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Well, I had tried to send you a really informative site "Jeep Adventures Under the Hood" that I had bookmarked. All the links no longer work:cry: Anyway the link I have for the FSM still worked so I downloaded the section of the carb to send to you, the full FSM is here...

Did you perform the steps for reassembly and adjustments similar to the FSM? Not 100% sure of your exact issue but the main metering jets may need some adjustments :shrug:

I was just rereading your post as I'm seriously considering doing this swap now. Since you've been running this for awhile I was wondering how you felt about the total package. Also, I noticed the complete drivetrain was shipped to you, did you send them your T/C for rebuild with the twin...

Something like this maybe? https://www.paperformance.com/120a-denso-jeep-self-exciting-2224se/?srsltid=AfmBOootUu9o6_hmUDr1cZKhxVYTcDvrgIcGCYIqqa7ViDUAZ7-Yp1sMm5c

I can't believe the underside of that. :oops:, (along with the rest of course.) You got a nice one there. 👍

Thanks Eric, I bet that brings back some old memories:thumbsup: I am going to do the same soon so this helps keeping me from searching... my real intention was getting you motivated to get back to your stroker swap. Thanks again.

Haha, I figured Raymond has enough going on right now, so it would be too much to ask him for. Also, I was hoping it would motivate Eric to get back on his stroker project. We know how he loves pics. :thumbsup: (I actually will be doing this whenever I have time to get to my long delayed swap.)

Can you do a "Raymond" post on the steps you go through to use these with the 4.0 block?

How about trying some high heat BBQ black paint to see if it helps conceal it? Doesn't appear like the exhaust is low just stands out against the black frame and rockers. :shrug:

My buddy did bodywork (with metal patches) and repainted mine with a "Jeep Green Metallic" single stage urethane. I was just admiring the metallic as the sun was shining on it in the garage. Not suggesting the green, just confirming that single stage urethane is available in metallic.

That's the first thought I had when seeing this, not that I understand all about 3D printing.

I had heard that plain colors were acrylic enamel but metallics were BC/CC :shrug:

Thanks. Yeah he's been a resource for a lot of good parts. Hopefully the new seal works out better. Sorry to mix posts... just went over your build post and kept saying to myself "yeah that's what I would want" (I'd love to hear about the Novak kit as well on the other post)

Just out of curiosity (and reference for future needs by others), do you know the brand/supplier of the existing one?

Here's an example of one. They have Postal specific front doors (notice the squared off top edge of window frame), rear door, among other things. They originally had spray foam lining in the interior that was for the Alaskan climate. https://www.cj-8.com/threads/alaskan-postal-hardtop.53785/...

Here's the one that is recommended: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FCD-D4001

Here's the post I remembered (#2333) https://www.cj-8.com/threads/another-scrambler-purchase-road-trip-update-body-on-frame-again.24692/page-117#post-474425 As was stated some cowl seals have issues for CJ's, @spankrjs has lots of experience with working on them.

I think you found the issue on the door gap. The four torx in the bracket slots are your windshield angle adjustment, the two lower knobs are for folding the windshield down. As Kim mentioned the cowl rubber may be too dense/thick. This is a common problem with aftermarket seals, I think Raymond...

I believe that the full soft top (Bestop) is designed for the full doors as the Scrambler was only available with full doors with the half top. Also, it appears that the top frame around your door opening in the first pic shows the full door/hard top shape.

Love it! That's kind of what I was seeing in the mockups, except it really needs an 8274 up front.