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I'm looking for a CJ jack. I have the mount. Got any or know of any?

I was going to take it on a road-trip to the desert for a few weeks.. now I'm afraid of the possibility of it failing completely while I'm on my trip! What do you folks think, take it, or don't risk it? Can I easily hotwire my own jeep of needed!?

BTW, mine starting acting this way after being stored in wet weather and not driven for many months. And, it is temperamental... I wonder if something might have gotten rusty by being not used for a year or so long...?

Crap, I hope it's not that! How long did it take for yours to get to the point of not working at all?

Thanks, I hope that's all it is!

Mines has suddenly gotten problematic, where I start to turn the key and suddenly it stick/stops and doesn't want to turn anymore and I have to jiggle it. This comes right at a time when I need to drive my Jeep daily for a few weeks. Anyone who has been through this... is this problem likely to...

I'm going for lightness, less weight. I hear that forged are "stronger and lighter" than cast, but everything I'm seeing online that fits a CJ is either cast or they don't say. Does anyone know of a forged aluminum CJ wheel? And if so, how much lighter are they really? a few pounds? And what...

My stock T5 seized up while going 70MPH (running 31" tires and 3:31 gears at the time). A scary experience for sure. I'd swap it out. And one thing I think I've learned from this thread and some experience, there's not much of a difference between 3.92 and 3.73, or between 3.92 and 4.10's. And...

BTW, where did you get the Klune V. Last time I looked, it appeared they were not available anymore...?

Interesing... I put in a twin stick also, but it still binds a lot..

I'm about to go for lowering gearing. I'm looking at these three options... The 4:1 D300 vs Klune vs Black Box. Something I want as part of this upgrade is smooth shifting in-out-out of low range. My current D300 (2.6:1) does not do that. It usually binds and is hard to shift out of Low Range...

Also, the AX-15 has been great with one small exception. It doesn't seem to synchro very well going into reverse, and I have to double clutch if I want to avoid grinding... Anyone else have this issue?

I put the AX-15 behind my 1983 258, and converted from stock mechanical linkage to hydrualic clutch (I recommend this upgrade as well). I couldn't get the right pushrod length with Novak's slave cylinder in the AX-15 bellhousing. They looked into it and said "no one as ever done this exact setup...

Thanks. When I drive mine, I like cruising at around 2200 at highway speeds. I noticed it can go a lot lower, like down to 1800, but for the health of the engine and optimum efficiency and mileage I want to run at peak torque. Some people go with lowest RPM's for better mileage, but I subscribe...

Yes, thank you. I get how the 258 uses it's bore/stroke geometry make good torque. The part I don't fully get is how a head/cam (probably mostly the cam) can also increase torque. My understanding is the the 4.0 cam is an improvement on the 258 cam. But in what way? In other words, what does the...

That's interesting that the 4.0 engine was less peppy. I've heard different opinions both ways.. What I'm trying to figure out is whether the torque curve for this hybrid engine is more like a 4.0, or more like a 258? (I've been assuming it's low end grunt is due to the 258 block geometry)

Nice, I might try that.

haha, yes.. Yes, I also have bedliner and it helps. What I've noticed is after years and years and thousands of miles (and getting older) I tend to drive cruise on the freeway at the bottom end of 5th gear, because it's quiter, but this is not the most efficient rpm. I wonder if there's a...

In my never ending mission to give my Scrambler more modern comforts... Is there a slick (easy) way to sound-proof the engine compartment / firewall to make the engine less noisy? (I already have a carpeted floor) thanks!

Hey engine guys! If a 258 peak torque is around 2100rpm, and a 4.0 is around 2800rpm, then what about: Hybrid engine: 4.0 Head, Cam and MPI conversion on top of 258 block (bored 0.030) the 1983 258 gets torquey due to it's crank and rod geometry the 1995 4.0 gets it from it's better head/cam...