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Would also agree on Odyssey. Only caveat being difficult to get a warranty replacement in a lot of places (you're not going to find one in a small town LPS).
I prefer hydraulic over mechanical for off road (less issue with frame flex messing up your clutch linkage geometry). I'd recommend using a bell with external slave for easier service/repair.
I'd also try to have them turned to even out the surface (or return them for another set - just on principal that they should be made right in the first place). Don't want any pulsing in the brakes.
Is the problem with just one drum or both (if just one you could swap them and see if the dragging occurs on the other side). A brake/machine shop should be able to test the drums for run out to see if they're warped (this would be unusual on new drums in my experience). Could also be that an...
Not familiar with that product, but the hose routing on a Scrambler is pretty twisted (I could see it easily forming a kink in the line). I'd probably opt to cut a shaped hose at a midpoint and install a short extension.
I was looking at something similar. I found some rear wiper blades (beam style) meant for a mini van that are about an inch longer than a CJ front wiper blade. I think if I weld/attach the appropriate end onto my wiper arm, they should mount right up.
Personally, I think this is just a way of selling more tires. A couple years ago I took my Scrambler in to have the tires rotated and balanced (part of the "lifetime" warranty service I had payed for) and they refused to do it because they were too old and "not safe". They still had a ton of...
I used to spin 2-piece shafts with 31" tires. I would replace them with 1-piece while you have it apart even if you're planning on stock size tires (or better yet go with full floating if you can).
Nope, just looked this a.m. and my statement was correct. Small tab on the bottom side of the t-handle knob and a slotted nut in the bezel. The light switch has the same nut in the bezel, but IIRC you have to remove the whole knob and shaft together.
Been a while but IIRC there is a tab on the bottom of the wiper knob that needs to be depressed to get the knob off, then there is like a small nut inside the bezel that needs to be unscrewed (there is a slot in the nut that is where you can use a small flat screwdriver to turn the nut)
I believe those meters are pegged when grounded. I'm assuming it stays the same whether the ignition is on or off? You could try removing the wire from sending unit and quickly touch it to ground and see if it knocks the needle loose, but I doubt it will help in this case since it's already...
Not vented unless the seal has failed. I had a problem with a clogged vent line years ago and the tank would build enough pressure to spray gasoline about 10 feet when removing the gas cap.
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