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Well, this has gone from bad to worse. The rear main seal will not budge. I have used 3 different punches, bent all 3. 1 brass punch, 1 aluminum punch, and 1 steel punch. All of that beating and banging, the seal will not move. I am going to have to pull the crank. So, in the next few weeks...

I was kind of thinking that. It is odd, the old turn signal switch activated both rear lights no matter which way I had the signal going but the front was the correct side. Now with this new switch, the rears work perfectly, but the driver front doesn't activate. I'm going to run a new ground...

Well, I have one last thing to try before I pull the bottom end apart to get it out. The tool should ship Monday and I’ll be able to try that next weekend. I did get the turn signals fixed. The rears flash correctly, but now the drivers front won’t flash, not even with the hazards on. 🫤 It...

I tried that, they are all quite loose. The upper seal is not moving, I have buggered it up so it is at the point it has to be done now. I ordered the tool, but I just need to wait for it. On to other projects. I still have to install my oil pressure gauge, my new clock spring/turn signal...

I think we can all relate to the love/hate relationships we have with our beloved Scramblers. I have been trying to get this 🤬🤬🤬🤬 rear main seal out. It. Is. Not. Moving. I have tried a brass punch, that got bent. I tried a steel punch, very carefully, and nothing. I have tried turning the...

In the immortal words of Randy Jackson. "That's a no from me, dawg."

They claim they are giving us what we want. I suggest they go back to the drawing board. A new Scrambler should be a 2 seater, 2 door, short bed, sold axles front and rear. I'm ok if it looks like the Wrangler/Gladiator. But to feel the need to throw a second seat in the back kind of takes from...

The first order of business when I first got the Jeep, back in July of 25, was to give her the once over and see what was wrong and what was right. For everything wrong, I looked for something right. 3 speed trans and D20 t-case (wrong), full steel body, bumper to bumper (right) I could go on...

Year: 81 Model: Base Tire size: 35X12.5X15 Build details: -Paint color Maroon -Speedhut gauges - Painless wiring harnes - A lot of blood sweat and tears. Thread link: https://www.cj-8.com/threads/project-rowena-81-renovation.53871/

I am calling this project a renovation, not a restoration. I have no plans to make Rowena a stock, factory original, nor a resto-mod build. She is going to be renovated to get her back to her potential so the wife and I can use the Jeep for our around town, and maybe some out of town adventures...

Yet another positive update on, what I have decided to call Project Rowena. The wife and I took her to an event at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway this weekend. It was my wife's birthday Sunday and she wanted to take the 8 for the adventure. She drove pretty smooth and other than the turn signal...

Not sure what the issue was. I took the volt meter and oil pressure gauges out of the equation (going to replace with speedhut to match the speedometer) then double checked my wiring, put a fresh fuse in, turned the key on and the speedometer powered right up! Plugged the temp harness in, no...

You would think living in Vegas would make me lucky, hell no. I got through the install of the new gauge, and I have to admit I don't know when this new problem arose. Now, whenever I turn the key on, the dash fuse pops. Every single time. It has to be either my oil pressure gauge, volt gauge...

Found a new issue when driving it the other day. When I would use the turn signal (I know, especially here in Las Vegas, foreign concept) it would blink 3 times max and then stay on. The relay would get super hot. So, as BigWalton suggested, add a ground. I installed a small ground busbar and...

Got it! I was chasing 2 problems. I looked at my fuel regulator and it was at 4psi! I don't remember turning it up that high, the damn carb only needs 2.5 to 3.5psi. I turned it down to 3psi, adjusted the distributor again, fired right up and stayed running, rough but running. While it was...

Personally, I like the way she looks with the 33's. Then again, I always did like plenty of room for articulation, even on my '95 YJ I had tires that I got told were "too small" lmao. I am thinking of going down to 33's just to get the 35's off of mine lol.

LIFE!!!!! Finally, I got life in the old 258 last night. I spent about an hour tinkering with the dizzy and got her running! Not drivable yet, as I am still a bit off and think I may be chasing a fuel issue at the same time. Not stressed about that, simple fuel system. I'll get to that this...

So close. It is timing, I am off in one direction or another. I just have to figure out which way to go, advance or retard the timing. I used brake cleaner as I didn't have a can of starting fluid handy, and she tried to start. Ran like crap when I finally got her to start over on her own. Once...

Ok, tested the coil, all good based on numbers from D.U.I. for the coil. I know that is good. Fresh plugs, gapped at .44. Tried starting it, she actually stumbled a little bit but still didn't catch. So I am thinking that I might be a few degrees out. Not sure where else to go with it though...

It has the coil bolted to the top. I guess that will be my next step to see what I need to do to test that. It is being fickle if it is bad since I am getting spark. If that is bad, I need to figure out where to get a replacement. If I have to go through D.U.I. or if I can get it from a parts house.