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1981 CJ8 4.2L EGR vacuume line

I

Ifster

Member
City
White Rock
State
NM
Hi,
I'm starting work on my Scramble again, after parking it for the last 6 months. It had been sitting for about 20 years before I got it.
Last time I got it running and did a lot of other work to try and make it driveable.
I had put on one of those cheap knock off carbs on it, which is enough to make it run.

I just did a smoke test and found a leak at the EGR valve, I have a new EGR valve on the way.
I could do the Webber conversion, but I'm thinking there are other issues that should get addressed first and vacuum leaks is one of them.
Currently there are no vacuum lines attached to the temperature switch on the intake. I doubt if my vacuum switch is any good, the only replacement I found is the SMP 2202-05061485, which has 3 ports, not 5 like what's there now.
Further smoke testing and a properly connected EGR is about all I'm wanting to try before going to the Webber conversion, or the 4.0L head and fuel injection swap. I prefer to leave it carburated.
I figure the Webber is still going to need to have the vacuum leaks fixed anyway.
So, how should I connect the vacuum to the new EGR?
This is the the port switch I found, but have not purchased it yet.
Thanks again.

1979-1986 Jeep CJ7 Ported Vacuum Switch - Standard Motor Products PVS14 - PartsGeek.com

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It seems the 5 port PVS61 became very expensive and is now obsolete.
But I did come across this that may be of help...


The original 5-port layout uses internal blocks to split signals, but they can be combined externally using inline plastic vacuum T-fittings.

The 2-Port Switch Setup

Parts Needed

You can skip the complex plumbing of multiple switches, you can restore full functionality to your EGR and charcoal canister using highly available, inexpensive parts:

2-Port Thermal Vacuum Switch (CTO): Order a Standard Motor Products PVS2 Ported Vacuum Switch or use your existing factory 2-port valve if it is functional.
T-Fitting: Pick up a standard 3/16" plastic vacuum T-fitting from any local auto parts store.

Simple Routing Step-by-Step
Connect a 3/16" vacuum line from your throttle body's Ported Vacuum Source port to the bottom port of your 2-port switch.
Connect a line from the top port of your 2-port switch to the bottom branch of your plastic T-fitting.
Attach one top split of the "T" directly to your EGR Valve diaphragm
Attach the final split of the "T" directly to the Canister Purge Signal port on your charcoal canister .
This will allow the engine to block vacuum when cold and simultaneously trigger both critical components once the engine warms up to operating temperature.

Anyway, HTH
 
I left the canister out of the setup when I put in the new fuel tank. I did notice that there is a port to hook it to the tank. And the canister is not hooked to anything by the engine.
How important is the canister to the setup? I haven't driven it on the road yet, but I have noticed the fuel tank build pressure just from idling in the driveway. Is that from the canister not being hooked up?
 
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