• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

New guy with and interesting find (Overlander Build)

I've now cleaned the tank and installed the new fuel pickup/sending unit. I did the motor mods yesterday and it made a huge difference in how it drives. I think installing the 3200 RPM spring makes the motor perform more like a vehicle motor instead of an industrial application. So now my head scratching problem:

From the beginning the Jeep has been a handful to drive. It wanders all over the road causing me to have to constantly correct the steering heel left and right. I thought it was due to the springs sagging and age. It now has all new springs and bushings and is sitting nice and level and still wanders. It really became evident when I got it up to highway speeds. It was all I could do to keep it from flipping. I seriously had to fight the wheel left and right to get it back under control. Very scary moment. So took it back to the shop and discovered both front hubs had some excessive play in them. We adjusted them as well as the steering box. Toe was good but we added a touch more to see f that helped. All the mentioned adjustments made huge improvements but still the driving issues remain especially on a rough road. We checked the caster and there is only 3 degrees up front so my next course of action is to add 4 degrees of caster to the front and see what happens. One more symptom is when you make a turn the wheel will not center itself.

thoughts???
 
....One more symptom is when you make a turn the wheel will not center itself.

thoughts???

That is also caused by too little caster.

Also, very nice build. :thumbsup:
Nice to hear you're making progress.
 
4 degree shims should be good. Make sure you get the steel ones. Aluminum ones tend to crack and fall out. Very bad. 7degrees is about right, but you might even want to look at 6 degree shims.

The other option is to shorten shackles by re-drilling.

I had this issue with my CJ when I built it and it is very scary. 2 degrees the right way can make a lot of difference.


Carl
 
Keep in mind that when you add tapered shims you will change the angle of your drive shaft with your differential and you may get a bad vibration.
 
Keep in mind that when you add tapered shims you will change the angle of your drive shaft with your differential and you may get a bad vibration.

Fortunately I haven't had a front drive shaft built yet. Will have Oliver's Drive shaft make me a custom piece.
 
Keep in mind that when you add tapered shims you will change the angle of your drive shaft with your differential and you may get a bad vibration.

But you're trying to put the front axle back to factory sspecs or close to, so that shouldn't be a problem


 
I did pretty much the same thing with no problems with 2 degree shims.
 
Back
Top