Stuck brake bleeder help

[barrys]

Changed the manual master cylinder on my '86 CJ7. All the brake bleeders are stuck. With seals in the wheel cylinders and calipers, I am leary about using much heat.
Any tricks?
I thought about using a miniductor to heat the bleeder up and hitting them with a variety of areasols, wd40, pb blaster, areokroil, and a few more I have. Hoping the hot bleeder and rapid cool down might shock the rust hold lose.
Also have a tool made for atuck bleeders on its way. A socket you turn with a wrench while tapping it with a hammer.

Again, I am open to any idea or tricks. "Double clutching" the brake pedal everytime is no good. Thanks

 

[jammer1]

Use heat! I use a maps propane torch. Heat the base (wheel cyl. where screw goes into). I've done it a dozen times and never lost a wheel cyl. or caliper. Remember these parts are made to take reasonable heat (from braking). Just heat enough to pop loose, use a 6 sided socket. I use areokroil penetrating oil (best penetrating oil you can get). Remember the wheel cyl and caliper act like heat sinks, can take a lot of heat before the heat up the seals.

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

We have used the 12 volt battery with jumper cables to remove broken head bolts.
Not sure why it wouldn't work on a brake a caliper bleeder.

 

[sdsupilot]

I went through this with a friend last spring. We eventually got them out and replaced them ($5 each bleeder screw). After a couple weeks both rear wheel cylinders started to leak. In the end he ended up buying reman calipers (less than $20 a piece) and reman wheel cylinders ($8). It is more work, but also gives you a chance to see what else needs replaced.

 

[jammer1]

I wasn't thinking when I responded this morning, If you only replaced the M/C, and the fluid and lines are ok, you can put the M/C on and reconnect the brake lines. Have someone pump the brake, hold down and bleed at the M/C lines. You only loose about a inch or less of fluid it you keep the lines up. The air will travel up and out the cracking of the brake line nut. You should get all or almost all of the air out. If a little soft tap the brake lines below the M/C with a wrench or screw driver (kinda like a drum) this will pop the air bubble that may be sticking to the inside of the line. Then it will float to the joint and be able to be bleed out of the system. If this fails and you can loosen the brake lines where it goes into the proportionate valve, you can bleed it their. Most cases a mechanic will bleed it at the M/C or the proportionate valve (unless a leak down line, replacing a cylinder or flushing out fluid).

 

[californiajeeping]

Mine were stuck. Even with heat and trying an impact the caliper bleeds snapped flush with the caliper. Tried extracting to no luck. After hours of screwing around I got a set of calipers from oreileys for 50$ and threw them on in 15 minutes ?

Thn I got some speed bleeders to make it faster for next time.

 

[Spieg]

On the really stubborn ones I use heat and ice. Heat the housing (a heat gun will do the trick without fear of starting a fire) and then use dry ice on the fitting (cold will contract the metal just like heat will expand the metal).