Retitled: 83 Scrambler resto-mod finally gaining momentum

[kctango]

I'm wondering how safe it is to bend the hard part of my original CJ high-pressure line to fix this routing problem. You can see the current routing of the line with the white arrows. I'm trying to get it above/around the lower radiator hose and the steering shaft:

I rebent my original power stering HP line similiar to the photos attached

 

[Bushmaster6]

Thanks Keith. Some of he metal portions on those look quite long (understand its not yours). Did you heat them or do anything special to protect them?

 

[kctango]

I didnt heat it,
1. I took original hose still connected to the gearbox and put new o-ring on it the inserted it into power steering pump. It was tight fitting alot of tension on the hose.
2. Slowly started using my tube bender and hands bent the tube around the pump until the tension was off the hose. After that I placed my fender back on to check for clearance and it was good. bent the lowerup a little for added slack. Worked like a charm. The hardest part was getting a wrench on the fitting.
I'll get a picture when I get home and post.

by the way love the Ft Stewart address in the picture.

 

[Bushmaster6]

by the way love the Ft Stewart address in the picture.

Old TAT box from a KFOR rotation in 2001

 

[bigwalton]

I didn't heat mine either to bend, but I tried to keep my new bends away from the existing bends to try to minimize the chance of kinking the tube. Don't think I had to do much. Of course mine were different hoses for the RHD and bent entirely differently, but same principle.

 

[Bushmaster6]

Dropped mine off At a local fab shop today. Going to cost me a bit extra but sounds like I'm getting a one-off solution (and time back). Well see how it looks when I pick it up tomorrow

 

[Bushmaster6]

been searching the net for this for a few hours with no luck...

I still have the swapped starter question... I'm using the CJ flywheel and everything that's behind it (clutch, trans, etc). The CJ starter is mounted. The YJ starter relay provides power out via 14G brown wire to the YJ starter solenoid, switching on the hot power from the heavy gauge red supply wire. The YJ starter solenoid is at (or in?) the starter. (see yellow arrows pointing to that routing in the YJ wiring diagram below).

The CJ starter does not have its own solenoid, simply the tab with 3/8" bolt that you secure the red heavy guage wire to. I think the solenoid function was handled at the CJ fender-mounted starter solenoid pre-swap.

Anyone know how I connect the power out from the YJ starter relay as there is no more solenoid?

 

[FLCJ8]

been searching the net for this for a few hours with no luck...

I still have the swapped starter question... I'm using the CJ flywheel and everything that's behind it (clutch, trans, etc). The CJ starter is mounted. The YJ starter relay provides power out via 14G brown wire to the YJ starter solenoid, switching on the hot power from the heavy gauge red supply wire. The YJ starter solenoid is at (or in?) the starter. (see yellow arrows pointing to that routing in the YJ wiring diagram below).

The CJ starter does not have its own solenoid, simply the tab with 3/8" bolt that you secure the red heavy guage wire to. I think the solenoid function was handled at the CJ fender-mounted starter solenoid pre-swap.

Anyone know how I connect the power out from the YJ starter relay as there is no more solenoid?

Substitute your CJ fender mounted solenoid for the "engine starter motor" in your drawing.
You are supplying power to actuate the solenoid from the brown 14 gauge in the drawing. The original wiring from the solenoid to the CJ starter would be unchanged.
Haven't had a chance to check your thread to see if you need to bypass a sensor for "neutral" to start. (not sure what trans the YJ had and what you are going with)

 

[Bushmaster6]

I was thinking along those lines, but I'd never seen a 4.0 swap write up address use of the CJ solenoid.

So run the YJ start relay to the "s" terminal on the CJ solenoid and route the starter power supply through it.

The donor trans was TF auto.

 

[bigwalton]

Correct.

The only issue is whether you use a CJ solenoid for an auto or manual. The auto solenoid has a terminal on the bottom that's looking for a ground from the neutral safety switch, so if you want that function, you have to figure out a connection to the NSS. Can't recall which tranny you're adding. If that's the solenoid you have and you just want to bypass it, simply ground that lower terminal.

If you don't want to bother with that at all, just use a manual solenoid with no bottom terminal.


Sent from my iPad HD

 

[Bushmaster6]

Thanks guys. Not sure why I haven't seen this addressed before, maybe it's intuitive to everyone but me. Pretty sure I still have my I'd CJ solenoid in the parts pile... Have to look and see if I kept the long positive lead from it. Trans I'm using is the original T5, which I had rebuilt.

 

[bigwalton]

I'd say go with new for both the solenoid and cable, pretty cheap and good insurance over using something old. Just make sure not to get an auto version.


Sent from my iPad HD

 

[Bushmaster6]

Today's progress:

- got the PS feed/return lines mounted... fab shop did a nice job on them (craftsmanship wise) but they ended up being a bit longer than I'd hoped.. not sure it'll be a problem, I'll deal with it if so.
- remounted the CJ solenoid and routed the start signal to the "S" terminal from the YJ starter relay output
- replaced teh solenoid to starter cable with a new 4G wire.. oddly the part is a black cable, I figured it would be red..
- bulkhead mounted the YJ MAF sensor, it still needs a vacuum line
- (loosely) wired the E2000 power and ground: I'm simply running the wire under the truck until I get a test fire, then I'll go back and police up the routing and connections once I confirm it works
- took care of the PDC to firewall ground and the bulkhead to connector ground
- traced and connected the CJ oil pressure signal wire.. will eventually look to get the "Y" adapeter at the oil filter to send both CJ/YJ signals
- pulled the distributor and re-primed the engine/oil pump using a cordless drill and an old screwdriver shaft.. heard oil trickling down the inside of the motor and stuck my finger in teh valve cover fill port and found nice clean new oil in the one rocker arm that I could reach

 

[Bushmaster6]

I'm dangerously close to my first test-fire. Still to do before that:

- need a battery
- ground the park-neutral sense wire from port 30 at the PCM. Is this as simple as it sounds? Do I simply trace that wire from pin 30 at the PCM and ground it to close that switch? I'm thinking of running it to a switch in the cab and using it for theft deterrent....
- wire the CPS
- wire the VSS
- drop the fuel tank and wire the fuel sending unit/signal (want to do this before I get fuel in the tank)
- double check all fluids in the entire drivetrain
- check my grounds
- not sure what else... I though about hooking up a battery charger on a 2A draw and make sure nothing smoked or popped, but not sure this gives me the same effect as having the battery connected..
- get some gas in it

 

[Bushmaster6]

fuel delivery for the first time..

1. when I disassembled the YJ I pulled the fuel rail quick disconnects (one supply, one return), and when I reinstalled them... they click right back on but they feel loose (slide back and forth about 1/4 inch or less on the fuel rail ports).. considering this is high pressure fuel delivery, I'm wary that something is wrong before I pressurize these lines.. is there some part of the quick disconnect that must be replaced when you pull them (ie: an o-ring)?

2. as I'm about the pump fuel from a tank that's been empty through fuel lines that have been empty.. is there something I should do to (a) filter the initial supply of fuel (outside of the 2x inline filters I have) (b) fill or pressurize the lines before I start cranking the motor over?

 

[Bushmaster6]

I'm dangerously close to my first test-fire. Still to do before that:

- need a battery
- ground the park-neutral sense wire from port 30 at the PCM. Is this as simple as it sounds? Do I simply trace that wire from pin 30 at the PCM and ground it to close that switch? I'm thinking of running it to a switch in the cab and using it for theft deterrent....
- wire the CPS
- wire the VSS
- drop the fuel tank and wire the fuel sending unit/signal (want to do this before I get fuel in the tank)
- double check all fluids in the entire drivetrain
- check my grounds
- not sure what else... I though about hooking up a battery charger on a 2A draw and make sure nothing smoked or popped, but not sure this gives me the same effect as having the battery connected..
- get some gas in it

Well, I got all of the above done today, with the exception of putting fuel in it. After about 9 hours today I went for the big moment and... nothing. Morale killer after a long day.

Not really, truly, nothing. What did happen:
I have power to the dash/lights, so I think my power supply is good.
I can hear the E2000 fuel pump kick on with the ignition turned to power. It kicks on for about 1-2 seconds.
I do get a "click" sound when I turn to start. Have not isolated that yet (waiting on kids to go to bed so I can have wife turn key).

I pulled my Toyota around and applied jumper cables just to isolate that it wasn't a bad battery: no change.
I switched the heavy gauge in/out at the CJ starter solenoid (diagrams seem to differ about which side is supply in vs out): no change.

This is my #1 nightmare. It took me forever to get what I think are the right splices/connections made. Now I'm beginning the chase of a million possibile errors.

Time for a beer...

and I thought I had a good omen on a Wallyworld run today:

 

[FLCJ8]

Well, I got all of the above done today, with the exception of putting fuel in it. After about 9 hours today I went for the big moment and... nothing. Morale killer after a long day.

Not really, truly, nothing. What did happen:
I have power to the dash/lights, so I think my power supply is good.
I can hear the E2000 fuel pump kick on with the ignition turned to power. It kicks on for about 1-2 seconds.
I do get a "click" sound when I turn to start. Have not isolated that yet (waiting on kids to go to bed so I can have wife turn key).

I pulled my Toyota around and applied jumper cables just to isolate that it wasn't a bad battery: no change.
I switched the heavy gauge in/out at the CJ starter solenoid (diagrams seem to differ about which side is supply in vs out): no change.

This is my #1 nightmare. It took me forever to get what I think are the right splices/connections made. Now I'm beginning the chase of a million possibile errors.

Time for a beer...

This should be simple to troubleshoot with a test light and a second set of hands.
When you turn the key to start you should have power to terminal 26 on the YJ "engine starter motor relay" in your diagram. Terminal 30 needs to be connected to ground, (either through an anti-theft switch or directly to ground). The relay should actuate and send power to the brown 14 gauge going to your fender mounted CJ relay (A test light will confirm this). The relay needs to be well grounded. This relay should actuate if the 14 gauge is receiving power from the YJ relay. If it does not, (you should be able to tell by the sound of the relay closing and/or confirming that power is now coming out of the large gauge wire going to the starter motor. If you do not get power out of the CJ relay confirm that power is being supplied to the post from the battery.
If you do have power to the relay from the battery and power to the relay from the YJ relay(brown 14 gauge) and no power out to the starter then confirm that the CJ relay does not have a terminal for a NSS for an auto trans as BW mentioned. If it does not and you confirm that the test light reads voltage from the brown 14 gauge to the mounting bracket of the fender mounted relay then the relay is bad. If you have power out from the relay to the starter cable then you have problems with the starter. Just a note-the starter needs a good ground as well which means the engine should have a ground strap from the block to the frame and/or battery ground post.

 

[Bushmaster6]

wife turned the ignition while I listened at the engine bay.. with the "start" signal, the "TCC" relay is activiating. This is a firewall mounted relay from part of the YJ's automatic trans control...

from the YJ FSM:
The TCC solenoid is only used on three-speed automatic transmissions. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) operates the TCC solenoid by energizing the TCC relay. Circuit G50 from fuse 5 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) supplies voltage to the coil side of the
TCC relay. When the PCM provides a ground path on circuit K54, the relay contacts close. When the relay contacts close, they connect circuit
A14 from fuse 1 in the PDC with circuit T22. Circuit T22 supplies battery voltage to the case grounded TCC solenoid. Circuit K54 connects to PCM cavity 54.

 

[Bushmaster6]

just re-read the auto trans portion of the FSM.. I had not grounded the starter relay.. went out and did a quickie ground and starter turned over right away..

now for some fuel....

 

[Bushmaster6]

for the want of a....

I had to drop the tank today to wire the fuel sending unit.. when putting the (original) hoses back on, which was a tough fight, I think I put some extra cracks in what were already pretty dry-rotted rubber..

poured the first ounce of gas down the filler neck and it immediately leaked (heavily) onto the floor... :banghead