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Hood Louver

Manhattan said:
Louvers, etc. should be used for dissipating heat on the trail... not the road. If your engine's running hot at 40+ mph, you've got "internal" (timing, radiator, flow) issues.
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How do you identify which of these 3 you have?
 
Fine around town, and on the trail. Builds heat on hwy.
 
dmock said:
Fine around town, and on the trail. Builds heat on hwy.
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HMMMM To me, that statement rules out some things like a head gasket leak, a stopped up radiator, a poorly performing water pump or oil pump, or a poor fan.

It would be REALLY strange, but is it possible there's something wrong with the higher gear on your transmission that's causing a huge amount of resistance?

I'm not familiar with the timing or vacuum advance on that engine, but I have heard of people having similar issues where the timing would advance too much and the engine would end up fighting itself for more power. Or, do you have some kind of a fuel injected version?

One thing you could try (although I think it's illegal) - pull your entire hood off and drive down the interstate. It's just a few bolts and won't hurt anything if you just take a short trip. If you see it still overheating, then you'll know that louvres won't help you.
 
Thanks for the suggestion DirtyB.

About 2100 Mysunshine.
 
2100 rpm isn't much. I'd be checking the radiator condition along with the tune. As long as all of the incoming air HAS to go thru the radiator and not around it in any way, it should cool. With mine at 3100rpm on the highway, it'll build heat to 205 degrees out here with the sbc.
 
Could your carb be running lean, that would creat additional heat (right after you get off the highway, check you're plugs to see if their bone white). Advanced timing could cause this also. You're electric fans, can they be restrictive at freeway speed. This would cut down the air flow through the radiator (the advantage of having a mechanical clutch fan).
 
jammer1 said:
Could your carb be running lean, that would creat additional heat (right after you get off the highway, check you're plugs to see if their bone white). Advanced timing could cause this also. You're electric fans, can they be restrictive at freeway speed. This would cut down the air flow through the radiator (the advantage of having a mechanical clutch fan).
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Howell FI. Reflashed for my 360 with chev 350 injectors. I think the fan rating is something like 4000+ CFM. I am still thinking it is airflow through the engine compartment or timing. Once I hit a certain speed airflow stops???

Yesterday I drove to work. On the way home @75 degrees highway temp climbed to about 216 degrees. Exited the highway temp started back down. Pulled in my driveway, and let it idle and she went down to 188 degrees. I have an accurate Dakota Digital gauge and sender, and a 160 thermostat.

Weird!
 
Take the winch off of the Jeep and run it too. I'll bet that will shave off quite a bit of the temperature too.
 
mysunnshine said:
Take the winch off of the Jeep and run it too. I'll bet that will shave off quite a bit of the temperature too.
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How about testing it by driving with the hood off. If it still overheats, then the louvres would not help is my guess. ;)

If that is the case I would think radiator.


Dain
 
mysunnshine said:
How old is the radiator?
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New three row copper core. Winch doesn't make much difference. Just got home from Barrett Jackson. Same scenario heated up on the 101. (Hwy)...This has to be air flow related. Think I'll try going hood less next.

Thanks all for the suggestions!!!!!!
 
Look forward to what you find out. Barrett Jackson auction way cool, those are never boring.

Sent from my bla bla phone zero2wow ;-)
 
If not running lean, check the timing. If base timing is ok, try disconnecting the vacuume advance. That would leave mechanical and centrifugal advance. Now take her on the freeway and check the temp. You have a new radiator, so the next question is did you replace the lower hose. If it doesn't have a spring in it, could it be collapsing from the suction of the pump. Try squeezing the hose to see how stiff it is (sounds silly but it has happened before).
 
jammer1 said:
If not running lean, check the timing. If base timing is ok, try disconnecting the vacuume advance. That would leave mechanical and centrifugal advance. Now take her on the freeway and check the temp. You have a new radiator, so the next question is did you replace the lower hose. If it doesn't have a spring in it, could it be collapsing from the suction of the pump. Try squeezing the hose to see how stiff it is (sounds silly but it has happened before).
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Jammer1 I did replace the lower hose and installed an internal spring. I plan on retarding the timing just a bit more today and I'll run it with vacuum advance disconnected and then connected to see if it helps. Thanks for the suggestions!
 
When my Grand Wagoneer - with a new 360, radiator, ignition - everything - did this, I took it to a Jeep dealer (was out of town and had to try) and they were useless. I tried another local mechanic - nothin. Then another. The 4th mechanic - AJ at AutoWorks in Atlanta - said it has to be the timing. I said it's be set, checked and rechecked. He said they were probably only looking at the ___ timing, not the ___ timing. I wish I remember what he was referring to exactly - guessing it's what Jammer's explaining.

AJ dialed in the ___ timing and it never ran over 190 again.
 
I think the Car Talk guts were talking about the two different timings last week. I can't remember either.


Dain
 
mysunnshine said:
There is base, mechanical, vacuum, and total timing.
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Errick,

Do you guys stock bulk high quality radiator hose?

My upper hose was a new factory style hose, but I had to cut to install my electric fan temp sensor adaptor (like a 6 in tube with a threaded nipple). This forces that hose a bit out of place where it's pinched. I'm not too concerned as it's on the pressure, not suction side. None of my local blue, green or red stores carries any of the high quality steel spring reinforced hose that you cut to length and bend.
 
Build it out of u bends. BTW, your sender should not be in the upper hose. It should be in the head or intake for it to read correctly. uploadfromtaptalk1390152906896.jpg
 
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