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Needing direction...

Polarfire said:
Killer deal for that nice of a tank with the skid and strap! I'd pull the sending unit just to be sure it is ok.
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Yep, you got a deal on that tank.

Most floor pan replacements I've seen have been overlapped with seam sealer. Butt weld would be prettier for sure. I'm teaching myself to weld with a cheap wire welder so I'm just trying to watch what everyone else is doing before I try doing anything with mine.
 
Picked up my frame and roll bar today from a local machine shop that blasted it for me.

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They charged me $266, I figure I can't do any better than that. Especially considering the gallon of POR15 I bought last night cost $185. They did not have any prepping agent so I think I'll just go directly with the POR15. I was ready to start painting it tonight but decided to buy some of Eastwood's internal frame coat so as soon as that ships things will start happening.

4X4Land has my lift kit in and should have my axels built this week. [emoji482][emoji482]
 
cattleman1977 said:
Picked up my frame and roll bar today from a local machine shop that blasted it for me.

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They charged me $266, I figure I can't do any better than that. Especially considering the gallon of POR15 I bought last night cost $185. They did not have any prepping agent so I think I'll just go directly with the POR15. I was ready to start painting it tonight but decided to buy some of Eastwood's internal frame coat so as soon as that ships things will start happening.

4X4Land has my lift kit in and should have my axels built this week. [emoji482][emoji482]
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Nice progress!


 
So while I wait for frame paint to arrive I thought I'd start cleaning up the power train I bought to replace the old one.

Here is what I got for $300. Cj7 wiring harness that appears to be very reusable:
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Rebuilt 258 with supposedly 5000-10000 miles on it, relatively new Holley carb, T5 transmission, and a Dana 300.
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I wanted to troubleshoot everything before pressure washing and disassembly. Obviously, everything is filthy. Head gasket is clearly leaking but most of the bolts are loose. I'm not too worried about the transmission as I'm going to rebuild my T176. TC is caked with oil as well but this one shifts considerably better than the one that came out of mine.

As for the accuracy of the mileage estimate, who knows but I know the guy who installed it so I don't think that's too far off. Going to clean it all up and perhaps I'll know more after.
 
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Dang, that thing looks good.

Cheap ignition upgrade.

Distributor cap, base, and rotor from an 83ish Ford with 300 6 cylinder bolts right in place, give you a bigger cap, and is better at keeping water out of the distributor. The Ford cap has male terminals on top so you'll need new wires too (I got V8 wires for an 83 F150 because they're the same price and I got two extra wires). Add either a coil from the same Ford truck OR get an MSD Blaster if you want to stick with the cannister coil.

With the hotter spark you need the bigger cap to avoid crossfiring, so thus the Ford cap, base, and rotor.

Used to be called the TFI upgrade. Also known as "teamrush" Uses off the shelf components, and gives a little better spark. If you're gonna replace the wires and rotor anyway might as well do the slight upgrade.
 
wm69 said:
Dang, that thing looks good.

Cheap ignition upgrade.

Distributor cap, base, and rotor from an 83ish Ford with 300 6 cylinder bolts right in place, give you a bigger cap, and is better at keeping water out of the distributor. The Ford cap has male terminals on top so you'll need new wires too (I got V8 wires for an 83 F150 because they're the same price and I got two extra wires). Add either a coil from the same Ford truck OR get an MSD Blaster if you want to stick with the cannister coil.

With the hotter spark you need the bigger cap to avoid crossfiring, so thus the Ford cap, base, and rotor.

Used to be called the TFI upgrade. Also known as "teamrush" Uses off the shelf components, and gives a little better spark. If you're gonna replace the wires and rotor anyway might as well do the slight upgrade.
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Thanks! What will this upgrade gain? More efficient ignition/mileage? I was thinking about upgrading to a DUI. What are the pros/cons to either?
 
I was waiting to paint my frame until I could paint the internal frame. However, I noticed this morning it was showing very light rust where we touched it to unload it off the trailer.
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So I went ahead and put a coat of POR15 on. Once the Eastwood's shows up I'll use it and then do a couple more coats of the POR15. The first coat took about an hour and I only used about the top inch out of a gallon pail. I clearly bought to much. A couple quarts probably will be enough for three coats.
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It is awesome to see progress in the rebuild direction as opposed to the tear down!
 
Looks great. I used the eastwoods for the inside of the frame. And now I have it on my door panels and windows (and the walls) where the hose popped out of the frame holes and sprayed the garage. Oops.
 
Just wait until the top coat goes on. Then you'll just stand back with a beer and go "mmmmmmmmmmmm"

I put DUI on my Renegade and I'm a fan. Cold starts super quick and in my opinion really makes a difference. When I put it on I was out the back roads doing 0-60 trials with my phone and it was chirping 33s changing up to third.
 
gazzo said:
Just wait until the top coat goes on. Then you'll just stand back with a beer and go "mmmmmmmmmmmm"

I put DUI on my Renegade and I'm a fan. Cold starts super quick and in my opinion really makes a difference. When I put it on I was out the back roads doing 0-60 trials with my phone and it was chirping 33s changing up to third.
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That's what I'm after![emoji106]
 
cattleman1977 said:
Thanks! What will this upgrade gain? More efficient ignition/mileage? I was thinking about upgrading to a DUI. What are the pros/cons to either?
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Easier starting, better response, more power, etc etc. Basically all these ignition systems give you a hotter spark for more thorough burn.

I had a Jacob's ignition on my tan CJ for awhile. At the time it was THE ignition system, and was quite a lot of $$$ when I bought it in the 90's. Tried the TFI/ Teamrush on another CJ, and couldn't tell any difference in the two.

The biggest benefit, IMHO, of the Teamrush/ TFI over an HEI, DUI, or MSD igntion is while all will give you a performance boost, you can easily get off the shelf replacement components on the Teamrush at any autoparts store. It's under $100 for everything too.
 
Looking great. Did the Eastwood internal on the last CJ7 frame I was working on. Tape as many holes as you can on the outside of the frame because that stuff will spray everywhere, but seems to be good stuff.
 
Picked up my tub and fenders from the guy doing the body work this evening. For the most part they did alright but there are a couple things I think could've been done better.[emoji35]

The floor pans need to be tacked down more and seams smoothed a bit before seam sealer.
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Not sure why they didn't bother tacking down corner.
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I can fix most everything I feel they didn't finish. I won't know if I'm satisfied or not until I get the bill.

I hauled it straight to the guys that are going to blast it for me. They only have sand but think they can do most everything except possibly the hood. These guys do a lot of machine work for me and their work is always excellent and affordable. If I had known they'd do body work I would have had them do everything to begin with. However, they are going to fix any problems that blasting reveals and shine up the work done already.

All in all, it's great to be making progress!
 
Always glad to see forward momentum! However, that bodywork isn't even 1/2 done in my book and I'm no pro! Those tack welds should be dotting the entire edge of those panels! Every edge that isn't tacked is just a place for rust to start!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A
 
The way I'm reading it is that he has retrieved it from shop "A" who flaked and is now taking it to shop "B" for blasting and to re-work what has already been attempted. Correct? Bring it my way, I'm going to need another 2 years to kill! Looks like a good starting position. You'll be surprised what a thorough blasting will reveal.
 
I'm no blasting expert, but I don't think sand-blast is good. I've heard it can heat up the panels and warp them. I know you can get soda done in Topeka, pretty sure there is even a mobile guy there. Someone who knows more should chime in....I may be wrong.


 
mhinchliffe said:
The way I'm reading it is that he has retrieved it from shop "A" who flaked and is now taking it to shop "B" for blasting and to re-work what has already been attempted. Correct? Bring it my way, I'm going to need another 2 years to kill! Looks like a good starting position. You'll be surprised what a thorough blasting will reveal.
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Correct.
 
tower210 said:
I'm no blasting expert, but I don't think sand-blast is good. I've heard it can heat up the panels and warp them. I know you can get soda done in Topeka, pretty sure there is even a mobile guy there. Someone who knows more should chime in....I may be wrong.
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Sand can overheat panels and warp them. However, I've done a lot of business with this family over the last nine years and everything they do turns out great and I trust them. The dad has a fully restored '37 Chevy that he did himself even fabricating much of the sheet metal from scratch. If they run into problems they will stop and we will regroup. That said, if it doesn't work I might want the name of the outfit in Topeka. Not many options around here.
 
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