Adventures with Peggy's jeep.
- Thread starter sdsupilot
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sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
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I just bought some cheap floor pans off Amazon. I think they were only about $70 for the pair. They had the bends and were a descent fit on the tub side. The transmission side of the pans were missing the "bulge" where the drivers right foot, and passengers left foot sit. This required a bit more fabrication to correct. I know classic and some others likely make better pans. These work for me, but i've done a fair amount of fabrication. However, it likely took me much longer to use the cheaper pans than it would have with better ones.
I didn't use the entire pan. These pans were made to go into the factory pinch weld at the firewall. I only replaced about halfway up the pan (as far as I needed to go). These pans appear to be bent just using a simple break. Where 2 bends met, there was a cut. So you also need to line the pan up and weld that seam. I also ground the backside so there wasn't any extra metal. For the cost though, these pans were fine for me. They also seem sturdy enough.
I used 20 ga steel for the rest of the patches in the body. Some folks use 18, but 20 seems to match the thickness of the factory metal and is easier to form if you need to make any bends.
Disclaimer I should have made with the front fender patching post... My front fenders were galvanized (I dont know if all are). Welding galvanized steel is bad for you. When I did it, I had good airflow through my garage, and made sure to stay out of the smoke plume. Breathing those fumes can make you very sick, so be careful!
I didn't use the entire pan. These pans were made to go into the factory pinch weld at the firewall. I only replaced about halfway up the pan (as far as I needed to go). These pans appear to be bent just using a simple break. Where 2 bends met, there was a cut. So you also need to line the pan up and weld that seam. I also ground the backside so there wasn't any extra metal. For the cost though, these pans were fine for me. They also seem sturdy enough.
I used 20 ga steel for the rest of the patches in the body. Some folks use 18, but 20 seems to match the thickness of the factory metal and is easier to form if you need to make any bends.
Disclaimer I should have made with the front fender patching post... My front fenders were galvanized (I dont know if all are). Welding galvanized steel is bad for you. When I did it, I had good airflow through my garage, and made sure to stay out of the smoke plume. Breathing those fumes can make you very sick, so be careful!
sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
One thing I've noticed lately is that Peg sits a fair amount lower in the front than back. It was originally a 4 cyl jeep, so I don't know if they were softer than 6 cyl springs.
I don't really want to use a shackle lift. Does anyone know of an add a leaf kit for the front of a CJ?
I don't really want to use a shackle lift. Does anyone know of an add a leaf kit for the front of a CJ?
sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
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Did some work to Peg this past weekend. Sorry, no pictures. Its been leaving puddles of TC oil everywhere we park it for the past while. The front output seal of the Dana 300 apparently decided that it didn't want to hold back the oil anymore. After looking i decided it would be easier to drop the trans/TC skid plate to change the seal rather than leave it in place.
I dropped the front drive shaft, then jacked the trans with a floor jack. I put a jack stand under the rear output of the TC. I then removed the 6 bolts holding the skid in place, then removed the 3 trans/TC bolts for the mounts. Once everything was out of the way I locked the jeep in 4 low, 1st gear then used my impact wrench to remove the nut holding the output yoke in place.
You will need a puller to remove the front output yoke. I went to advance auto and rented their steering wheel puller. It works perfect, even has the 1/4 inch bolts. I put it diagonally across the output yoke. After that is removed you can pull the seal. The reason I had the leak was because over time the seal cut a groove in the output yoke. If the groove isn't deep, you can use emery cloth to clean the seal mating surface. The grove in mine was deep. You can also use a "speedy sleeve", which is a very thin shaft/tube that goes over the yoke to give a good seal. My goal wasn't perfection, I just want smaller puddles where I park the jeep. The seal that was installed previously was set very deep into the race. I just left the seal about 1/16-1/8th of an inch off the seat, which will put the seal on a non-grooved portion of the yoke. If it starts leaking again I will go with a speedy sleeve.
While I had the skid plate off I scraped the old oil and dirt accumulations. My engine was also contacting the firewall. When I put the skid plate back on, I moved it about 3/4 to an inch forward to the second set of mounting holes. Hopefully that will solve the issue with my valve cover leaking. A friend of mine has an 82, those were the mounting holes his scram used. So this should be good to go.
Happy Jeeping
I dropped the front drive shaft, then jacked the trans with a floor jack. I put a jack stand under the rear output of the TC. I then removed the 6 bolts holding the skid in place, then removed the 3 trans/TC bolts for the mounts. Once everything was out of the way I locked the jeep in 4 low, 1st gear then used my impact wrench to remove the nut holding the output yoke in place.
You will need a puller to remove the front output yoke. I went to advance auto and rented their steering wheel puller. It works perfect, even has the 1/4 inch bolts. I put it diagonally across the output yoke. After that is removed you can pull the seal. The reason I had the leak was because over time the seal cut a groove in the output yoke. If the groove isn't deep, you can use emery cloth to clean the seal mating surface. The grove in mine was deep. You can also use a "speedy sleeve", which is a very thin shaft/tube that goes over the yoke to give a good seal. My goal wasn't perfection, I just want smaller puddles where I park the jeep. The seal that was installed previously was set very deep into the race. I just left the seal about 1/16-1/8th of an inch off the seat, which will put the seal on a non-grooved portion of the yoke. If it starts leaking again I will go with a speedy sleeve.
While I had the skid plate off I scraped the old oil and dirt accumulations. My engine was also contacting the firewall. When I put the skid plate back on, I moved it about 3/4 to an inch forward to the second set of mounting holes. Hopefully that will solve the issue with my valve cover leaking. A friend of mine has an 82, those were the mounting holes his scram used. So this should be good to go.
Happy Jeeping
sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
- City
- OKC
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Maintenance time. I decided to do a tune up on my 4.2.
I I was told the 4.2 in my scrambler was from a 76 AMC hornet which would mean electronic ignition. Once the cap was off I could tell that I have points. Since no one else here likely deals with points I'll keep it short. Basically buy distributor cap, rotor, contact points and a condenser (about $30). Remove all the old parts, install the new.
Adjustment- put the engine in gear and rotate the engine until the peak of one of the lobes of the distributor shaft is touching the tip of the arm on the contact points. You then want .019" of clearance. I also used a dwell meter (28-35 degree range), my .019" put me at 33 degrees dwell.
Next up is plugs and wires, then I'll clean the carb. It's running good, but the idle is a bit rough.
I I was told the 4.2 in my scrambler was from a 76 AMC hornet which would mean electronic ignition. Once the cap was off I could tell that I have points. Since no one else here likely deals with points I'll keep it short. Basically buy distributor cap, rotor, contact points and a condenser (about $30). Remove all the old parts, install the new.
Adjustment- put the engine in gear and rotate the engine until the peak of one of the lobes of the distributor shaft is touching the tip of the arm on the contact points. You then want .019" of clearance. I also used a dwell meter (28-35 degree range), my .019" put me at 33 degrees dwell.
Next up is plugs and wires, then I'll clean the carb. It's running good, but the idle is a bit rough.
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sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
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Rear wheel lip repair. Both sides of the stamped flair on the rear wheel wells were rusted out. As the wheel houses were rusted as well I came up with an unconventional repair. Basically cut the lip off, the cut 3/8-1/2" of the wheel house out. Then take and cut a flat sheet metal replacement lip and weld to the side panel and wheel house.
Before
After cutting
Cutting replacement
Welded on
before I patched all the rust. But I did start painting. I had Oreillys paint shop mixed up some Olympic white urethane.
Before
After cutting
Cutting replacement
Welded on
before I patched all the rust. But I did start painting. I had Oreillys paint shop mixed up some Olympic white urethane.
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sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
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I haven't really seen any examples of anyone who cut the wheel wells out like this. Now I wish that I would have taken more pictures... On the outside I used a marker to mark along the stamped edge. Then I marked the inside of the wheel well to where the side panel would meet the well - without the "flair". I then used (whatever was closest) either a jig saw, pneumatic cut off saw or a 4 1/2" angle grinder to cut along the lines. I did the drivers side in 3 strips and it took forever. Passenger I did all at once. Removing the flair did make the fender less rigid, but I also was able to get rid of all the rust.
I thought of HEI, or going with a Ford "big cap" with TFI. Really it came down to the points only being $30. This engine runs good, but makes a fair amount of valve train clatter. It also doesn't have much oil pressure at idle and leaks like a sieve. I suppose the biggest reason is that I have a 1990 S10 with a 4.3 and 700R4 waiting to be swapped in someday.
I thought of HEI, or going with a Ford "big cap" with TFI. Really it came down to the points only being $30. This engine runs good, but makes a fair amount of valve train clatter. It also doesn't have much oil pressure at idle and leaks like a sieve. I suppose the biggest reason is that I have a 1990 S10 with a 4.3 and 700R4 waiting to be swapped in someday.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
That's very interesting. I haven't messed with points. Watched my grandfather do it when I was 14-15 on the old Willys Jeepster we had, but by the time I was brave enough to wrench on my own everything we had was electronic ignition.
So with a points distributor that you don't have the Duraspark ignition box/ module, so with a points distributor, how is it hooked in as far as wiring in concerned?
sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
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I haven't seen a module on any points ignition vehicles, at least that I have worked on. Wiring is a one wire hookup like an HEI. One wire that is hot on crank and when the key is in the on position to the positive side of the coil. Then a wire from the negative side of the coil to the distributor. It's simple and reliable, just needs a bit more tinkering than modern systems.
sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
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I’ve put off updating long enough. I’ll try to add some content back in that was lost this fall.
I got Peg tuned up and ready for Nationals. Here we are loaded up and ready to go.
Here we are inspecting some jeeps.
The tunnel.
Waiting in the group.
I got Peg tuned up and ready for Nationals. Here we are loaded up and ready to go.
Here we are inspecting some jeeps.
The tunnel.
Waiting in the group.
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Zodiac
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Macomb
- State
- MO
An interesting little tidbit:
Take the trigger lead from the points off the negative side of the coil. Route it to the input trigger lead of a standard 4-pin GM HEI module, and wire the output trigger lead of the HEI module to the negative side of the coil. This will have a twofold effect: 1) Current draw for the HEI input trigger is much lower than that of the coil itself, so it will reduce wear on the points, as they are only being used as a low-voltage switch, not a power switch. 2) HEI module allows the use of an 'e-frame' coil such as the Ford TFI or a GM HEI coil, which creates a hotter spark than the standard can-style coil, is not as prone to overheating and shorting out, and eliminates the need for an ignition resistor or resistor lead.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-trigger-hei-using-stock-points-dist.978979/
Take the trigger lead from the points off the negative side of the coil. Route it to the input trigger lead of a standard 4-pin GM HEI module, and wire the output trigger lead of the HEI module to the negative side of the coil. This will have a twofold effect: 1) Current draw for the HEI input trigger is much lower than that of the coil itself, so it will reduce wear on the points, as they are only being used as a low-voltage switch, not a power switch. 2) HEI module allows the use of an 'e-frame' coil such as the Ford TFI or a GM HEI coil, which creates a hotter spark than the standard can-style coil, is not as prone to overheating and shorting out, and eliminates the need for an ignition resistor or resistor lead.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-trigger-hei-using-stock-points-dist.978979/
sdsupilot
CJ-8 Member
- City
- OKC
- State
- OK
As with most projects, I am behind on this one. Winter hasn’t been too cold in Oklahoma. We’ve enjoyed taking the jeep out, so I haven’t been in much of a hurry to start the engine swap.
My goal was to have the swap complete and bring the jeep to nationals. With son #2 arriving late May it looks like we won’t make nationals. We likely won’t do much family jeeping until the fall. That being said, I should have time to get the swap done this spring.
Donor - 89 s10, TBI 4.3, 700R4. 89k miles, complete running and driving. Plan on pulling everything I could use from it. I might use the steering column. Then I could wire in cruise control and use the factory column shift for he transmission.
Plans, pull complete engine 258 I6, trans SR4, and Dana 300 tcase. I plan on leaving all accessories on the engine. I’ll likely try to find a CJ auto brake petal. Then pull the hydraulic clutch assembly out as well. Once that is done, I’ll pressure wash and paint the engine bay and underside of floor pans.
From conversations with other cj-8 folks the dana 300 won’t work with a 700r4 (clearance wise) on a non-lifted jeep. Novak and Advanced Adapters confirmed.
That was too much talk without pictures... went with an NP241C from an 89 suburban with a 4 speed automatic (700r4). From what I gather 89 was the first year of the 241, it is also the only year with cable drive speedometer. 1990 suburbans switched to electric (speed sensor) speedometers. So, if you want to use a 241 and your original jeep speedo... 89 SUVs should be the ticket.
My goal was to have the swap complete and bring the jeep to nationals. With son #2 arriving late May it looks like we won’t make nationals. We likely won’t do much family jeeping until the fall. That being said, I should have time to get the swap done this spring.
Donor - 89 s10, TBI 4.3, 700R4. 89k miles, complete running and driving. Plan on pulling everything I could use from it. I might use the steering column. Then I could wire in cruise control and use the factory column shift for he transmission.
Plans, pull complete engine 258 I6, trans SR4, and Dana 300 tcase. I plan on leaving all accessories on the engine. I’ll likely try to find a CJ auto brake petal. Then pull the hydraulic clutch assembly out as well. Once that is done, I’ll pressure wash and paint the engine bay and underside of floor pans.
From conversations with other cj-8 folks the dana 300 won’t work with a 700r4 (clearance wise) on a non-lifted jeep. Novak and Advanced Adapters confirmed.
That was too much talk without pictures... went with an NP241C from an 89 suburban with a 4 speed automatic (700r4). From what I gather 89 was the first year of the 241, it is also the only year with cable drive speedometer. 1990 suburbans switched to electric (speed sensor) speedometers. So, if you want to use a 241 and your original jeep speedo... 89 SUVs should be the ticket.
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