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Taking Built CJ7 apart to make CJ8 For Winter Use

Wet sanded doors, painted door handles. Nothing really happening.
 

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Winters here, time to continue the switch, cj7 parts onto the cj8 frame and fiberglass body.20181108_150831_resized.jpg
 
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The dash came in from Double D Fab. Looks good. Will give some extra space behind the speedo. Tight fit with the vintage air heater. The trans mount also come in.
 
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It's amazing how easy it was to remove the tub. Jeep was rebuilt 10 yrs ago. Been housed in the shop ever since. She has less than 6,000 miles and seen rain maybe 30 or so times.
 
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Under carriage is in excellent shape. Should make the swap much easier.
 
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Only problems so far is the Borgeson steering shaft had a locking bolt that the head broke off years ago that I forgot about. Tried drilling the bolt (hardened steel), didn't put a dent in it. Ended up removing the shaft at the steering gear. When I pull the steering column I'll see if I do better with the drill press. Also noticed the steering gears leak has gotten worse. Order a napa rebuilt gear and a M.O.R.E steering gear bracket. Now's the time since I have it apart.
 
Being a one man crew it helps out a lot. My old shop I rented had a 20 ton hoist. That was sweet. Really miss it.
 
I have a Bobcat with the fork attachment. Definitely been spoiled. It supports the one man show for sure!
 
I've lifted all my bodies off with an engine hoist. I have no forklift and also do the one man show.
 
That's a tried and true way of lifting. I'm just lucky because I use the tow motor to load my truck. You use what you have at hand. Engine hoist may be easier since I had to jack each side up and support to get the height to slide the forks between the body and trans/transfer case. In the heated room only about 9 ft. of height.
 
This week I reinforced the body mount over rear axle, switched the fuel tank over to the cj8 frame. Also ran fuel lines and switched the stainless steel brake lines over. Needed a longer parking brake cable, that's installed along with the rear parking brake cables. Got the rear axles and springs over then noticed (Didn't think about it) the TDK frames have the rear spring hanger welded into the frame. Now were waiting for the M.O.R.E spring hanger's. Also ordered the M.O.R.E steering bracket. Don't want to take a chance with a stock frame. The Napa steering box also came in.20181119_145622_resized.jpg20181119_142809_resized.jpg20181119_145622_resized.jpg20181121_121958_resized.jpg
 
Is that the MTS extended/drop tank set up? Allegedly it doesn't work for a CJ-8?
 
That's the tank. Today I had to make the rear spring hangers so I can drop the engine and trans in the chassis. The M.O.R.E spring hangers shipped out today. It fits, Just didn't look yet to see how it clears the rear end. I'll probably have to modify the filler hoses. On the other cj8 project if I remember right I have the rear end moved forward 1" because of the oversize tank. That may be another option to keep the tank.
 
M.O.R.E power steering mount came in. Primed and painted. Also had to get a new flare tool. Old tool wouldn't clamp the line tight enough. Finished the fuel and brake lines.
 
The m.o.r.e bracket is the one that moves the steering box 1" forward (tie rod and drag link rubbed together, will pull the drag link forward for some space). You have to cut the front cross brace to be able to install the lines. Also have to notch the sway bar frame mount. When I mocked the bracket up with the steering box mounted to the frame I realized how much of the cross member I had to remove and how much it would weaken it. It also doesn't allow the 7/16" bolt through the frame and mount. The original steering mount and the m.o.r.e bracket (stock location) mount use this bolt to pull the bracket against the frame. Instructions also say that they weld a round stock rod on the inside of the cross brace. With the mount mounted, 1/8" of space between mount and back side of cross member.20181128_112831_resized.jpg20181128_112821_resized.jpg
 
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