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I'm curious what the loosen up and pull method is exactly. I have the same seal and have at least a quarter inch gap between the top of the windshield and the top of the hard doors. I was considering heating up the seal with a heat gun or pot of hot water and then pulling on the windshield frame...

x2 on Novak. I love this guy's rebuild videos, followed his when I did my Dana 300...

Very cool, I think I'm going to tackle the same thing soon. I think I've pretty much determined that the Volvo electric pump isn't powerful enough to run both the steering box and the hydraulic brake booster. What are you thinking for power steering?

Not mine, saw this beauty in Telluride when I was in town for the bluegrass festival...

Odd, when I was researching this, the discussions I found online (link this one) all said the non-CAN default is 70%. I'm going to keep digging into alternatives. I'll stop hijacking this thread now, sorry @timo439

True, I’d read that the default is 70% power which I figured was enough.

Replying to follow b/c I'm very interested. I went with a hydraulic booster fed by a mid-2000s Volvo electric pump (made by Ford actually) and ran it inline with my steering box, mainly because it was cheaper and seemed more bolt-in. The first few tests are not promising though. It regularly...

I saw that build (dubbed the JTe) at SEMA and it's NICE. The builder claimed he was able to get all of the factory sheet metal pieces needed for the new bulkhead etc from his local dealership for $1,500, just needed the part numbers. He also said it's the factory JLU frame (no chopping or...

Ha yep. Reminds me of a favorite ad character that actually ran for like 70 years...

Thanks! The electrification has definitely come together quickly, thanks to the eGT systems being as close to "crate" as possible. The downside is the cost, though fortunately for me I'm essentially their guinea pig (and marketing now apparently) for this system so I got a decent break on that...

It does have regen and I'm working with the eGT guys on the tuning of that.

It's rated at 406 ft/lbs and 275 electric HP (which is roughly equivalent to 440 ICE HP). I should get somewhere between 120 and 150 miles of range from the 53kWh pack based on rough math but I'll definitely be doing real world calculations once it's on the road. 120 is plenty for my intended...

So it's been a while since I've posted progress, mainly because I was at the point where I was waiting on the ElectricGT guys to start sending me the battery modules and then the motor. I did get the rear battery module back in July and designed a simple skid plate/mount using Fusion360. Then...

I've been messing around with this thought too b/c I don't want to run a rear bumper/swing-out tire carrier (I just love a naked rear end, what can I say). I took some scrap angle and square tube I had and made an upright mount using a cheap mount from quadratec. It bolts where the rear seat...

Color matched the aluminum frame cover I got from @Kim Dawson. I think it turned out awesome.

Is this what you're after...https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/hardtop-corner-seal-81-95-jeep-cj-7-and-wrangler-yj Seems stupid expensive for what it is. I was just looking at weatherstripping for my half hard top and am planning to pick up some 1" wide 1/4" thick neoprene adhesive...

Thanks! They’ve been great to work with so far. I might DM you to pick your brain on a few things if you don’t mind.

I have the license plate bracket that attaches behind the driver tail light so I'm leaning towards using that, mainly for symmetry with the fuel inlet bezel, which is now where the charging port will be.

The bumper I posted in-progress pics to the workbench thread. I like the way it turned out.

The booster I got is this one... https://www.performanceonline.com/Hydro-Power-Hydraulic-Brake-Assist-Booster-Kit/