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Your year number seems correct, it would be '77 or '87 depending on if it has an original metal or plastic socket.
(Also, note the day is the working day of the month, not necessarily date.)
From WARN site:
I've used this for many, many uses with great results. (haven't done my Jeep glass yet)
https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Vacuum-Lubricant-5-3oz/dp/B001UHMNW0?ref_=v_sp_product_dpx&th=1
A little goes a long way and IS somewhat messy.
Well, I've caught up to your latest post. Very impressive build.
One question, (for now)...
Do you have a resource for the Tesla battery modules?
With all the work you did to accommodate them - arguably the most intensive part of the design - it would suck to have to modify boxes, buss bars...
On a standard relay #85 is the coil voltage negative terminal, #86 is coil voltage positive terminal.
On the Leash dual relay you have the terminals from left(blue) to right(red) would be 86, 85 for left relay coil and 85,86 for right relay coil.
The Batt + would be your power source that...
Sorry you couldn't get yours to work properly.
I'd offer you mine but it has set for so long I'm sure it would need a rebuild too.
I don't have any good real life input on quality of rebuilds.
I'm going to go with fuel injection... with a '93 4.0L attached to it. :rolleyes:
Are you attempting to keep it original?
If not there are several options, (some easier than others), for replacement.
P.S. The edit option is on the bottom left, I'm pretty sure it's time sensitive and goes away.
I just added this through the edit option.
Just to continue the "off-topic" of this post...
I can't begin to count the number of power poles and light poles I've installed in FL (read winds/soil) over the past many years that are still as plumb as when set without any concrete.
Dry pouring a slab... call me old school, not happening.
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