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After the above fiasco, transfer case reinstallation went fairly easy. Transmission jack and six studs coming out of the clocking ring really helped out. Much easier compared to reinstalling a manual transmission. Cleaned some parts, went ahead and greased the rear driveshaft CV assembly...

Two sets of 24!!!! About pooped my pants when I found a needle bearing on the work bench, then really hit the ceiling when I flipped the transfer case right side up and another one fell out the bottom!!! Actually tapped the intermediate shaft back out some to take a peek inside to make sure...

That's the spirit :ROFLMAO:

Using the new shaft to hold the rear thrust washer in place. The front, due to clocking ring, more PIA. Can't get a straight shot, did the best I could. I needed both hands for the intermediate gear. And just like that it fell right in. Hahahahahahahahah!!!!!! Minor PIA. My case notch...

Back at it. Old parts, no abnormal wear or damage. New parts from Novak that came with their shaft. No idea what the top 3 clips are for, did get two spare O-rings for the intermediate shaft (shaft came with o-rings already installed). Old needle bearings, two rows of 23. Made sure none...

Who will finish first 🤔

Copy Cat :p

You got it 8-)

So, the other issue with the 4:1 gear set is that the large gear on the intermediate gear is larger then the stock gear, so extra fun to remove and reinstall. When this case was empty, before starting the rebuild, I made a notch per the LoMax instructions for this gear to clear during...

More gear oily goodness. Taking more stuff apart. Only 6 nuts hold the Dana 300 adapter plate to the back of the AX15. And safely on the ground. First time pulling out a Dana 300 without the transmission attached to it. Not too bad. Shimmed up the high side of the case with a 2x4 to...

So, up next, try to eliminate/or at least greatly minimize the Dana 300 intermediate shaft leak. I have had good luck with Novak's intermediate shafts eliminating leaks, due to an o-ring seal on both ends. The OEM shaft, and most aftermarket rebuild kits, only have a seal in the front side...

Cleaned up, ready to take something else apart on it....

Back together, quick test drive, seems good to go. Might work on this next: Looks worse then it is, annoying Dana 300 intermediate shaft drip. That's it for now.

Of course all did not go perfectly in ole RedneckRay land. Snapped off cover to drive slug bolt. I installed these Yukon drive flanges last year, happy with them. IIRC last year, after installing them, I drove around with the rear wheel center caps off so I could check for leaks/looses...

Grade 8 flange bolts to replace the original Grade 5 bolts. I used 1" long bolts on the open ended holes, 3/4" long on the four blind holes. The thick differential cover easily accommodates the longer bolts, they barely protrude past the back of the housing. These new bolts did not have the...

Scooped out the old fluid from the master cylinder, compressed calipers, scooped some more old fluid out. Not a full flush, this fluid is from last year, so not too bad. New fluid installed. Back to the differential cover. Better to be lucky then good!!!!!! I was able to back out the...

Some grease here for the spindle bearings and big spindle seal. A bit more grease on the spindle bearings, anti seize around the back side of the spindle to keep it from rust seizing in place. I did this last time, worked like a charm when I disassembled the spindles this go around. Not...

Some emery cloth and polish on the seal portion of the shafts, a little spray lube on the rest of the shafts to keep the flash rust away. Since the differential was out, I took advantage and slid the axle shafts into position, figured it would be a bit easier on the rubber seals. The...

And the other side. So, this got me thinking. Happy with the tool, but why did I have to add pieces to make it work. Dug an old seal out the trash can, it fits perfectly on the tool, tool goes inside the seal like what I did on my second stack. Perfect! But why? So, my ring and pinion...