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Thanks..I think I figured it out. I had that document but I took the "body assembly" apart...the plastic gut inside the hub and it really didn't go into working on that part. It took some fiddling but I got the knob and guts timed together so they engage and disengage properly. Fortunately...

Engine block color Thanks to both of you. Thanks for checking on your block color, trust, when you have a chance. I know my engine has been rebuilt at least once and not sure if the color was changed. Mine did have the black plastic valve cover but already had the extra tapped holes in the...

Hello, all again. I searched the forum for the stock color for the engine block and timing chain cover. Most of the results were either black or AMC blue. Mine looks to be a color of blue but I am not use it is stock. I have an '83 258 that I am restoring. Anyone have definitive info on the...

muffler Hey, 4miles, what brand muffler did you use? I got a "Quiet Flow" from Quadratec but the inlet and outlet are reveresed from yours. Mine looks like outlet is centered and inlet is offset to one side. Thanks.

Hey, all. I recently took the front wheel assemblies off and went through them as part of my restoration. While I was working on it I deciided to disassemble the locking hub units to clean the internals and paint the housing. What is the proceedure to get the unit put back together so the...

Thanks for the advice...they look great, by the way, jerseyjeeps. I think that was the eBay source I found once but haven't seen them recently. I'll keep watching though. I used the paint and wipe method on my rear caps too and they came out great. It took some patience and had to keep my...

Hi all. I'm getting a little further with my restoration. The rear is done, complete with restored Laredo rims, new brakes and brake guts, and axle bearings/seals. I'm on to the front, checking brakes and bearings and repainting the black OEM locker housing. I have a few questions...are the...

Ok, I got the new bearings and seals installed. The axles both showed no marring on the inside ends and the differential block seemed fine on the ends. However, even without any shims on the left side I am still out of the factory spec for end play (about .020" end play). Is this OK with most...

Thanks, spankrjs, for the info. I asked just in case my axles were shot and needed new ones. I got them out and they look good but the bearings feel "sloppy" compared to new ones. I got a KenTool T-500 hub puller this week off ebay for $40 and it made short work of the hub seperation on my...

Ok, thanks...If you remove the centering block then you have to shim both axles, correct? Again, when you swap to a single piece axle, do you need to remove the shoe assembly and remove the bearing cover first or do the single piece axles slip out of the outer bearings without removing the...

Thanks. Yes the nuts and cotter keys were still there...mileage is about 120K. I've had her for about 16 years and put about 35K of that on her, the rest was from previous owners and not sure what all they had done to it. The axles have been "worked" on before though, there were hammer marks...

Hi, all. I was replacing the rear brakes last week on my 'Bessie' restoration and the end play at the rear axle was huge, at least a 1/16". The book says something like .006" is desired and is adjusted with shims at the left axle only. I have never had to do this and have some questions...

Thanks, 4miles. I wondered how that bracket was originally used. On mine the current muffler is about 9" forward of yours, so I really can't use the bracket unless I have a long arm on it. Nice looking rebuild by the way! Thanks much. -Mark

Hi, all. I'm midway in my restoration. I am trying to undo previous wrong-doings on my 'Bessie' and tonight was tinkering with the exhaust. I am sure the muffler, and maybe the cat, have been replaced before and I am trying to figure out how the exhaust was atached in front of the rear axle...

Thanks all. Mssldn, this is what I ended up doing and so far it looks good. The rivets are out but the heads are still intact. I can prep, prime and paint the subplate and reattach the VIN without having masking lines. I know it seemed a bit anal to ask about (I am not building a Concourse...

Eeeek! I just saw some reproduction rivets for this online from a few places for $50 a pair! Ha ha, I have regular rivets that I'd sell to anyone for just $20 a pair. I did not realize the reason for the shape and that it was such a big deal to tamper with them. Unless someone has a better...

Hi, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all out there! I have a queation about the VIN plate at the windshield. My VIN tag checks out and all is ok with it but the metal plate it is riveted to at the windshield needs to be repainted during the restoration. I noticed the rivets are not...

Thanks all. I had sort of thought so. All the old brochures I have show it the same color as the body. Mine is black (on a Beige body) and I like the contrast. The spare tire mount is black and it just looks good that way to me on a light body. Anyway, thanks much. Sincerely, Mark

Hi, all. I have a question about the roll bar color...was it ever optioned or offered in a color other than the body color? Just about all that I have seen match the body color. Mine currently is a contrasting color (not stock) and I like it better. I have seen a few others that way too but...

Looking good! Be carefull. I borrowed a good sandblaster when I stripped my bed and after removing the paint in those same areas I found rot on the side panels. The sand blaster poked small "rust out" holes through the side of the body in front and behind the fender wells. Not a bad fix but...