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I third doing the relays before or at the same time as the lamps.
Like with car audio - you can buy $200 speakers but if you don't add an amp they'll just be $200 versions of what you had before. The amp is like the relay in this case.
You can get suitable replacement hardware at McMaster-Carr for like $15/set, so I personally wouldn't worry too much about preserving 40y/o rusted hardware.
Spice tends to match across brands, although quality may not.
My recommendation would be to sit on it for a good 3-6mos before deciding which way you want to go.
I thought I was going to do spice when I first purchased, but it wasn't long before I regretted wasting money on cheap aftermarket...
Mine is also clocked more or less flat. Still filled to overflow, though it did make changing a rear output shaft seal a little more messy than typical.
Hot, cold, any temp in between?
Fuel pump, fuel filter and filter orientation with appropriate return line (to rule out vapor lock) is where I'd check next. Then on to plugs, distributor, and timing.
Could be a vacuum leak, at the intake/exhaust manifold for example. I assume the carb and vacuum hoses were done in an effort to fix the stalling, and not something that happened before the issue started?
Jumped like a Willys in four wheel drive!
We live in a divided household. Wife is a CU grad and I did my grad school at CSU.
One thing we can all agree on, UWyo blows!
That's for pulling really stubborn weeds out of the garden.
I seem to recall a "Phoenix" package somewhere. Of course you can't search for it because everything comes up Phoenix Graphics.
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