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1983 Scrambler "STUMP JUMPER". Frame off, 5.3 Conversion.

John N said:
What rears are you planning to use for this?
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My plans are to install Dana 44's. I have a '78 Scout II with Dana 44's and 4.56 gears that would make a good donor but the old 304 just won't give it up. As much as I hate to admit it this is going to be a street queen and probably never taken off road and maybe never used in 4WD, that's what the Scout is used for. I would have made it a 2WD but I was afraid the Scrambler community would disown me.
Picture of the Scout..It's been on it's side twice and on the roof(before the pipe rack) once but it just won't quit. I'll bet that truck has carried out at least 200 deer since I bought it in `1982. Oh, the back half was just about rotted off when I bought it so I just built a flat bed for it. The tires have been on it since 1985.
 

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Well, not to put ideas in your head or spend more of your money (I do remind you you said it was a no holds barred not looking at cost until the end)... maybe a set of new 44's built to fit? That Scout looks too good and is too hard of a worker to rip out its drivetrain :)

cb
 
certifiablejeep said:
Well, not to put ideas in your head or spend more of your money (I do remind you you said it was a no holds barred not looking at cost until the end)... maybe a set of new 44's built to fit? That Scout looks too good and is too hard of a worker to rip out its drivetrain :)

cb
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You are absolutely right. I'm going to drive it around with these axles at first just to work out the kinks then some 44's.
Me and that Scout have been through everything together, good and bad. I call it 'Spike". It's stayed by my side through 3 divorces. We've been together for 33 years now and I want to be buried with that truck.
 
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I'm trying to figure out what to use for the drive by wire accelerator pedal. I guess I could try to modify the one out of the Tahoe but I would prefer a bolt on one. Does anyone know of one?
 
To get clearance for the front shaft we clocked the d300 a tiny bit downwards. Filled the holes and re drilled. This got the shaft down away from the lip on the pan. Have a look at that, might be useful.
 
gazzo said:
To get clearance for the front shaft we clocked the d300 a tiny bit downwards. Filled the holes and re drilled. This got the shaft down away from the lip on the pan. Have a look at that, might be useful.
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Thanks gazzo, that is my next issue. In fact I am going to see about getting the drives shafts fit in the morning. If modifing the pan doesn't work I will get a two piece drive shaft built with a center carrier bearing. While it is still just a rolling chassis I figure it's the best time to fit the drive shafts and a dual exhaust system.
 
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Great thread. Enjoying watching it. For what it's worth, my muffler guy suggested I wait till body was on and it was together for exhaust system, for fitment issues. Just a thought.
 
Craner8 said:
Great thread. Enjoying watching it. For what it's worth, my muffler guy suggested I wait till body was on and it was together for exhaust system, for fitment issues. Just a thought.
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Yea, that way I could drive it up there with the headers open.
 
I hate doing body work but I have to repair the fire damaged hood cowl. I'm using a spot weld cutter which really makes the job easier except that I have over 100 to do. I removed the biggest part of the sheet metal so I could just see what I was doing with my Plasma cutter.
 

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Having to make mods to the transmission pan due to drives shaft clearance problem has got me thinking. It's going to be harder to remove the pan when the filter needs changing and maybe I should at least consider a remote spin type oil filter and why not install a transmission temperature gauge. I see one mounted close to the radiator and just spliced into the return line. Also installing a drain plug is a given already.
 
3:40 am. Time to go to bed. Last night it was 8:00 am and 4:30 am the night before. It's just too danged hot to work in the day time here South Louisiana.
 
Looking great so far. I haven't seen any mention of which tourge converter you are planning on using. The stock one is set up for the tank and 295 HP. You are adding HP and cutting vehicle weight almost in half. You may wiant to look into a "looser" converter. :thumbsup: :wave:
 
Have you sourced a cowl? Interested if there is a "better" one since that's on the list for mine. I'm thinking key parts.
 
MrBeep said:
Looking great so far. I haven't seen any mention of which tourge converter you are planning on using. The stock one is set up for the tank and 295 HP. You are adding HP and cutting vehicle weight almost in half. You may wiant to look into a "looser" converter. :thumbsup: :wave:
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I have thought about it but I don't know one thing about the converters so I'm going to have to trust someone else on this. I am open to suggestions, Remember this is going to be a street queen mostly.

Follow up. I spoke with Advanced Adapters about this and they said most users stick with the OEM torque converters and make most of the adjustment in the computer programs when using the 4l60E. My setup came from a Tahoe with a tow package so it has the dual mode option. I'm thinking with some adjustments I can put the dual mode option to good use. Cruise control should also be easy.
 
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gazzo said:
Have you sourced a cowl? Interested if there is a "better" one since that's on the list for mine. I'm thinking key parts.
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My cowl should be in any day. It's coming from my local vendor but probably through Morris or Quadratec. I wish I could have bought one without the vent since I won't be using it. On my '81 I just made a blind out of 24 ga. S/S and sealed it to the cowl under the vent grill.
 
gazzo said:
Have you sourced a cowl? Interested if there is a "better" one since that's on the list for mine. I'm thinking key parts.
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I just hope this one last another 30 years, By then I'll be 96 and probably won't care.
 

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