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1984 CJ-8 Project...here we go

Chamba

Not obsessed: focused.
Member
SOA Member
City
Vero Beach
State
FL
It's great. I don't have 4 kids, but each of my 2 has their own row. Can't do that in a 40. I had an HJ47 troopy for many years too, but they are actually too long to be useful as a daily driver. For that, my Scrambler is sheer perfection.
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
So after contemplating my drivetrain for the 3rd or 4th time, I've decided to build a bulletproof drivetrain along side my build. I found a GM NV4500 4x4 tranny that will need to be rebuilt and an NP241C (passenger drop) transfer case in great running shape. PIcked 'em up for $750, so hard to pass up. Not the easiest route, and from what I gather, I will have to fabricate quite a bit to make it work, but it's probably the best option in the long term, especially if I go with an LS. Good thing I have a body lift to accommodate the bigger tranny.

For now, I may just run what I have until it breaks, and have my alternate drivetrain standing by when I'm ready for the swap. OR, if anyone is interested in a complete 258 / T5 / D300 drivetrain, I would be willing to sell it for $2200, as long as you're willing to pull it out the the Jeep.....I can help. The 258 has lots of new parts (water pump, plugs, spark plug wires, belts, electronic distributor, Weber carb, hoses, etc). I also have a new clutch set and flywheel that hasn't been installed yet. PM me if interested.
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
How quickly things change......After going over rebuild costs, modifications, and timeframe, I've decided to stick with a stock drivetrain for my CJ8. The NV4500 and NP241 transfer case are being sold so I can focus on getting this Scrambler on the road sooner than later.

I am rebuilding a T176 I got from a buddy and will need be removing the drivetrain so I can do a D300 transfer case rebuild and swap the T5 for the T176. I have 3.31 gears, which are not the most desirable, but should do okay with 32", soon to be 33" BFG ATs, and a T176. Even if I do swap out the inline 6 for a stock LS1 at some point, from what I've researched, I should be okay with the T176/D300 combo as long as I don't drive too aggressively with it. A buddy also offered me his 3.73 gearset in case I find the 3.31s to be too uncomfortable. 3.73s may be just right for mostly highway / light trail driving with 33s especially if I ever get the LS swap done. Based on my calculations, I should be able to cruise at 65/2500 rpms with 33s and 3.73, vs 65/2200 rpms with 33s and 3.31. Can anyone else comment on this combo?

Finally getting back to work on the body.....I've been working on patching up small sections of rusty panels, specifically the lower front quarters, small areas on the rears, and a couple of spots on the rear floor pan behind the rear fender wells. I think the PO had an after market rollbar and hit something (maybe parking garage), or had too heavy a hunting rig on it, since the original rear rollbar mounting structures were in fine shape but the spots just in front were both torn downward in the same manner. I was able to replace these using a piece some replacement pans and the front corners by cutting pieces out of one long rocker panel replacement piece. I wish my welding skills were much better! Still have some welding grinding to do.

Front floorpans are next but I think I'm going to leave the holes I cut out in the front floors until I get the drivetrain swapped. I can get much better access with them open.

More to follow soon.....
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I ran 32" tires with a T176/3.31 ratio. It was OK, but struggled on some long/steeper grades, just not enough gear.

I ran 33" tires with T176/4.10 gears for a short while, it was great, but I kept the top speed to 65 mph. RPM's seemed a bit too high at 70 or above. Went to 4.10/AX15 because I drive too fast!!

3.73/T176/33" tires should work out well, should be able to cruise around 70 and still get OK mileage, maybe 15-16mpg.

:twocents:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I ran 32" tires with a T176/3.31 ratio. It was OK, but struggled on some long/steeper grades, just not enough gear.

I ran 33" tires with T176/4.10 gears for a short while, it was great, but I kept the top speed to 65 mph. RPM's seemed a bit too high at 70 or above. Went to 4.10/AX15 because I drive too fast!!

3.73/T176/33" tires should work out well, should be able to cruise around 70 and still get OK mileage, maybe 15-16mpg.

:twocents:

The 32" tires/3.31 gears was with the original 258 and the OEM carburetor/ignition, Nutter Bypass.

The next two were with the 258/4.0 with Mopar MPI.
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
The 32" tires/3.31 gears was with the original 258 and the OEM carburetor/ignition, Nutter Bypass.

The next two were with the 258/4.0 with Mopar MPI.
Thanks Spankrjs,

This was exactly the feedback I was looking for! I think 3.73s will be the way to go.

Just curious to know what you think about the T176 holding up to a 350hp/350tq stock LS engine. I don’t plan on driving it hard, I just want some fuel economy and reliability, along with power to make it up those Texas hill country hills. I also worry about the driveshafts and other parts of the drivetrain.

Anyway. Thanks again, much appreciated!!!

Regards,
Oscar
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
Update. Well, it’s been awhile but I’ve been working on ol’ red for the last couple of months.

I rebuilt the t176 that I bought from my buddy. All looked good except for the synchronizers and reverse idler gear, which were replaced, along with all the bearings and seals.

I also rebuilt the Dana 300, which was a bit more challenging, but not too bad. I had to buy a harbor freight press which I planned to getting anyway. All the gears were good, just new bearings and seals.

Today I bolted the newly built t176 tranny to the bellhousing it came with and jacked it up into place. I was surprised that I was able to shimmy it in place with the floor jack. Next I adjusted the clutch to take out the play. I was surprised that the clutch lever that attaches the z bar to the clutch fork was so worn that half of the shaft thickness was missing. I welded it up and grinded it down and now it works like butter.

So it looks like the pilot bushing was rounded out, and so the input shaft had about 1/8” of play. Also the throwout bearing was totally shot as well, and fell into pieces when I pulled the tranny and t case out. That explains the noises and wonky shifting. I didn’t really bother to look in the T5 and ended up selling it for $300, with rebuild required.

Tomorrow I’ll install the Dana 300 and the skid plate/tranny mount, along with a new Tom Woods rear driveshaft I bought. I may just get the front DS cut down to save $$.

I do have a few questions, if anyone know the answers, your reply would be much appreciated.

1. What it everyone using for tranny and transfer case oil? I was going to go with ATF for the tranny and gear oil for tte D300, but I’ve heard penzoil synchromesh works better than ATF, among other things…what experience have y’all had there? I will probably also replace the front and rear diff oil while I’m at it.

2. Anyone have a good picture of what holes to use for tge t176/d300 combo? I think it’s the first set of holes but a picture would be awesome. I’ve looked on the forums, lots of good details but photos are best!

3. The tires are from 2012 but hold air fine. tread is great but some sign of dry rot. I’m going to go with 33s, maybe BFG ATs instead of MTs but also going to try to find a more reasonably priced tire for this weekend light trail cruiser. Any suggestions?

I’m hoping I can take it for a test drive this weekend so I’m getting pretty pumped. I hope I can finish the mechanicals by then.

Thanks in advance for any guidance!
 

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
City
Palm Bay
State
FL
Tomorrow I’ll install the Dana 300 and the skid plate/tranny mount, along with a new Tom Woods rear driveshaft I bought. I may just get the front DS cut down to save $$.
When I had my friends driveshafts redone I had the old rear cut down for the front replacement, (it's was a little beefier.)
I will add that I'm uncertain if they were stock driveshafts as his 8 was a restomod.

I don't have any pics of my stock T176/D300 mounting holes but I'll try to get some tomorrow.
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
When I had my friends driveshafts redone I had the old rear cut down for the front replacement, (it's was a little beefier.)
I will add that I'm uncertain if they were stock driveshafts as his 8 was a restomod.

I don't have any pics of my stock T176/D300 mounting holes but I'll try to get some tomorrow.

Thank you, that would be great! Oh, great idea on using the rear driveshaft, much more stout for sure!.
 

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
City
Palm Bay
State
FL
Thank you, that would be great! Oh, great idea on using the rear driveshaft, much more stout for sure!.
These are as viewed from lying underneath. (the DS and PS markings are for a left hand drive :rolleyes: )
IMG_3185.jpg
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
Thanks FLCJ8!!!! So nice of you to post. Just in time, too. I just picked up the tranny mount, so I'm putting this thing in today hopefully.
Thanks again!
 

wm69

Scrambler Junkie
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
God's Country
State
AR
Update. Well, it’s been awhile but I’ve been working on ol’ red for the last couple of months.

I rebuilt the t176 that I bought from my buddy. All looked good except for the synchronizers and reverse idler gear, which were replaced, along with all the bearings and seals.

I also rebuilt the Dana 300, which was a bit more challenging, but not too bad. I had to buy a harbor freight press which I planned to getting anyway. All the gears were good, just new bearings and seals.

Today I bolted the newly built t176 tranny to the bellhousing it came with and jacked it up into place. I was surprised that I was able to shimmy it in place with the floor jack. Next I adjusted the clutch to take out the play. I was surprised that the clutch lever that attaches the z bar to the clutch fork was so worn that half of the shaft thickness was missing. I welded it up and grinded it down and now it works like butter.

So it looks like the pilot bushing was rounded out, and so the input shaft had about 1/8” of play. Also the throwout bearing was totally shot as well, and fell into pieces when I pulled the tranny and t case out. That explains the noises and wonky shifting. I didn’t really bother to look in the T5 and ended up selling it for $300, with rebuild required.

Tomorrow I’ll install the Dana 300 and the skid plate/tranny mount, along with a new Tom Woods rear driveshaft I bought. I may just get the front DS cut down to save $$.

I do have a few questions, if anyone know the answers, your reply would be much appreciated.

1. What it everyone using for tranny and transfer case oil? I was going to go with ATF for the tranny and gear oil for tte D300, but I’ve heard penzoil synchromesh works better than ATF, among other things…what experience have y’all had there? I will probably also replace the front and rear diff oil while I’m at it.

2. Anyone have a good picture of what holes to use for tge t176/d300 combo? I think it’s the first set of holes but a picture would be awesome. I’ve looked on the forums, lots of good details but photos are best!

3. The tires are from 2012 but hold air fine. tread is great but some sign of dry rot. I’m going to go with 33s, maybe BFG ATs instead of MTs but also going to try to find a more reasonably priced tire for this weekend light trail cruiser. Any suggestions?

I’m hoping I can take it for a test drive this weekend so I’m getting pretty pumped. I hope I can finish the mechanicals by then.

Thanks in advance for any guidance!

I would use some regular gear oil in the T176 and Dana 300. The T4 and T5 used the funny fluids over the years. The T176 uses regular gear oil.

I figured I'd put Redline MT90 in mine when I change it.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
I would just add to use a GL4 gear oil - not GL5 for the trans and Tcase. The GL5 spec has more extreme pressure additives for axle gears. Those additives aren't friendly to the yellow metal in the synchronizers in the trans.
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
OK, so quick update. First off, thanks everyone for posting the tranny and transfer case hole locations and gear oil info. The T176 and D300 have been installed and are working great!
Now to other things.....I just tore down my steering column to replace / repair some parts. I completely torn down the ignition assembly to install a new one. Only issue is, I can't find the spring that returns the key back to the "run" position after starting it. It was sticking pretty badly before, so I always had to manually turn it back to "run", but i replaced the lock cylinder and removed and lubed up the little black ignition gear and gear shaft, which were practically fused together, making the key hard to turn. Now that it's moving like butter, I still can't figure out how the key is supposed to spring back on its own. Has anyone messed with this? What am I missing? Where is this spring?
Thanks in advance. I will post more pics once I get this part done.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
OK, so quick update. First off, thanks everyone for posting the tranny and transfer case hole locations and gear oil info. The T176 and D300 have been installed and are working great!
Now to other things.....I just tore down my steering column to replace / repair some parts. I completely torn down the ignition assembly to install a new one. Only issue is, I can't find the spring that returns the key back to the "run" position after starting it. It was sticking pretty badly before, so I always had to manually turn it back to "run", but i replaced the lock cylinder and removed and lubed up the little black ignition gear and gear shaft, which were practically fused together, making the key hard to turn. Now that it's moving like butter, I still can't figure out how the key is supposed to spring back on its own. Has anyone messed with this? What am I missing? Where is this spring?
Thanks in advance. I will post more pics once I get this part done.
The ignition switch, umder the dash on top of the column, contains the spring which makes the key spring back. A long thin rod runs down the column into the ignition switch.
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
Thanks for the info! I was thinking the same thing, so I bought a new ignition switch. However, I checked it installed it-and the ignition switch is not spring loaded. I checked the old one and that one isn't either??? Maybe I installed the rod in the wrong slot because I wasn't able to test start the jeep? I put it in the only slot I can see, and it moves freely?? Hmmmm.
 

1984CJ-EIGHT

Member
City
Austin
State
TX
Spankrjs, You are a genius! The ignition has long mounting holes and I just had to slide it closer to the steering wheel to get max throw (sliding action) on the ignition switch. Now it returns to the run position AND it starts! Wow. I diassembled this thing 2 or 3 times to try to fix thing thing. You are the man, thanks for saving me time and headaches!!!
 
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