I ran 32" tires with a T176/3.31 ratio. It was OK, but struggled on some long/steeper grades, just not enough gear.
I ran 33" tires with T176/4.10 gears for a short while, it was great, but I kept the top speed to 65 mph. RPM's seemed a bit too high at 70 or above. Went to 4.10/AX15 because I drive too fast!!
3.73/T176/33" tires should work out well, should be able to cruise around 70 and still get OK mileage, maybe 15-16mpg.
Thanks Spankrjs,The 32" tires/3.31 gears was with the original 258 and the OEM carburetor/ignition, Nutter Bypass.
The next two were with the 258/4.0 with Mopar MPI.
When I had my friends driveshafts redone I had the old rear cut down for the front replacement, (it's was a little beefier.)Tomorrow I’ll install the Dana 300 and the skid plate/tranny mount, along with a new Tom Woods rear driveshaft I bought. I may just get the front DS cut down to save $$.
When I had my friends driveshafts redone I had the old rear cut down for the front replacement, (it's was a little beefier.)
I will add that I'm uncertain if they were stock driveshafts as his 8 was a restomod.
I don't have any pics of my stock T176/D300 mounting holes but I'll try to get some tomorrow.
Update. Well, it’s been awhile but I’ve been working on ol’ red for the last couple of months.
I rebuilt the t176 that I bought from my buddy. All looked good except for the synchronizers and reverse idler gear, which were replaced, along with all the bearings and seals.
I also rebuilt the Dana 300, which was a bit more challenging, but not too bad. I had to buy a harbor freight press which I planned to getting anyway. All the gears were good, just new bearings and seals.
Today I bolted the newly built t176 tranny to the bellhousing it came with and jacked it up into place. I was surprised that I was able to shimmy it in place with the floor jack. Next I adjusted the clutch to take out the play. I was surprised that the clutch lever that attaches the z bar to the clutch fork was so worn that half of the shaft thickness was missing. I welded it up and grinded it down and now it works like butter.
So it looks like the pilot bushing was rounded out, and so the input shaft had about 1/8” of play. Also the throwout bearing was totally shot as well, and fell into pieces when I pulled the tranny and t case out. That explains the noises and wonky shifting. I didn’t really bother to look in the T5 and ended up selling it for $300, with rebuild required.
Tomorrow I’ll install the Dana 300 and the skid plate/tranny mount, along with a new Tom Woods rear driveshaft I bought. I may just get the front DS cut down to save $$.
I do have a few questions, if anyone know the answers, your reply would be much appreciated.
1. What it everyone using for tranny and transfer case oil? I was going to go with ATF for the tranny and gear oil for tte D300, but I’ve heard penzoil synchromesh works better than ATF, among other things…what experience have y’all had there? I will probably also replace the front and rear diff oil while I’m at it.
2. Anyone have a good picture of what holes to use for tge t176/d300 combo? I think it’s the first set of holes but a picture would be awesome. I’ve looked on the forums, lots of good details but photos are best!
3. The tires are from 2012 but hold air fine. tread is great but some sign of dry rot. I’m going to go with 33s, maybe BFG ATs instead of MTs but also going to try to find a more reasonably priced tire for this weekend light trail cruiser. Any suggestions?
I’m hoping I can take it for a test drive this weekend so I’m getting pretty pumped. I hope I can finish the mechanicals by then.
Thanks in advance for any guidance!
The ignition switch, umder the dash on top of the column, contains the spring which makes the key spring back. A long thin rod runs down the column into the ignition switch.OK, so quick update. First off, thanks everyone for posting the tranny and transfer case hole locations and gear oil info. The T176 and D300 have been installed and are working great!
Now to other things.....I just tore down my steering column to replace / repair some parts. I completely torn down the ignition assembly to install a new one. Only issue is, I can't find the spring that returns the key back to the "run" position after starting it. It was sticking pretty badly before, so I always had to manually turn it back to "run", but i replaced the lock cylinder and removed and lubed up the little black ignition gear and gear shaft, which were practically fused together, making the key hard to turn. Now that it's moving like butter, I still can't figure out how the key is supposed to spring back on its own. Has anyone messed with this? What am I missing? Where is this spring?
Thanks in advance. I will post more pics once I get this part done.