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Amc 360 build

craveman85

CJ-8 Member
City
Dolgeville
State
ny
I'm picking up an amc 360 from a friend for my scrambler. He was going to put it in his cj7 but it needs a cam and lifters and he found a good running 304. It comes with a trans and transfer case but I probably can't use them because I assume they are from a fsj and have the deep bell housing. I'm getting the whole package for 350 with all accessories, oil pan, intake, carb, and stock manifolds. My plan is to try and find the best oem parts from various years/engine sizes to get a little better performance from it. From what I've read the 360 heads are great as is. What would be the best oem intakes, manifolds, carbs, ignition setups to use? Is there a particular set of 360 heads that's better than the rest? The carb I get probably won't be from an amc but I'm looking to repurpose used parts. Basically rebuilt junkyard stuff. I had a great 318 before I did this with. Removed emissions, 340 heads and intake, carb and cam from an rv, dodge 340 dart manifolds, older electronic ignition. Went from 140 to 260 hp at the wheels. Just generally trying to do the same thing here.
 
Oh I'm not just going to throw parts straight from the junkyard in the engine. The engine and heads will be professionally rebuilt. All ignition will be new and cam will be a nos, or close to stock grind. Will probably never see 4000 rpm.
 
4 barrel AMC manifold with decent carb and DUI distributor would be my pick. But then I'm no real authority. Do some research on improving the oil flow to the rear of the engine. A very good addition from all reports and relatively easy.
 
Amc used a head that built a little more compression the first year. It's called the 291c heads. Not cheap usually but maybe you can find some. I would find a used edelbrock performer intake or a rb4 intake. DUI distributor eliminates the motorcraft ignition module. A big thing you can do is a cam with more lift. Summit use to have a good one.
 
If it doesn't flow any better I'll probably stick with my heads I'm probably going to have mine milled when they're rebuilt anyways. I plan on running ethanol free 91 octane so I was thinking 10:1 was my target compression.what parts are needed for the dui swap
 
From what I researched, the Edelbrock R4B is more-or-less equivalent to a stock 4-bbl intake, which isn't a bad intake. It was an AMC option in the 1970s. But they aren't being made anymore, and thus are expensive when you find one; usually priced more than buying a new Performer or Air-Gap. For an engine that won't see more than 4000 RPM, you might actually look for a SP2P; this is a horrible, little, tiny intake that falls flat at high RPM, but might be just the ticket for your build. Because they are so universally despised, they are cheap (even free?) when found. For going truly cheap and stock, just pick up any 4-bbl cast-iron intake and call it a day.

The 291c heads are like finding hen's teeth, and are HIGHLY desired by the drag-racers since they're an OEM high-compression head and allows them to compete in whatever stock-class (using stock heads) that AMCs clean up in. I've never seen 291c heads in real life, and have only seen pictures of the casting numbers on the Internet. That being said, the stock 360/401 heads (they are the same casting) flow nicely.

The bigger question is: are you really wanting to stick with all stock and junkyard components, or are you willing to go aftermarket? 4000 RPM is a slooooow motor. Stock redline for the AMC V8s is 5000 RPM, and my built 401 has no problem touching the artificial rev-limiter I have set at 5500. But I also have a ton of mods into the motor, including the internal oil line (which is still probably overkill for what I do). For a truly stock build, you don't need to sweat any of the special mods.

A DUI distributor is itself aftermarket, and thus not cheap. It's a great system, but you can also run the stock electronic ignition, with the Nutter bypass, the TFI cap upgrade, and an aftermarket HEI-style coil, and have a great/cheap system.

The stock carb is the Motorcraft 4350. Not a bad little carb. Rebuild it and call it a day.

As for exhaust manifolds, there were essentially two styles: the "log" and the "free-flow." Pre-1980 Jeeps came with the "free-flow" and are great manifolds in stock configuration, while the left side log-style showed up in FSJs post-1980, and you'll find the right-side log-style in some of the '70s AMC cars. There was enough demand for the free-flow manifolds that the aftermarket actually started reproducing them, and there are also some great header options out there too with Thorley and Edelbrock.

As for cams, the Edelbrock Performer is a great little cam. It does more to wake up a 304 than a 360, but you'd probably be happy with it. The FSJ guys also swear by the Summit 8600. I've run the 8601 and was happy with it, but kept killing lifters (although in retrospect, I think it was unrelated to the cam).
 
I thought I might have a set of those 291 heads, since they were from 1971. Just went and checked before I said anything....the set I have are the late 1971, so they're just the 993 heads....nothing special.
 
Going to stick with the stock heads. They have been rebuilt. Cylinder walls show home from a recent rebuild I believe. Great compression. Cam has rounded lobes and is aftermarket I believe. It has a 2 barrel intake. I thought it had a 4 before I got it. Definitely not log manifolds on it. Probably just going to throw a cam, intake and nutter bypass for now. That should be more than plenty for me. The reason I want older parts is I'm doing more of a nostalgic weekend wheeler type build. 2" lift, 31s. Nothing that couldn't be found in a junkyard or speed shop in 1981.
 
I think I heard somewhere they had issues with frame cracks on earlier cj7s with v8s. Should I be worried about this for my 81 frame? It isn't corroded at all anywhere. Still has original paint on the frame, axles and the bottom of the rub
 
I've been running mine with a mild 360 for 10+ years with no issues. Use good mounts, I used the MORE mounts.
 
I'll probably be good then. I probably won't be too rough on it. Plan on meeting this for another 40+ years.
 
My understanding is that the frame cracks were only an issue with the mid-year CJ-5s that came with the 304 but not a fully boxed frame. I've been running V8s in CJ 7s and now my 8 since 1997 and haven't had any problems. I'm running OEM frame mounts with Prothane motor mounts.
 
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