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AMC 360

S

Scrambler666

Basic User
City
Norway
State
IA
is anyone running a 360? i have one out of 79 wagoneer that won't have any emission stuff on it. would like to talk to someone who might have done this and could tell me about some things. thanks in advance for any help.
 
Watching, as that may be an option I'd be considering too
 
What are the questions?
The 360 bolts in just like the 304 would and that came in CJ7's stock.
You need the right motor mounts to do this.
Depending on transmission you want to run, you take the belly pan and make it work.
Driveshafts need to be lenghtened/shortened potentially.
P/S would have to be adapted depending on if you have flared ends or o-ring setups.

All in all if it is an AMC 360, it shouldn't be too had of a swap.

cb
 
I went from a 258 immediately to a 304, which then was upgraded to a 360, and eventually the 401 that I have now. I'm also happy to answer any questions, but it's a fairly straight-forward swap.
 
I’ve run a mild 360 for years with the stock tf999. I a Howell tbi and a DUI ignition. It’s been a reliable combination.
 
trying to find a starter. preferably with solenoid on it instead of external. i hate extra wiring. any thoughts?
 
guess i should have mentioned what final set should be. amc 360, ford t 18, with dana t 18 transcase. hei, 2150 carb, headers. dana 44's front and rear, 4.27 gears. i think they have lockrite lockers right now want to change rear to something better.
 
AK-RWC said:
I went from a 258 immediately to a 304, which then was upgraded to a 360, and eventually the 401 that I have now. I'm also happy to answer any questions, but it's a fairly straight-forward swap.
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i have the 360 and tranny mounted in jeep, tranny is ford t-18, stock skid plate won't work. any suggestions.
 
Scrambler666 said:
i have the 360 and tranny mounted in jeep, tranny is ford t-18, stock skid plate won't work. any suggestions.
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Certifiable did more work than I did. I’m away from the Scrambler at the moment, otherwise I’d take pictures. I’ll be back on Tuesday.

In sum, I have the Advanced Adapters tailshaft, which is all cast aluminum. I used one hole already in the tailshaft for the mount/torque-arm, and drilled the tailshaft for the other location. Then used the stock mount and torque arm in the stock location.

At the leading edge, there’s a spot where the T-18 hit the plate. Roughly mark where it hits, go over in each direction about 1” left and right, and cut a longitudinal slit about 2” long where the skidplate has an upward turn. (Don’t cut all the way to the leading edge; stay back about 1”.) Then take a BFH and invert the upward curve.
 
certifiablejeep said:
You have to cut the skid plate to make it work.

Pics and write up from when I did a Ford T18 and D300...

http://certifiablejeep.com/freejeep/freejeep48.php

cb
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after looking at you write up, the skid plate i have and you have look different. plus the fact that the only place it looks like i could put a mount is on my transfercase adapter. there isn't anything on the tranny. also i was wondering if you kept notes as to what slave cylinder and master cylinder you used for hydraulic clutch. I am going to have limited space with the headers and the one you used looks nice and small. sorry to bombard you with so much.
 
If it is written down in the write up, that is what I used, if it isn't there, no way I am going to remember... sorry, that was a long time ago and many builds have happened since then.

The cross member I used is from 80-86, is yours from the 70s? if it is mostly flat, then you probably have an earlier one.

Post up some pics of what you have.

cb
 
certifiablejeep said:
If it is written down in the write up, that is what I used, if it isn't there, no way I am going to remember... sorry, that was a long time ago and many builds have happened since then.

The cross member I used is from 80-86, is yours from the 70s? if it is mostly flat, then you probably have an earlier one.

Post up some pics of what you have.

cb
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this is the skid plate i have
 

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It is a 76-80 skid plate, so it is different... it was designed for the dana20. Definitely not for a dana 300.
As for the Dana 18 as you mentioned, I don't know much about those, so I can't say if that would work or not.

Are you all the way forward on the bolt holes in the frame?
There are 4 holes on each frame rail and then you move the belly pan to fit the three holes of the four to the type of engine/trans/case you have.

cb
 
after i read that last post, i had a thought. this might be the one out of my cj7. title says its an 82, but everything about it says older. i think it's a 78, only because it still has the glass fuse block, and it had the 304 three speed combo. but whatever, i made it work, drill some new holes here, cut some metal out there, hours later its in.
 
Have a 360 in my scram. Pretty straight forward swap. Only issue I still have is the steering shaft rubs against the #2 exhaust header tube. Very tight fit there.
 
ran across another issue. power steering belt runs into vacuum of distributor.
 

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wrong pic in last post, here is right one. but, can anyone tell me what this tab on the t-case is for.
 

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