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Another axle question

rstickley

SOA Member
Gold Member
SOA Member
City
Carencro
State
La
So I picked up a Dana 44 front axle from a 79 Cherokee chief(pass drop) for my build. It's about 65" wms to wms. I have been try to find a rear axle but don't know what would be a good match. I came across a 14 bolt on marketplace. I was telling a buddy about it and he told me that the 14 bolt, being a heavy axle, will burn more fuel. I've never heard of that but it kinda seems like it could be. Has anyone had any experience or can back this theory? I know I will have to change hubs to get the lug pattern to match.
Also, what would you fellas pick for a rear axle if you had this front axle? I plan on taking trips in this rig and maybe some medium trails. Of course, I really not wanting to start cutting axles and housings so that's why I'm looking for something close to the same width.
 
Pass on the 14 bolt, big heavy, diff chunk hangs way low. Unless you have 40"+ tires it will be an anchor offroad. Maybe a dana 44 from an Izuzu.
 
I run the same front axle that was cut down, used a 82 waggy axle shaft which is about 4 inches shorter.
My rear is a 94 honda passport axle, its a dana 44 with disc brakes and 6 lug to match the front.
 
I run the same front axle that was cut down, used a 82 waggy axle shaft which is about 4 inches shorter.
My rear is a 94 honda passport axle, its a dana 44 with disc brakes and 6 lug to match the front.
Did you cut down both side of your front axle or just the long side?
 
For the rear, I am planning on running a D60. Bigger than a 44, not a huge chunk like a 14 bolts.

If running a 14 bolt rear, I would run a D60 front and 50” tires. They are a huge axle and only suited to on road tow vehicles that haul very heavy trailers, or serious off road vehicles with huge tires.
 
I run the same front axle that was cut down, used a 82 waggy axle shaft which is about 4 inches shorter.
My rear is a 94 honda passport axle, its a dana 44 with disc brakes and 6 lug to match the front.

Did you cut down both side of your front axle or just the long side?
Can you post a picture from the front or rear so I can see how the wheels/tires stick out with the body?
 
I've got a Dana 60 rear/44 front and my fuel economy didn't change so much as a fraction when I installed them.... and they are significantly heavier than the clothes hanger Corporate 20 narrow tracks they replaced.
 
@rstickley

If you're concerned about stick out, realize that his application appears to have negative offset wheels and wheels with more back spacing may work better for you depending on tire size.
wheels.PNG
 
I would imagine the 14 bolt would have these same impact on fuel economy as carrying a large cooler full of iced down beer. I doubt you would get too many people telling you to keep the beer at home because it will kill your fuel economy.
 
I had decided on the rear end and went to Pulll-a-part to see what was there. But, the only ones they had was drum brakes so I passed on them. Now I am second guess myself on wanting full width and outboarded springs. My original thought on this was to do it for better ride and stability. I've never driven or ridden in a CJ that had full width axles and outboarded springs. Will doing this be bennificial? The front Dana is 65" and the rear Isuzu would be 63". Would this be too wide? I could cut down the front then go with an older Isuzu axle that is narrower. I'm going nuts trying to decide what to do!
 
Yeah... I know that feeling. I played this game for quite a while. I bought a J10 D44 front which is the same as yours. I searched for that specifically to avoid outboarding the springs by cutting the long tube down approximately 4.4". Outboarding isn't a terrible project, but if you are going to that much work I would consider links. I also feel a 14 bolt is overkill, but in all honesty the D60 I ultimately went with isn't that much smaller or lighter.

If you are alright with drum brakes, the easiest option IMO would be a waggy D44 rear. This would pair nicely with the width of your chief D44 if narrowed like mine. If you want disc brakes the Honda Passport/Isuzu Rodeo in certain years will have disc brakes, appropriate width and a matching 6x5.5" bolt pattern to match your front. Another disc brake option is the Ford 8.8. It does come in appropriate widths but the lug pattern is 5x4.5". You would likely need new axles as most say there isn't enough metal on the flanges to re-drill to a larger pattern.

After searching for the above for some time, I found a Ford E350 D60U. It has disc brakes, full float and a smooth bottom. It was about 67" WMS. I narrowed the front axle myself with some help from @John N. Narrowing the front does seem intimidating but with good tools and patience it isn't that bad. I did have a shop narrow the rear to my measurements by narrowing the drivers side 5.5". Moser made new custom rear axle shafts and narrowed the stock drivers side front axle shaft.

I used stock parts to convert the front from 6 x 5.5 to 8 x 6.5. WMS in the front is 62.5", rear 62". The 8 lug hubs added 3/4 to 1" per side. Overall width with 35 12.5 17 tires with 17x9" wheels with 3.5" BS is 78" outside to outside. Its still pretty wide, those are 6” fender flares. I have a fair amount of pictures in my build thread. Page 7 is where the D44 front stuff starts.


CBF58832-832F-459C-A764-0823F5B92386.jpeg
 
Look at the Toyota 8" rear axle. It's a drum brake setup but comes in various widths depending on year. Plus you can buy one with the factory selectable locker for $500 -$700 depending on where you are and are most common with either 4.10s and 4.30s. They kinda look like a Ford 9" but smaller with great ground clearance. Very strong and they run the Chevy 6 lug pattern. It's common to see the Yota guys running 35-40" tires on them. The Tacoma or 4runner versions are both great. There is just more to cut off the 4runner version. Also the bellcrack location for the E brake is a little different between the two which might make a difference if you are spring over or spring under.
 
Look at the Toyota 8" rear axle. It's a drum brake setup but comes in various widths depending on year. Plus you can buy one with the factory selectable locker for $500 -$700 depending on where you are and are most common with either 4.10s and 4.30s. They kinda look like a Ford 9" but smaller with great ground clearance. Very strong and they run the Chevy 6 lug pattern. It's common to see the Yota guys running 35-40" tires on them. The Tacoma or 4runner versions are both great. There is just more to cut off the 4runner version. Also the bellcrack location for the E brake is a little different between the two which might make a difference if you are spring over or spring under.
I am using a 02 Tacoma rear axle for my new build, and a chevy44 up front cut down 4 inches. Both are 6lug pattern.
 
I am using a 02 Tacoma rear axle for my new build, and a chevy44 up front cut down 4 inches. Both are 6lug pattern.
Chevy axle...are you building something spring over axle? I'm very seriously considering soa at least for in the rear using 63" Chevy 1500 springs like the Yota guys. They flex like crazy and ride super smooth while still being able to handle weight. It SHOULD end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of a 5" lift. I'm picking up a set of springs this week from a buddy to try out. This should be interesting.
 
Chevy axle...are you building something spring over axle? I'm very seriously considering soa at least for in the rear using 63" Chevy 1500 springs like the Yota guys. They flex like crazy and ride super smooth while still being able to handle weight. It SHOULD end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of a 5" lift. I'm picking up a set of springs this week from a buddy to try out. This should be interesting.
Yes, my new scrambler will be SOA running 2 inch rubicon express springs.
 
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