• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

AX15 or NV3550 behind AMC V8 looking for real world success vs. failure experience

Finally getting back on this project....

I have 2 choices in order to swap in the 5 speed:

1. I can order an adapter to join the 5 speed to my existing bell housing and retain the factory CJ clutch linkage/bellcrank. (of which mine is in good working
order and slightly modified)

or

2. I can use the 5 speed bell housing and source/convert over to hydraulic clutch actuation

Cost is about the same if I source all new parts from Novak, but I suppose I may be able to save a few bucks going hydraulic if I can find a good used master/slave and lines in a bone yard. I imagine I would have to modify the current clutch pedal arm to connect to a master cylinder push rod.

Anybody that has done this swap have preferences or advise?

Thanks,
 
When I did this on my CJ7, I went with the hydraulic clutch (from Novak), and it worked out splendidly!

The firewall has the clutch cylinder mounting point imprinted (because the 4-cylinder models came with a hydraulic clutch from the factory). I stuffed a wet towel on the cab side of the firewall, and used a plasma cutter to cut out the hole. This was the easiest part of my AX15 conversion, and eliminated that pesky linkage, which is sensitive to engine/transmission location, body lift, and bushing wear.

If cost is comparable, I vote for hydraulic! :thumbsup:

Edit: I don't remember having to modify my clutch pedal arm, the clutch cylinder rod attached directly to it.
 
Last edited:
Hey thanks for the info! One more question/request.....I happen to have a fiberglass tub, so no mounting point impression. Could you possibly measure the distance on the engine side of the firewall between the brake master cylinder bolt boss and the fuse panel pass-thru connector? I need to verify that I have enough/proper room to fit a clutch master cylinder. These items were installed by the previous owner and I have no idea if he installed them in the proper location leaving me enough room.

Sorry, another question!..the cylinder rod attachment point to the clutch pedal arm....looks like there is a pin w/cotter just below the return spring, is that were you attached the rod?

Thanks!
 
My CJ7 is long gone... but my CJ8 has a factory hydraulic clutch. I'll bring it home tomorrow, and take some good photos and measurements for you.
 
Here are some photos of my clutch cylinder. It's tucked up behind the brake booster, with about 3/8" between the booster flange and the clutch cylinder flange.

clutch - 2.jpg

clutch - 3.jpg

Here's the clutch arm attachment... I can see there are a couple of maintenance issues I need to address here! :crazy:

clutch - 4.jpg

I'd say for placement, just go straight forward from the clutch arm mounting pin, drill a centering hole, and use the mounting gasket as a template. :shrug:
 
Thanks a bunch for those pictures! Worth a thousand words and thank yous!
 
Wow! Pics are really helpful. Can you measure the length of the master rod?

I'm about to swap an AX-15 in from a 94XJ - the master and slave from it was in great condition; I was hoping to re-use it if possible. I'm hoping it is about the same stroke length (or I will have to mount higher or lower?).

KK
 
It looks like the bolt pattern for the XJ clutch master cylinder is horizontal rather than vertical... I don't think there's any way that it will fit between the brake linkage and the wiring block.
 
Well, that looks like it just might work! You might have to grind the flange a little to make it fit next to the wiring block, but that's no biggie.

As near as I can tell, using a tape measure, the rod on my cylinder measures 4-1/2" from the firewall, to the center of the clutch arm mounting pin.

Is the rod end on your XJ cylinder adjustable? That might be helpful.

My pedal has about 3/4" of free play before it engages any hydraulic resistance. I wouldn't mind having an adjustable rod end to take out some of that play.

Good luck!
 
Here's a crop from a photo I pulled from CBs SJScrambler thread. It's small, but it shows the limited mounting area for the hydraulic clutch mount.

cab - 1.jpg
 
CJ7Pilot said:
Here's a crop from a photo I pulled from CBs SJScrambler thread. It's small, but it shows the limited mounting area for the hydraulic clutch mount.

View attachment 60766
Click to expand...

This is what it looks like installed next to the booster...

100_1868-1.jpg


cb
 
Looks great and thanks all for the pictures. Right or wrong I have decided to retain my CJ bellhousing/clutch linkage....I think I could have fit the hydraulic master cyl in there, it would have been tight, but doable. A couple factors swayed me to keep the existing set-up: current CJ set-up is in good working order and maybe more "trail-fix friendly" if ever needed. If were starting with a clean slate I may have gone hydraulic.

Adapter ordered, I'll keep you posted on the progress. Still need to order a clocking ring for the D300 to NV3550...
 
I actually ended up with both, decided to use the ax15 for a Willys wagon project that is on the back burner simmering. It has a 4.0L in it now that I put a T-176 behind (just because I had it laying around), but using the proper ax15 will be better.

Came across a deal on the NV3550...it has a marginally higher input torque capacity and 1st gear ratio, so its going in the CJ-8.

On another note trying to study up on clocking rings...thought it was required to bolt the dana 300 to the nv3550 to get the proper case location, but now I'm not so sure. Looking at a spare T-176 "texas" adapter and the NV3500, it appears as though they may be clocked the same or very close.

Based on this post, it somewhat confirms my observation...(my NV3550 is out of an XJ) from Jeepforum.com:

"I put both an AX-15 and NV-3550 in cj's with out adapters. The AX-15 required me to make a 1/2" spacer and machine down the input shaft of the d300. The NV3550 did not need any adapter at the rear, neither had a clocking ring. I did have to redrill the holes on a trans that came out of a Wrangler but one that came out of an XJ I did not have to redrill. I used the external slave setup on both. You do not have to use a different starter on the 258, the bolt pattern is the same for 258 and 4.0. The offset for the ring gear is different between the 258 and 4.0 so you use the starter for the engine you have."


and a another great swap link:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/t176-nv3550-swap-1042614/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top