Bodywork guidance requested

[Mean Green]

Gents,
Hey all, I'm new to the scrambler community and am in need of some serious insight. I have received excellent info in regards to the wiring harness to install in my scrambler, so ill try again with my latest issue.

I decided to replace the top cowl on my scrambler due to serious rust issues below the windshield frame. While removing the top cowl, I found that the cowl supports on both sides were shot, and cleverly camouflaged by the previous owner. I need to replace the supports, the top cowl and the side cowls back past the seats on both sides. Amix seems to make all the pieces, but I am having trouble trying to see how the support and the sides attach to the floor pan, and the removal/installation process. I understand pictures would help, but im not having any luck getting them to post. Im sure a lot of guys here would say "just get the tub" and trust me I would love to, but budget wise im stuck with what I have. I can hold my own with a MIG welder, but I have always steered away from body work and now it has finally cornered me - Thanks in advance for any info/advise

 

[jammer1]

I have a tub sitting on stands that I have stripped almost bare. If I have a better idea of what pictures you need I can take them tomorrow (when I go back to the shop). Take pics of what you want or where you want. I'll take pics of my tub and post. Or at least give me a better idea of what you want.

 

[Mean Green]

Jammer1,
I meant that it would help you guys if I could post pics of the rusted area, but I can barely start a thread here... Baby steps hahaha... I'm kinda thinking that the side is spot welded to the floor pan but I'm can't really tell

 

[mssldn]

The lower A-pillar attachment to the floor pan:
https://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?42543-firefighter736-s-Build-Thread&p=335206#post335206

YJ's had a similar cowl. Since you are in Texas you could probably find all your pieces without much rust.

 

[jammer1]

It's welded to the floor and it looks like two spotwelds welded through the pillar (guess is holes drilled in the pillar, spotwelded through pillar to back of side sheet metal. On the newer tub I'm building the po ran a weld between the b pillar and the inside (side sheetmetal). Outside looked like patch half assed welded on so warping of metal didn't affect anything (thin amount body filler).

 

[Mean Green]

Jammer1, that's it... I guess I just need to man up and start cutting- Much appreciated

 

[jammer1]

That was just off my computer (pics of my build). If you need more, give a yell and I'll try to get.

 

[bigwalton]

I guess I just need to man up and start cutting

I resemble that remark. I'm right there with you.

 

[jammer1]

Picture on pass. side. Side wraps around firewall. Firewall has 1/2" lip that goes to back side of side panel. Inside firewall has metal strip spot welded to inside firewall and a 1/2" lip spot welded to back of side sheet metal. Cowl has 1/2" lip spot welded to lip on side sheet metal. Floor has 1'2" lip spot welded to side metal (lip under floor).

 

[jammer1]

Floor lip goes around wheel well (portion of floor).

 

[jammer1]

Driver side b pillar. Where cowl, firewall meet. Cowl and firewall (top 1" lip toward engine compartment). The floor on the original tub was gone (PO put scrap metal down). Most of spot welds done through holes (about 1/4") that welds were put through.

 

[Mean Green]

Update

Guys, just a sitrep, I got both the side pannels, cowl and new fenders installed. Things went fairly well, and after a lot of mig wire and grinder discs, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out... For some reason I am still not allowed to post attachments...Anyway, things were going well until I went to mock up the windshield to the cowl to drill the hinge holes... It seems that my omix cowl is about 3/4 to 1 inch too narrow on the top rail... Meaning that there is a gap between the cowl side and the hinge... Anyone have any expirence with this? I could weld some sort of spacers to the hinge part but I really don't want to half *** it... Thanks in advance

 

[rustycrawler]

Guys, just a sitrep, I got both the side pannels, cowl and new fenders installed. Things went fairly well, and after a lot of mig wire and grinder discs, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out... For some reason I am still not allowed to post attachments...Anyway, things were going well until I went to mock up the windshield to the cowl to drill the hinge holes... It seems that my omix cowl is about 3/4 to 1 inch too narrow on the top rail... Meaning that there is a gap between the cowl side and the hinge... Anyone have any expirence with this? I could weld some sort of spacers to the hinge part but I really don't want to half *** it... Thanks in advance

Sorry...had to do it...

 

[Mean Green]

At the bottom of the page, it says "you may not post attachments"... I guess I have to fix this issue first...

 

[jims chop shop]

I can post them for you until you get the problem fixed
Rondylupo@hotmail.com

 

[rustycrawler]

Looks like it might be fixed....

 

[Mean Green]

Hopefully this helps... With the hinge flush on one side of the cowl, there is a huge gap on the other...I'm thinking either a spacer on each side, or maybe grind the center of the hinge to off set it on the pin

 

[jammer1]

I'm guessing because it's not the best angle. Before you cut or change put a door (hopefully a hard door) on and make sure it lays flush with the rest of the tub. This might help with the alignment.

 

[gaducker]

Check that with a factory hinge instead of the ss hinge. I used ss hinges for paint reasons and they didn't fit well at all.

 

[jammer1]

Good catch, their a little off on my cj7 also.