• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

Brake upgrade #3...

Randyzzz

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Last Wednesday my brakes decided to fail...In my driveway, thank God. They were fine coming home, but the next morning they went to the floor. These were an aftermarket set from Performance Online (EBay), and I think they were overseas sourced. The combo was an 8" dual diaphragm booster, 'Vette style master, and prop valve. This all replaced the stock setup a couple years ago. The master was leaking out the back, the prop valve had lost a seal midpoint so fluid was gushing out of the switch hole, and the booster came apart when I was loosening the master bolts. As a temporary fix I installed a duplicate setup that my son-in-law had on his Bronco (it's disassembled for restoration)...and the master leaks on his too. I haven't been happy with the pedal travel and feel, and inability to "lock" the brakes since the initial upgrade, so I did some research and ordered a larger 9" booster, bigger piston master, and prop valve from Summit. All American made. They showed up today. This weekend will bee busy with my wife's birthday, so next week I'll post up if the new combo feels any better. It better, or hydroboost here I come.

I also got approval to order a new soft top today!:bacon:

New Goodies-

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441235915.516494.jpg
 
Randy, I'm interested in hearing what you think about your new setup. I'm still rocking the manual brake system and I get pretty scared sometimes rolling on 33".


 
Trying to get some shop space to do the install. I'll post up pics once that happens.
 
Please do, there are probably several of us (myself included) that are considering doing this.
 
And review how well the brake booster works with your 4:1 T-case and the auto transmission in gear.......
 
If it works out and you like the new setup could you post up a link to the parts or part numbers? I'm interested too. Thanks
 
mysunnshine said:
And review how well the brake booster works with your 4:1 T-case and the auto transmission in gear.......
Click to expand...

Yeah... Right now I'll be happy if it stops in 2HI. I think with the 4:1 low it will drive through most brakes.
 
If I step up to hydroboost then l'll go 4 wheel disc at the same time. Then I'll need a better rear axle, then the 4 links... You know how upgrades go. This is affordable incrementalism especially since I just ordered a new soft top.
 
I still don't have rear discs and the hydroboost can send me thru the windshield. There's no reason that you have to change the rear drums out.

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
Well, I decided to labor on Labor Day. Got the new setup installed, and the difference is amazing. I can actually feel the brakes grab and the larger bore master brought the pedal actuation point up where it should be. On the downside it still does not want to lock up, but it stops where I want it. So, I suppose at some point hydroboost is on the horizon. Bottom line, I'm satisfied 100%. Here's some pics.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441683363.914421.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441683378.863050.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441683392.813693.jpg

Here's the part numbers from Summit racing. I reused the firewall adapter bracket that I had purchased previously.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441683478.060893.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441683496.611631.jpg

This would be s great set up with smaller tires (I'm running 35's) and it seems to be similar to the stock sized booster/master.
 
Randy, I've got a pedal going to the floor myself.
Perfect timing for this.
All those parts come from Summit?
 
Yes, although the firewall mount bracket was an aftermarket unit that I already had. I think summit has them available too. IIRC the stock booster bracket didn't fit when I did the initial booster swap.

I'm still really happy with the booster/master/valve setup pictured above. Our roads have been a sheet of ice for a week now, and my brakes apply smoothly and evenly.
 
Just remembered, I changed the clevis at the pedal on the initial setup too. I have an extra you can have if you need it.
 
Randy, I'm about to the point where I need to start ordering parts.
Still happy with this setup?

I just came across this page when looking for a weld-on disk brake bracket kit for the wide track '86 CJ-7 Dana 44 rear that I'll be swapping under it and am curious if the cost of your setup comes in under the third option down on this page: http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/brakes.htm
 
CJ8LVR said:
Randy, I'm about to the point where I need to start ordering parts.
Still happy with this setup?

I just came across this page when looking for a weld-on disk brake bracket kit for the wide track '86 CJ-7 Dana 44 rear that I'll be swapping under it and am curious if the cost of your setup comes in under the third option down on this page: http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/brakes.htm
Click to expand...

Seeing as mine was sort of pieced together from the initial build to the replacement in this thread, I can't be sure. I just ran the part numbers I posted through Summit, and then looked for a booster bracket kit, and came in about $100 cheaper. Booster/Master/Prop valve through Summit and bracket through Pirate Jacks. Might be to your advantage to price around...

I am very happy with my current setup. The brakes are really great, even with the D44/HD23 Waggy axles. The only drawback, like I mentioned, was that it will not lock up. But- my Scrambler has put on a lot of weight, and 35" tires and 4.56 gears probably don't help either. I did find out that the 5.3 maintains relatively low vacuum compared to what I am used to. I thought it was an engine issue, but everything checks out. Factory my model 5.3 used hydro-boost, maybe there was a reason for that. I do think that with a strong vacuum signal this combination would lock up no problem.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, Randy.

Vacuum will be pulled from a stock 4.0L first and then a stroked 4.0L - final displacement is a 4.7L.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top