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Brakes advice

mkii

mkii

CJ-8 Member
City
MOREHEAD CITY
State
NC
Hi guys... ok, this will probably be the first of many threads to be considered newb-ish, but Dad always said, don't reinvent the wheel, and the knowledge here is sure to save me some headaches... and for that, thanks in advance.

My 8 is not giving the braking power that we need... it stops, but it's a hard pedal push, and a slow stop.... locking the tires is impossible.

I see that the bolt on shoe to disc kits are pretty dang costly.

Questions:

1. Is there any scenario that you guys have seen that beefs the drums/boosters, etc... to get an acceptable stopping solution?

2. If I could only replace one, should I put discs on front or back?

3. I've seen good things about Vanco systems? Any seconds on that? or other suggestions for kits?

4. If you had $1,000 in the budget for brakes, how would you spend it?

Right now, pretty sure it's stock all the way around, and I'm running 33s.

Thanks to all,

Mike
 
Disclaimer: I haven't done any of this so I can't speak from experience, but I have considered exactly what you are wanting to do.

With $1000 to budget on brakes, I'd get a brake booster, maybe dual diaphragm, 8", 9" whatever you want, and make that kit work on your CJ. I think the cost is generally less than $500 total for this job. Take the other $500 and save it for another project :)
 
Well , you already have disc on the front and plenty of people have good brakes and still have drums in the back
I think John N runs that Vanco master cylinder with a 360/999 automatic and 33 and it works well
 
I've got the Navajo system from Off Again in Farmington, NM. It's been great and was about $400 or so. It's a dual diaphram booster and a bigger mc. You should already have disk on the front, every 8 left the factory with them.

Vanco only does hydro boost systems now, which would be overkill for you.
 
what year is your Scrambler.
do you have drums all around now
Do you have power brakes now
If drums all around have you tried adjusting them, and I mean jacking up the truck and adjusting them that way vs the "automatic" in reverse way?
 
1983, and I have discs up front and drums out back.

Here are some pics of master and booster

36da51dcf337424477329081f830e3e2-1.jpg


aeef650fbea72dfdb8bab7eafc33357d-1.jpg


3671ba4692b064049c5590ad3369dd9b-1.jpg


I'm assuming the red arrow is the vacuum boost connection?

The kits you guys mentioned are just power up replacements for what is here?

Researching and reading as I have time, but thanks for any insights.
 
The dual diaphragm is usually what the aftermarket kits use. The dual was also the good setup that you hear about in the yj conversion. More power applied to the MC with less petal pressure (easier on your leg). The single diaphragm doesn't have the power the dual has (unless it is a large diameter booster which doesn't fit in the cj). I have a vanco unit and if I'm not careful I'll lock the brakes on the freeway with 33" tires.
 
Hi all.... Thanks again for the advice.

Called Cody today at Off Again in NM. Top shelf customer service and manners. Sending me a full bolt on kit with all fittings, etc... all for right around what John N approximated.

Will try to doc the job here for any who follow this path in the future.
 
mkii said:
Hi all.... Thanks again for the advice.

Called Cody today at Off Again in NM. Top shelf customer service and manners. Sending me a full bolt on kit with all fittings, etc... all for right around what John N approximated.

Will try to doc the job here for any who follow this path in the future.
Click to expand...
I think you'll be quite satisfied. One thing I did different from their install recommendation was that I used (and still do) the stock proportioning valve.
 
Interesting... As you reference, they did recommend bypassing... In order to force an even four wheel distribution was my take. But, no real world experience on this... Thanks John N
 
mkii said:
Interesting... As you reference, they did recommend bypassing... In order to force an even four wheel distribution was my take. But, no real world experience on this... Thanks John N
Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with the stock bias in the proportioning valve, that's why I stuck with it.
 
I have the Navajo as well and I can almost guarantee the installer didn't touch the stock valve.
 
Ok, received the Navajo setup today and got most of the way there in about 2-3 hours.

7c53015a1ac7c383976c1001d4bb811c-1.jpg


55ade7a6b88dce52052ca5df90cd70b4-1.jpg


20228834d8711c388ae2b843b03b9024-1.jpg


8c4175eace8c66bf036480c15e0f1ed1-1.jpg


Now just need to bleed the MC, but need to pick up a bleed kit tomorrow. Really wanted to finish tonight, but have no interest in pushing air into the brake lines [emoji16]

Overall, a fairly straightforward project.

Will let you know how the test driving goes after it's bled and hooked up.
 
Bleed kit? That takes all the fun out of it....I'll send over my significant other...with her help you'll have it knocked out in eight to ten hours with her pushing the pedal and then letting back up while you still have the bleed screw open....

That looks like a nice set up.
 
That was ABSOLUTELY appreciated by both myself and my wife... After years of boats and cars, we both enjoyed it... Cheers [emoji106]
 
mkii said:
Now just need to bleed the MC, but need to pick up a bleed kit tomorrow. Really wanted to finish tonight, but have no interest in pushing air into the brake lines [emoji16]

Overall, a fairly straightforward project.

Will let you know how the test driving goes after it's bled and hooked up.
Click to expand...

Looks purdy. May have to add that to the never ending list.

A buddy of mine is usually working by himself on stuff, so now he pushes fluid into the system from each brake, rather than bleeding the normal way. That way he knows there's no air, cause all he's pushed is fluid up into the MC. Haven't tried it, but sounded cool.
 
Finished up tonight, and wow, what a difference!

Bleeding the master was no real challenge after getting the fittings right by buying short extension fittings and dremel-ing off one end to facilitate flexible tubing, and running and those back into the MC.

Had to bend and rearrange brake lines, but not a problem with the help of a roll of duct tape used to bend pipe around.

End result, pedal is soft at top third, and from there, nicely and progressively firmer until you get positive control over the jeep, and all with very little force necessary. Sporty! Feels like a big sedan.... Like a Caddy.

I'm very pleased... A world of difference by changing just one component.

Kudos to the Off Again product, and to Cody specifically... Nice guy.
 
I'm glad you got the brake performance you were looking for and for less then you were looking to spend.
 
jpdeuce said:
Looks purdy. May have to add that to the never ending list.

A buddy of mine is usually working by himself on stuff, so now he pushes fluid into the system from each brake, rather than bleeding the normal way. That way he knows there's no air, cause all he's pushed is fluid up into the MC. Haven't tried it, but sounded cool.
Click to expand...

That's how you bleed disc brakes on a mountain bike :)
 
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