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Changed my steering gear and now the system won't prime - any suggestions?

sevensandeights

sevensandeights
City
Mckean
State
PA
I have a beater CJ8 that I used to haul firewood from the woods to the splitting area. I parked it about 8 weeks ago after its last use and there were no issues. A few weeks ago I notice a massive pile of power steering fluid underneath. It looked like it was coming from the pitman arm seal and the input shaft seal.

I did a bunch of research and wanted to go with an H1 box but they are hard to find. I went with a Lares 1230 unit from RockAuto. It is supposed to be the "rock crawler" steering gear with a bigger piston for larger tires. It is larger and likely very similar to their 1430 unit for the H1.

The power steering gear bolted on with no issues and used the OEM metric o-ring style fittings for the hoses. It came with priming/start-up instructions that I followed but I can't get the power steering pump to "prime." I connected the pressure hose and disconnected the return hose. I then dumped fluid into the pump reservoir until it ran clear out of the return port. I then capped the return port per the instructions. The next step is to have someone crank the engine (but not start it - I pulled the coil wire off the dizzy to achieve this) while someone else adds fluid to the reservoir. I had my son crank the engine but the fluid level doesn't go anywhere. I opened the pressure line slightly at the back of the pump and cranked the engine but it doesn't seem to be building any pressure.

I thought the pump could be bad although I had no steering issues when I used it last 2 months ago. I had a spare and swapped it in and had the same issue (this pump is used and has been in a metal storage cabinet for about 15 years though). Fluid will not go through the pump and no pressure building at the pressure line port on the pump.

Any thoughts?
 
I have a beater CJ8 that I used to haul firewood from the woods to the splitting area. I parked it about 8 weeks ago after its last use and there were no issues. A few weeks ago I notice a massive pile of power steering fluid underneath. It looked like it was coming from the pitman arm seal and the input shaft seal.

I did a bunch of research and wanted to go with an H1 box but they are hard to find. I went with a Lares 1230 unit from RockAuto. It is supposed to be the "rock crawler" steering gear with a bigger piston for larger tires. It is larger and likely very similar to their 1430 unit for the H1.

The power steering gear bolted on with no issues and used the OEM metric o-ring style fittings for the hoses. It came with priming/start-up instructions that I followed but I can't get the power steering pump to "prime." I connected the pressure hose and disconnected the return hose. I then dumped fluid into the pump reservoir until it ran clear out of the return port. I then capped the return port per the instructions. The next step is to have someone crank the engine (but not start it - I pulled the coil wire off the dizzy to achieve this) while someone else adds fluid to the reservoir. I had my son crank the engine but the fluid level doesn't go anywhere. I opened the pressure line slightly at the back of the pump and cranked the engine but it doesn't seem to be building any pressure.

I thought the pump could be bad although I had no steering issues when I used it last 2 months ago. I had a spare and swapped it in and had the same issue (this pump is used and has been in a metal storage cabinet for about 15 years though). Fluid will not go through the pump and no pressure building at the pressure line port on the pump.

Any thoughts?
This is the procedure for the factory PS pump from the FSM... it's also the same procedure I followed on my '06 Dodge Cummins after replacing the lines for the hydroboost, worked well.
pump.PNG
 
I like to pop the port plugs and drain as much assembly fluid as possible, then fill the box with new fluid as much as possible (takes a little while to let gravity do it's thing) before mounting or attaching hoses. Once installed I jack the front wheels off the ground and cycle the steering lock to lock (engine off) about 20 times to work the fluid into the crannies, then follow the FSM instructions from there...
 
I mowed the grass to give my mind a break and then went back out to the garage. I decided to try and turn the wheel while cranking and that seemed solve the problem. The fluid drained into the steering gear quickly. I topped it off and turned lock to lock several times. Didn't see any bubbles or foam so buttoned everything back up and went for a spin. Steering was very clunky. Brought it back in and checked the reservoir and it was a little foamy. I adjusted my steering stops while I let it sit for awhile. Jacked the front end up and turned the wheel lock to lock again and it was still a little foamy. I ran out of time tonight but will get back to it tomorrow.
 
Steering is better but still a little "clunky" - there seems to be some rough spots while turning lock to lock. The steering wheel turns freely and then there is some small resistance and then it turns freely again. It's almost like a ratcheting feeling.

I turned the steering wheel lock to lock (engine off and wheels off the ground) at least 30 times. No more bubbles or foaming.

I thought that the steering shaft could be binding so I loosened the bolts on both upper and lower locking collars. Didn't seem to help much.

On a separate but related note, when I tried to center my steering wheel I noticed something strange. With the wheels on the ground, when I move the adjustment sleeve on the drag link, the tires move left or right (together) rather than the pitman arm moving. Steering wheel was unlocked in the column when I did this. Seems like the drag link adjustment is being translated to the knuckle and therefore causing the wheels to turn since the are connected via the tie rod. My guess is that there should be less resistance in the steering gear so that pitman arm would move first (rather than the knuckle/tie rod/tires). Any thoughts?
 
Just a hunch, is the lower steering column or coupling rubbing on anything (radiator hose maybe)?
 
"On a separate but related note, when I tried to center my steering wheel I noticed something strange. With the wheels on the ground, when I move the adjustment sleeve on the drag link, the tires move left or right (together) rather than the pitman arm moving. Steering wheel was unlocked in the column when I did this. Seems like the drag link adjustment is being translated to the knuckle and therefore causing the wheels to turn since the are connected via the tie rod. My guess is that there should be less resistance in the steering gear so that pitman arm would move first (rather than the knuckle/tie rod/tires). Any thoughts?"

I think that should be normal, the wheel movement should not easily back drive the steering.

Any debris in the oil you removed?
 
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