Dana 30 issues

[whitenite97]

OK,
82 with stock axles, lunch box locker in front.
mild 304 running 35's.
Light trails, little mud as possible, daily driver (50 miles a day). Not exactly by choice.
I was working on improving my steering. Steering shaft, tie rods, hd steering brace. (toe in was ok, camber is off some--positive, just not enough).
So, broke passenger side axle while starting a trail. This is my first one so it was new for me. U-bolt jammed up and it was a mess. Drove it home and just took it to my local mechanic. Great guy, honest, and he's always does me right. This was out of my comfort zone ability wise and since I'm driving it everyday didn't feel like this was the time to learn.
He fixed axle and I had him do the ball joints while he was there (both sides). The steering is great but it started making a growling sound/vibration. In the seat, not in the steering. My hearing is shot (i usually pull my hearing aid out in the jeep to save battery) but sounds like it was coming from the front.
So i googled and decided he didn't change the spindle bearing, took it to him and he agreed the sound was coming from the front driver side. Order spindle bearing kits for both sides and left it with him.
When i pick it up he tells me there is still slack in the shaft (driver side) but that I need a new hub. This isn't what the internet says. The major sound/vibration is gone but I still feel something going on up there.
I'm going to pull the lock out hub (superwinch) and see how much slack we are talking but when I put my hand on it, it was very warm. Not so hot I couldn't keep my hand on it, but very warm. I don't remember them being warm last time I messed with them after driving. The not so funny thing is, both sides are about the same degree of warm.
I'll going to try to get it pulled but it's starting to rain/dark here so I might not make it.
Front axle is free (not in 4wd) and lock outs say disengaged.
Should they be warm and how much slack should be in the axle? Could he have rebuilt both side typical and just didn't put them back together right?
Thanks in advance for any input or suggestion.

David

 

[IAFFCJ]

I would pull both sides apart to check and repack the bearings. I am by no means an expert but that is the first place i would check if the hubs are getting hot with it in 2wd and the lockouts disengaged.

 

[whitenite97]

yep, agreed. And I wouldn't say hot. Very warm--which i think is still wrong.
It'll have to make one more day. Looks like i'm gonna get educated in Dana 30 one way or the other.
Any ideas on how much slack should be in the axle after the hub is removed? Does the hub help to line up the outer part of the axle?
Superwinch does not offer a "rebuild kit". Is there any chance I just need new lock outs???

 

[John N]

New lockout hubs would be cheap insurance. Keep the old ones as spares.

 

[whitenite97]

Just an update:
New Warn lock outs installed. I think this solved it but to be honest I'm not 100%. I still feel like there is a slight "hum" in the front but it could just be that I'm driving it faster now that everything else is fixed.
Driver side hub stays cool and passenger side (new axle shaft) gets warm. I haven't put in in 4wd yet so I'm going to do that this weekend and make sure everything works. Maybe this will also help lubricate everything.
It drives better than ever. I've changed everything but the steering box (I know everyone likes to start there) and I can't imagine it driving any better.
Tires are next and I'll get a pro alignment (my return to zero is not great).
FYI--I went with the Warn standard lockout hubs as suggested by my local 4X shop. He didn't have anything negative to say about any of them but had been impressed with Warns customer service and return policy. Since I am still not sure if I have a problem up there I thought I'd spend the extra money and get these. Paid $180 for them but I wanted to give him some business after all the help he had given me.

David

 

[SHLTR2]

The spindle bearings can be anywhere from cold to just perceptibly warm to the touch. I don't think anything else can make heat in there. When you repack the bearings, they should have a slight drag to them, too tight and they will get hot.

 

[82cj7]

You mentioned it in the last post about tires being next. With possibly out-of-balanced 35's, it wouldn't take much to get a little "hum".

 

[Spieg]

Sorry if I missed it in reading the thread, but did you check to see if the brake is dragging a little one the side that gets warm? A sticky caliper can make some heat.

 

[whitenite97]

I had a friend suggest the tires as well--they are old and could very possibly be the issue (noise wise). I really can't tell where it's coming from and now that I have the hard top off it's even harder to notice. Tires soon one way or the other.
I did check for the brakes dragging but they are not. They are moderately fresh and I changed the calipers when I put them on. I thought that too, the only thing I could think of that might get hot without the hubs being locked.
Jacked up and having a friend over that CAN hear the wheels spin fine, no noise or drag.
So after a 2 hour drive this weekend the are just a little warm. Cooler than they have been. I have no clue why. It makes no sense that there should be a "break in" with bearings but it's a CJ and I've done all I can.

thanks for all the input.

David