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Eaton E-Locker 4 (D44 4-pinion model)

Spieg

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Aurora
State
CO
I think the "E-Locker 4" was released about a year ago for the Dana 44. Wondering if anyone has installed one of these yet? I've heard the newer models have a more reliable wiring harness, and the 4 pinion design is supposed to be a lot stronger than the older 2 pinion model.
Any experience or observations would be appreciated.
 
I'll be watching this. I'm happy with my Ecteds, but always looking for options.
 
Guess I'm the guinea pig... I'll let you know how it goes.



After doing the wiring, I can say that Eaton has changed the switch and relay from earlier models. The switch that came in the kit is a rectangular rocker switch (very much like the switch that comes with an ARB Air Locker) rather than the small round button they used before.

There was some confusion on the Quadratech website, but this model will fit all Jeep Dana 44 from 1970 - 2012.
 
And a parts list;

Eaton 19969-010 (E-Locker) $895
Spicer 706017-5X (4.09 R&P) $205
Timken 25590 (Diff Bearing) $13 X2
Timken 25523 (Diff Race) $11 X2
Timken 31594 (Pinion Inner Bearing) $22
Timken 31520 (Pinion Inner Race) $6
Timken 02872 (Pinion Outer Bearing) $20
Timken 02820 (Pinion Outer Race) $8
Timken 5778V (Pinion Seal) $29

Timken SET 10 (Wheel bearing kit) $17 X2
Timken 9912S (Wheel bearing Seal) $19 X2

The Spicer R&P comes with the pinion bearings, seals and shims, so you don't need to buy them unless you want a specific brand of bearing (the kit came with Timken outer pinion bearing and NTN inner pinion bearing).
 
I just installed one in a Jeep Gladiator front axle. I did not re-gear, so set-up was minor. I thought it went well and so far it works fine, but have not really engaged the locker a ton yet...just a few shorter two-track runs in the snow.

Some tips for you if you are NOT re-gearing and re-using your gears assuming the axle is in good working order:

You do not have to remove the pinion, therefore you will not have to set the pinion depth, pinion bearing pre-load, etc.
AND since you are re-using your current gear set, setting the backlash to the same backlash before disassembly is key to minimize gear noise.
So - measure your backlash before disassembly, assuming it's in spec, make sure when you shim your carrier and re-install, you have it shimmed to match that same backlash within .0005"+/- and you should be good to go. I also check the mesh pattern before disassembly and after re-assembly just for comparison, (should be nearly identical, but it's less important than the backlash.) Having the same backlash will help ensure quiet gears when re-using.

Shimming the carrier bearings - start with the same shim thickness if you can (or the same difference side to side) and adjust from there as needed. If you do not have a case spreader, I have shimmed things to just barely slip (0 clearance) into the diff to set backlash with the setup bearings. Once shims are determined for the correct backlash, add .005 to each side and press on the new bearings. This will give you .010 preload on the carrier bearings for the final install.
With the older Jeep axles D30/D44 the shims go under the bearings and having a set of "set-up" bearings helps a ton. I made some by using a brake hone to hone out the ID so that they will just slip on the carrier rather than press on. Once I have the shims correct for the backlash, then press on the new ones.

Hope this helps -
 
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