• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

Expedition Scrambler..?

for Karma...

Since I've been pretty stagnant on the build I figured I'd ad a pic or two for Bad Karma... :) I wish I had better picture taking abilities...these hardly do her justice. The club she works at had a anniversary party to include a stripper. Sad to admit that I spent all my time staring at the girlfriend..haha!
 
LOL but am i missing something? I see nothing :(
 
Oops...

Uh... Oopps! Sorry guys. Got hit with a surprise B-day party and forgot to attach the pic. I'll fix that when I'm home tomorrow on my laptop instead of this dumb phone. :)
 
fixed

I don't know whats worse... my phones inability to take a picture that does her justice or the fact that I look like a grinning idiot in every pic we take together..lol!
 
how come there is no "like" button? :D
 
Well... she's gone.
I have about 3 solid weeks to try and wrench on the heep now that she is back home on vacation...haha. Unfortunatly I still only have basically Saturdays to do anything due to shop hours and work schedules but I need to get moving on this! I still have to figure out how to get the last (stripped) bolt out of the rear of the tranny cover so I can reseal it...any ideas? The metric/torx type head of the bolt has rounded off and is on there gorilla tight. :( Once I get that fixed it should move pretty quick... I hope?
As a side note I have to say its a little funny how no girlfriend =s lots of Jeep time and enough money. Add GF to the mix and it all goes away... haha!
 
Yeah, welding may be on the option list. I'm still going to try some other methods first and then if that fails.. I'll either real-weld or JB weld one in place to do it. There's is just very little room to get to it (and awkward) but I do know it will come out. And there is no way that I'm pulling that beast of a tranny back out! Lol.
 

Attachments

I forgot...

Its been so long since I've actually worked on my Jeep I kinda forgot how much fun it is. I got up at 0530 to make breakfast and get coffee-nated and then headed back to post to start wrenching. As I'm driving in I see all these people running a marathon on post and thought "not today! I got better things to do!" :) It didn't dawn on me that the marathon would impact access to the shop but it turns out they had the access roads blocked. Not allowing anything to stop me I just parked the car and walked the last bit. I had the forethought to push the Jeep in a bay Friday at closing time and am glad I did. Seems people were already lined up and had arrived before the roads were blocked. I felt a little like an @$$ just strolling into my bay with a cup of coffee while the others looked at me but... well, Whats the saying? Fortune favors a prepared mind? :)
First thing on the hit list was getting the last stubborn bolt out of the rear transmission cover thingy. I had soaked it with PB friday but didn't think it would have any effect since these bolts are loc-tighted in also....I dropped the tranny end down enough to let the new wrench have a little room and then wrapped a rag around it. After bracing myself on the creeper and saying a few short prayers I gave it a good dose of old man strength and... BINGO! I was so happy I almost banged my head on the frame. :) Then I happened to notice that that was not the only bolt left...!:eek::banghead: Thankfully that one came out a little more normally and I was able to tap the cover off with a dead blow hammer. Victory!:headbang:
I spent a little while cleaning the cover up and scraping gasket gunk etc and then went into reassembly mode.My intent was to use the regular 6pt bolts I bought and throw the stupid torx things in the trash... glad I didn't. Seems the engineers use those things for a reason. The heads of the 6pt ones would be to big to allow them to have a socket put over them. Dang! So I spent a little while longer cleaning up the dumb torx ones and then used them. Anyone need some 6pt grade 5 bolts? haha! The end result that I car about is that I hope this stops the leak. The factory uses a very thin, clear gasket material but I couldn't see where it was compromised.I did notice some very fine lines inside the cover that made me wonder if maybe they were cracks? I hope not but there isn't anything to be done for that now so I pressed on.
Next came getting the BlackBox installed. I had messed with the clocking of this a bit back when I was first trying to get it all together so it seemed fairly correct. I hope it is but there are not any real instructions for it even on the company's website. But the end result is that at least it is in now. I have the lever that operates it at about the 3 O'clock position and since everything is cable operated I don't see where it will have any interference issues...yet? Haven't gotten that far into it so I will know that later.
Next came the t-case and this is where the issues have shown up. The recent addition of the clocking ring is what solved the problem of getting it to fit onto the range box. Before I had almost a 1" gap where the t-case bearing retainer was bottoming out in the BBox case. NorthWest fabs sent me the ring and a mounting foot to take up the difference and I had intended on running both. The ring as more a spacer and the foot for extra mounting point support. Well, I must have put the t-case in and out 20 times while laying on my back and trying different ways. Somewhere, somehow I have either mis-installed something (changed) or something isn't right. The t-case uses 6 bolts in a circular pattern to mount. The back of the Black box also has 6 holes with accesses to put on the nuts and washers. But rotate as I may... I could only get 5 of the t-case bolts (now studs) to line up with the box!?! And believe me... I tried rotating everything! I really don't know what I have done wrong or if maybe I have some odd ball ring or something but no matter what I tried I can't get all 6 to line up to install. To that I did what I know is truly a "hack" and VERY temp. fix.... I pulled the one stud that doesn't line up and installed the t-case without it.:shrug: If I were at home in the states and wasn't under such time restrictions I could have taken a deep breath and started over and gone very slowly. But here it is difficult to get time to work and evey day it just sits in the parking lot it costs me 3 bucks. If you add that to almost 8 months worth of sitting it adds up and is all just wasted money. At this point I really just want it to move under its own power again and not leak. That way if i get deployed I can put it in storage (at govt. expense) and then hopefully be headed stateside after the deployment. THEN I can tare it apart again and take my time fixing it right. Sad huh? But anyway...here is where its at.
The t-case is in using only the clocking ring. I couldn't see a way to run the mounting foot that made any sense, let alone worth another pair of surfaces that could potentially leak. Plus I would have needed longer studs and there is very little room in the access area of the Black box to get the nuts on so they would have to have been a specific size.?. So my other option and the one I think I will go with until I am stateside is to make a new and very custom mounting design off the back side of the t-case. I have to fab a new cross member anyway so this will just be one more thing. As I looked at it (and despite conventional wisdom/input) there is very little distance between the mounting foot on the end of the NV4500 and where the newly supplied one would have gone. And in my mind, it seems like supporting the back of the case would be much stronger than trying to sandwich another foot and still hang the t-case weight off the back.?. We'll see how this works but again.. if it just solves the short term need of moving it around, its ok. One thing about the supplied foot I didn't like is how it fit. If I installed it with the dog leg pointing to the rear it touched the t-case pan. Not only could that cause wear from vibration but it would require the t-case to be pulled just to change that pan gasket. If I flipped the foot around the other way it was no where near flat. Given the way it is slotted to allow rotation it only allowed the leg to sit about 20* to the drivers side. This may have been due to whatever else is causing a misalignment and the lack of the 6th stud fitting but I don't know.?.And while this will eat at me I am compelled to just get it all together and hope for the best.
So the pics are of how it is now... all heavy, major components are installed. There is still a LOT of stuff to do and the list goes a little like this...
-Fab a cross member and t-case support
-Fab an exhaust system and maybe re-use some of what came off.
-Install all three shifter cables and their assemblies.
-Install the hydraulic clutch master/slave deal.
-think about the drive shafts.
-And eventually install new ball joints and a correct pitman arm.

With the topic of driveshafts... I raised the tranny/BB/t-case up to about where it should sit and pulled a rough number for the rear shaft. Looks like I'm at about 20 1/2"s with how it sits now....all droopy butt. If it sat level maybe i would gain a half inch to an inch in static length. Does anyone know what the length of a factory CJ5 or 7 rear shaft is? If I get to where I will have a custom shaft made I will likely have it built with a much longer travel ability using longer splines and slip. I'm just not sure if I will need a CV on it or not? Take a look at the pics and toss me your opinion.
One funny thing of note is after I was cleaning up and getting the jeep rolled back outside I did something stupid. Since I don't have a cross member yet I had it all supported by a ratchet strap. Once I had it pushed into a parking spot I decided to see if the battery had taken any charge or if it would start. By some miracle (this new yellow Optima has been DOA most of the last few months, slow drain somewhere) it did in fact actually turn over! A few pumps of the gas pedal and it started, ran for about 45 seconds, and then POW! My dumb self forgot that the nylon ratchet strap was running just behind the cut off exhaust! DOH!!! Only took a moment for that to melt and snap and then the entire drivetrain dropped! Thankfully it didn't hurt anything and I used a bigger strap to get it back up but...PHEW!! Scary seconds there! :crazy:
So back to work week and waiting for next Sat to continue the saga. I have block leave coming up in the end of June. By then I hope to have whatever parts and much of the work done and can just tinker on it for fun....
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0638.JPG
    IMG_0638.JPG
    376.8 KB · Views: 152
  • IMG_0641.JPG
    IMG_0641.JPG
    341.6 KB · Views: 148
  • IMG_0639.JPG
    IMG_0639.JPG
    316.1 KB · Views: 153
  • IMG_0640.JPG
    IMG_0640.JPG
    253.8 KB · Views: 155
Todays half effort, need input.

So despite getting to the shop before they opened I still got pretty much shut out of a bay. It was almost 2 before anything opened up which makes it really not worth the effort of pushing the jeep inside. :( So in a half effort attempt to at least get some ideas I played with a floor jack to see why the drivetrain isn't going up high enough to sit somewhat level. Well... because the floor of the jeep is there...DOH! From crawling around on the wet ground with a flash light I found that the first thing to hit was the new bracket for the cable shifters. :banghead: And to make it more difficult, its not hitting on an open area of floor board but instead where one of the body channels runs. While my jeep already has some holes and what not and is not really "cherry"... I refuse to start hacking into it to the level it would need. So...here is where I need some thoughts. My only real idea so far has been to get a body lift. What sucks is that I think the jeep already sits far to tall as it is. And yet I'm not sure a 1" BL would be enough? So please all... take a peep at the pics and let me know some thoughts?
And just to prevent the questions... the bright "turn downs" on the exhaust are not there for good. The last time I tried to run the jeep to charge the battery it melted the little ratchet strap that was holding the DT up and it all went boing! So I just slipped these 90's on there to keep it from happening again. :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0651.JPG
    IMG_0651.JPG
    368.4 KB · Views: 146
  • IMG_0652.JPG
    IMG_0652.JPG
    208.3 KB · Views: 142
  • IMG_0657.JPG
    IMG_0657.JPG
    334.9 KB · Views: 141
  • IMG_0658.JPG
    IMG_0658.JPG
    264.2 KB · Views: 140
  • IMG_0653.JPG
    IMG_0653.JPG
    379.6 KB · Views: 143
Last edited:
A lil' more...

One pic that didn't fit on the last post. And a pic of why the heep seems to be dragging its butt. :(
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0655.JPG
    IMG_0655.JPG
    298.1 KB · Views: 140
  • IMG_0656.JPG
    IMG_0656.JPG
    240 KB · Views: 144
I think that with any doubler setup cutting the floor is pretty much mandatory. A 1" body lift might help- don't know if it will be enough. A 1" body lift will give you a lot more clearance in a lot of areas that you will find useful. Get the taller poly mounts with the built in 1" extra height.

Your up travel on the rear shocks looks minimal- re-arch those springs and maybe raise the upper mount after you install that body lift.
 
Thanks Randy. I guess some 1+/- body mounts wouldn't be too bad. Any brand/part numbers you can share for a scrambler?
As for the springs.. you can see where it is bent just aft of the front mount. Yeah the entire thing has lost most of its arch but that area is really bad. I will just have to order some new ones... :( IIRC, they were either used waggy springs or some hand me down CJ rears... I can't remember anymore. And I don't think I ever mentioned it in this thread so I can't go back and check.
 
Here's a link- http://www.jeep4x4center.com/1-body-lift-daystar-day-kj04504bk.html

Waggy springs flex awesome, but the tradeoff is that they are pretty soft which might not be great with the weight up top. I'd look into some of the RE or BDS or other brands of springs designed for a spring over application- or else order some custom built ones from Alcan. They are not as expensive as you would think, and they make great springs.
 
Any idea how many body mounts there are on a Scrambler? Bolt length, thread and pitch?
 
Any idea how many body mounts there are on a Scrambler? Bolt length, thread and pitch?

Pretty sure there are 6 in front of the wheel well, 2 at the wheel well and 4 behind, 12 total. no idea on bolt size, but Stainless used to sell the body mount bolts as a kit with daystar bushings.
 
Back
Top