Front yoke to oil pan clearance question

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I'm working on fitting the SD-33 diesel into my Jeep Scrambler. I'm wondering what amount of distance is acceptable between the front axle yoke and the motor's oilpan, allowing for motor movement. It's tight for clearance, and any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Craig

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

 

[notquitemusashi]

what kind of clearance do you have? does it rub @ full articulation? if it doesnt, then there is enough clearance.

 

[BOBCAT]

Craig,

Without seeing what you have is hard to determine. But you should be able to modify the front diff bump stop to ensure that it doesn't hit the oil pan.

Don

 

[kohldad]

Engine movement is the least of the worries as it should move less than 1/4-1/2". I'd be more worried about axle movement. Don't forget to account for side to side motion of the axle along with the articulation at full compression plus the little bit of axle twist at hard braking.

I never rubbed the front wheel well til I was hard on the brakes in a steep down hill with the left wheel flexed up.

That said, with yoke side in full compression, I wouldn't feel comfortable unless I had at least 1" of clearance.

You mean you are already in the fitting process and you haven't posted pics!!

 

[John N]

Isn't this what bump stops are for?

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Thanks for the input, guys.

Flexing out the suspension will be tough, as the motor is currently being supported by jack stands under the vehicle, and is not secured in the vehicle itself yet. It's definitely a good point, though, and is something I have considered. I just wanted to know an acceptable amount of clearance, and it sounds like 1" is a good guideline. It'll be tight, though.

There are a couple considerations:

1. It looks like a 1" body lift will be required to clear the "bulge" on the side of the bellhousing. The starter on the SD-33 is on the driver side, and is contacting the floorpan. With this setup, I won't be able to move the motor over to the driver side any further.
2. I know a 3-4" lift will be required to clear the front driveshaft with the TF-727 transmission. That'll also give more clearance with the oil pan, but I'm not planning on a lift initially. I'd like to keep the stock springs and just not run a front driveshaft for a while, until I can afford to buy the lift & regear the axles.
3. The '10a frame appears to have a built-in 2" BL, which is accomplished by higher body mounts on the frame, and thicker rubber for the body mounts. However, because the frame is based on a FSJ frame, it's hard to tell for sure exactly how much BL is achieved with the stock setup. Also, the FSJ frame uses a flush transmission skid (flush w/bottom of frame rails), so more BL would be required to clear the higher transmission positioning.

Craig


More pics/details in THIS THREAD, or the link in my sig.

First SD-33/TF-727/D300 fit:

The '10a frame is about 4 3/4" wider inside-to-inside than the Scrambler frame (remember, it's based on a full-size Jeep frame). However, the '10a frame uses a standard CJ hood, grill (even though it's missing headlights), radiator, etc., and the firewall is in the same position relative to the grill. So, in order to get the same fore/aft positioning for the SD-33 motor, I built a motor mount jig using some misc. steel & some old 258 motor (block) mounts. I'll be able to move the jig over to the Scrambler frame, bolt it into the grill mount, and know where the motor mounts need to be positioned, and at what angle they need to be. I can then start fabricating the motor (frame) mounts for the Scrambler frame.