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Genright fuel tank access door (CJ/YJ unit)

bigwalton

Alaskan Postal nutjob
FORUM MANAGER
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
Put this in my build thread, but thought it was worth a separate post.

For my stroker, I'm going in tank with a Tanks Inc pump in a new Genright tank and I got their fuel tank access hatch for the bed (since I adamantly refuse to drop the tank to deal with a pump/sender after putting three pumps in my Postal on the side of the road/parking lot of the part store -- yes, I know it may be because it was external, but even if it would have been one internal, it was worth it.)

This is a CJ/YJ unit and the directions are for a -7 or YJ and they want you to cut right at the tailgate opening. Clearly not a CJ-8 location. I immediately realized that in a Scrambler the hatch BARELY fits between two bed stiffeners. Glad I did a lot of measuring before cutting (it was really easy thanks to the two screws I had in from a tie-down, they gave me an easy point of reference top and bottom, I'd drill a hole center-ish for the same reason if I was installing this on a clean bed just for that reason--you're cutting that steel out anyway)

I also realized that the full "length" (meaning fore-aft) of hole they suggest in the instructions isn’t really needed and I only did 11.5” to clear the inside “lip” of the frame. Then I trimmed back the very ends of the ribs just enough to let it drop in flush. (The hole they said to cut would have been the full size of where I cut the ribs back to and would have gotten into both frame stiffeners or a good bit of one if I decided not to cut the other.)

I’m debating not bothering with ALL of the rivet holes and opening up four or eight of them and countersinking some stainless screws/nuts. I don’t really love the idea of rivets and the trim job I did was amazing because the frame does not move in the slightest when dropped in place.

Thinking about just putting anti skid tape stuff on the hatch, paint is just going to get beat straight to hell.

Would you believe that this is the first (and only) time the stock tank has been dropped in my ownership? (2002!)
IMG_7781.jpeg

Before the carnage begins. Remarkably good thanks to the World Cab never being off before I owned it.
IMG_7782.jpeg

I figured out that using the frame this way was the best way to mark the cut line. The notches for the ribs were perfect.
IMG_7784.jpeg

Marked… deep breath. I used a step bit to put 3/4” holes in the corners to get room for my hackzall blade.
IMG_7785.jpeg

Dread turned to excitement when I saw that I got the measurements dead nuts and now had easy access for everything. You can see the bed stiffener under the ribs on the front side of the hole.
IMG_7789.jpeg

This shows the trimming on the ribs. You can see the edge of the bed reinforcement below it that is left by doing the hole this way. It wouldn’t have cut much, but I didn’t want to take any more than absolutely necessary.
IMG_7793.jpeg

Dropped in. It fits exactly between the two ribs on the outside with VERY little wiggle room. The frame is basically locked in, with no wiggle at all, unusually good work for me.


Can see what I did versus the instructions.
IMG_7794.jpeg


So as soon as I had it sitting in place, I had to jam the tank in to see what the view/access was like… the tank isn’t fully in place and the pic isn’t directly above the hole but this will be absolute perfection as you’ll see when the pump goes in.
IMG_7792.jpeg

And with the cover in place.
IMG_7791.jpeg

It sits barely proud of the ribs.

I am STOKED about this now after being scared to death of the idea of getting this installed knowing how much I had to cut.
 

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Put this in my build thread, but thought it was worth a separate post.

For my stroker, I'm going in tank with a Tanks Inc pump in a new Genright tank and I got their fuel tank access hatch for the bed (since I adamantly refuse to drop the tank to deal with a pump/sender after putting three pumps in my Postal on the side of the road/parking lot of the part store -- yes, I know it may be because it was external, but even if it would have been one internal, it was worth it.)

This is a CJ/YJ unit and the directions are for a -7 or YJ and they want you to cut right at the tailgate opening. Clearly not a CJ-8 location. I immediately realized that in a Scrambler the hatch BARELY fits between two bed stiffeners. Glad I did a lot of measuring before cutting (it was really easy thanks to the two screws I had in from a tie-down, they gave me an easy point of reference top and bottom, I'd drill a hole center-ish for the same reason if I was installing this on a clean bed just for that reason--you're cutting that steel out anyway)

I also realized that the full "length" (meaning fore-aft) of hole they suggest in the instructions isn’t really needed and I only did 11.5” to clear the inside “lip” of the frame. Then I trimmed back the very ends of the ribs just enough to let it drop in flush. (The hole they said to cut would have been the full size of where I cut the ribs back to and would have gotten into both frame stiffeners or a good bit of one if I decided not to cut the other.)

I’m debating not bothering with ALL of the rivet holes and opening up four or eight of them and countersinking some stainless screws/nuts. I don’t really love the idea of rivets and the trim job I did was amazing because the frame does not move in the slightest when dropped in place.

Thinking about just putting anti skid tape stuff on the hatch, paint is just going to get beat straight to hell.

Would you believe that this is the first (and only) time the stock tank has been dropped in my ownership? (2002!)
View attachment 122677

Before the carnage begins. Remarkably good thanks to the World Cab never being off before I owned it.
View attachment 122678

I figured out that using the frame this way was the best way to mark the cut line. The notches for the ribs were perfect.
View attachment 122679

Marked… deep breath. I used a step bit to put 3/4” holes in the corners to get room for my hackzall blade.
View attachment 122680

Dread turned to excitement when I saw that I got the measurements dead nuts and now had easy access for everything. You can see the bed stiffener under the ribs on the front side of the hole.
View attachment 122681

This shows the trimming on the ribs. You can see the edge of the bed reinforcement below it that is left by doing the hole this way. It wouldn’t have cut much, but I didn’t want to take any more than absolutely necessary.
View attachment 122682

Dropped in. It fits exactly between the two ribs on the outside with VERY little wiggle room. The frame is basically locked in, with no wiggle at all, unusually good work for me.
View attachment 122683

Can see what I did versus the instructions.
View attachment 122684


So as soon as I had it sitting in place, I had to jam the tank in to see what the view/access was like… the tank isn’t fully in place and the pic isn’t directly above the hole but this will be absolute perfection as you’ll see when the pump goes in.
View attachment 122685

And with the cover in place.
View attachment 122686

It sits barely proud of the ribs.

I am STOKED about this now after being scared to death of the idea of getting this installed knowing how much I had to cut.
Love it.
Very Raymondish post. :thumbsup::rolleyes:

How's the other end coming along?
Can't wait for your report of the differences between the 4.0 and 4.6 performance wise.
 
Dang, that turned out better than I would have expected! I had trouble visualizing how it was going to fit with the ribs in the bed.
Great work BW, now I have another project to add to my list! :D
 
Love it.
Very Raymondish post. :thumbsup::rolleyes:

How's the other end coming along?
Can't wait for your report of the differences between the 4.0 and 4.6 performance wise.
The other end has the MORE motor mounts sitting on the front tire waiting to go in. I was going to throw them in next and get the stroker in (even though it'll likely come back out at some point before all is done) just to get it off the stand and out of the way and at least LOOK like I'm making progress. SO MUCH wiring left to do before that really needs to be in the Jeep...
 
Dang, that turned out better than I would have expected! I had trouble visualizing how it was going to fit with the ribs in the bed.
Great work BW, now I have another project to add to my list! :D
I didn't really care how it came out because it was 1000% going to be better than whatever I threw together... because I was 1000000% not going the in-tank route without having an access door from above. So I have no issue being a test mule.

Literally thought I'd drill/bolt hinges on the cut-out piece of bed and do some simple "stops" for the flap to sit on under the bed that I was going to drill/tap for a couple of round head bolts with a small handle of some sort.
 
If anyone has other thoughts on what to do for the top finish on the cover, let me know. It's aluminum, BTW.

I just don't see paint holding up...

Huh...wonder if I could somehow get the cut bed section to bolt in place of the aluminum plate...
 
Painted the cut edges in the Massey Ferguson grey I have all my armor and roll cage in.

IMG_7845.jpeg

IMG_7846.jpeg

Got a shot underneath to show the braces it fits between before painting the edges and cleaning/painting where the tank mounts.

IMG_7847.jpeg
 
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