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hydraulic clutch conversion?

I swapped when I dropped in the 4.0/AX-15 intact from an XJ. The hydro clutch is FAR better. No more issues with frame flex & the ball jumping off on the trail. Nicer operation in general.

If you have a painless harness the bulkhead connector is larger and kinda gets in the way of using the stock location.
 
tower210 said:
I swapped when I dropped in the 4.0/AX-15 intact from an XJ. The hydro clutch is FAR better. No more issues with frame flex & the ball jumping off on the trail. Nicer operation in general.

If you have a painless harness the bulkhead connector is larger and kinda gets in the way of using the stock location.
Click to expand...

That's not good to hear. I thought the bulkhead was supposed to be the same on the painless harness. I am planning a full painless harness replacement this winter. Any pictures or measurements of this issue?

Chris
 
The ball and socket can be eliminated to allow for flex, you just have to fab some stuff. Mine has been working for 5 yrs. This last time out though was the first time it bound up so I need to check things out. Pedal stayed down, only did it one time and was not in a great spot.

I used the existing mounts on the bellhousing and opposite mount, welded nuts to them to thread the shank side of a heim joint through. I can't remember if I cut each end to make it fit between the heims or if it already fit. I welded nuts inside each end of the bellcrank. Ran a bolt through each heim into the end of the bellcrank. I left it spaced enough that it has some side to side movement, but the heims twist between engine and frame. The heims also act as the bearing pivot for the bellcrank. Linkage from pedal was the 4WD or Qudratec heim kit someone makes. I can't find any pictures on my phone. I can take some tonight when I get home.

Doesn't solve your issue really, but the ball and socket part can be addressed for frame and engine flex. Reference i'm AMC V8 to NP453.
 
Jeeper_4_Life said:
The ball and socket can be eliminated to allow for flex, you just have to fab some stuff. Mine has been working for 5 yrs. This last time out though was the first time it bound up so I need to check things out. Pedal stayed down, only did it one time and was not in a great spot.

I used the existing mounts on the bellhousing and opposite mount, welded nuts to them to thread the shank side of a heim joint through. I can't remember if I cut each end to make it fit between the heims or if it already fit. I welded nuts inside each end of the bellcrank. Ran a bolt through each heim into the end of the bellcrank. I left it spaced enough that it has some side to side movement, but the heims twist between engine and frame. The heims also act as the bearing pivot for the bellcrank. Linkage from pedal was the 4WD or Qudratec heim kit someone makes. I can't find any pictures on my phone. I can take some tonight when I get home.

Doesn't solve your issue really, but the ball and socket part can be addressed for frame and engine flex. Reference i'm AMC V8 to NP453.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I would be very interested in pictures if you want to.

Chris
 
BDCCLARK said:
That's not good to hear. I thought the bulkhead was supposed to be the same on the painless harness. I am planning a full painless harness replacement this winter. Any pictures or measurements of this issue?

Chris
Click to expand...

Might just be the slave from the XJ is a little different shape... Here you can see mine under the hood

I haven't successfully gotten a pic from the inside yet...I remember thinking the painless fuse box is wider than OEM; even though the connector thru the bulkhead is the same....

I obviously made it work. My clutch throw was shorter; I didn't like it at first; now I love it.

No comments about the dust...my jeep gets JEEPED weekly :)

clutch cyl.jpg
 
tower210 said:
Might just be the slave from the XJ is a little different shape... Here you can see mine under the hood

I haven't successfully gotten a pic from the inside yet...I remember thinking the painless fuse box is wider than OEM; even though the connector thru the bulkhead is the same....

I obviously made it work. My clutch throw was shorter; I didn't like it at first; now I love it.

No comments about the dust...my jeep gets JEEPED weekly :)

View attachment 86169
Click to expand...

I thought the master cylinder went through the knockout spot just to the passenger side of the electrical bulkhead. Yours is below?

Chris
 
Fair amount of room between my master and painless bulkhead connector.

IMG_20200811_203032.jpg
 
Yep...the blue is where the 4 cyl clutch master went....

It's been 2-3 years; so memory is a bit foggy; but I remember 2 items that led us to the lower location. One is the nifty flange highlighted in red (that was part of the XJ cyl; might not be there on yours; we could have ground that to fit. If you look at the bolt that is completely outside of the bulkhead connector on the inside of the engine bay; that bolt is included in the rectangle of the inner fuse box.....highlighted in red in the second pic...It might fit...but it would be really close....

slave cyl.JPG


cyl 2.JPG
 
BDCCLARK said:
Sweet! I would love your honest opinion on how well the 5.3 runs, especially at low rpms, compared to a good running inline six.

Chris
Click to expand...
There are several of us on the forum with this or a similar setup. My honest opinion - it runs as sweet as a brand new vehicle, and has been no less fun to tinker with, but is not without its problems for me. I had been having a awful time tracking down a check engine light, which was bringing up two different sets of codes on two different computers I had. I spent a lot of time and money tracking it down - new fuel lines, new sensors all around, new gaskets all around, and I finally narrowed it down to a couple problems: 1) One PCM was programmed wrong, so it was always kicking codes related to the readiness of the oxygen sensors, no matter what 2) the MAF is incredibly sensitive to what's touching it. In my case, I found that when I took the filter off it would read fine. As soon as I put the filter flange on (not even the filter itself, just the cuff that secures it and in no way obstructs the opening), the readings would go wonky. I've found a happy medium where they're still a bit wonky but haven't managed to kick the check engine light on. At some point I may consider using a different variety of MAF - the slot kind.

Other than that, it has a ton of guts and I can keep up with traffic going 80+mph. It really feels like a brand new vehicle, and provided I can work the remaining bugs out (redoing the brake system now), I'm really excited to start driving it again.
 
D
walkerhoundvm said:
There are several of us on the forum with this or a similar setup. My honest opinion - it runs as sweet as a brand new vehicle, and has been no less fun to tinker with, but is not without its problems for me. I had been having a awful time tracking down a check engine light, which was bringing up two different sets of codes on two different computers I had. I spent a lot of time and money tracking it down - new fuel lines, new sensors all around, new gaskets all around, and I finally narrowed it down to a couple problems: 1) One PCM was programmed wrong, so it was always kicking codes related to the readiness of the oxygen sensors, no matter what 2) the MAF is incredibly sensitive to what's touching it. In my case, I found that when I took the filter off it would read fine. As soon as I put the filter flange on (not even the filter itself, just the cuff that secures it and in no way obstructs the opening), the readings would go wonky. I've found a happy medium where they're still a bit wonky but haven't managed to kick the check engine light on. At some point I may consider using a different variety of MAF - the slot kind.

Other than that, it has a ton of guts and I can keep up with traffic going 80+mph. It really feels like a brand new vehicle, and provided I can work the remaining bugs out (redoing the brake system now), I'm really excited to start driving it again.[/Q

How does the low rpm response and torque feel compared to the 5.3?

Chris
Click to expand...
 
I can speak to the 5.3 with an auto. My copper Scrambler had a 5.3/4L60E with 35” tires and 4.56 gears. I left the “torque management” settings on when I had the computer tuned. This “protects” the transmission when the various inputs reach a preset level that might cause transmission damage. Why is this important? Because it really effects the off-idle performance. While my Scrambler was really fast, it would not do a burnout unless you power braked it. The computer was protecting the transmission. But once it got a few rpm’s going, all heck broke loose. So- if you want bottom end, talk with your tuner about the “torque management”.

Stump Jumper ( Dennis’ Scrambler) had torque management removed. I’ve heard he can really hurt a set of tires.
 
Randyzzz said:
I can speak to the 5.3 with an auto. My copper Scrambler had a 5.3/4L60E with 35” tires and 4.56 gears. I left the “torque management” settings on when I had the computer tuned. This “protects” the transmission when the various inputs reach a preset level that might cause transmission damage. Why is this important? Because it really effects the off-idle performance. While my Scrambler was really fast, it would not do a burnout unless you power braked it. The computer was protecting the transmission. But once it got a few rpm’s going, all heck broke loose. So- if you want bottom end, talk with your tuner about the “torque management”.

Stump Jumper ( Dennis’ Scrambler) had torque management removed. I’ve heard he can really hurt a set of tires.
Click to expand...

walkerhoundvm said:
I've only had it on pavement, but it'll leave some stains in your drawers if you're not careful.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the responses fellas.

Chris
 
Here I am 5 years later several scramblers later messing with a hydraulic clutch issue and I come across my own older thread. Ha!

I am in need of some assistance. This jeep already has been converted to hydraulic, but not well at all.

The hole in the pedal is not at all close to in line with the master cylinder rod creating a fantastic bind.

The master apears to be in the factory location. There would have no way to drill the pedal correctly the way it sits.

I am looking for pictures of pedals that have been drilled correctly using the factory hole for the master in the firewall.

I am all ears on what others have done to complete this conversion correctly.

I am a fan of factory parts that I can source from parts stores.

Chris
 
This is my CJ7 factory 4 cylinder location. Still using with my 258 now. I’m thinking this is what you want. IMG_4220.jpegIMG_4219.jpeg
 
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