hydraulic clutch conversion?

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
#21
I swapped when I dropped in the 4.0/AX-15 intact from an XJ. The hydro clutch is FAR better. No more issues with frame flex & the ball jumping off on the trail. Nicer operation in general.

If you have a painless harness the bulkhead connector is larger and kinda gets in the way of using the stock location.
 

BDCCLARK

Member
LIFETIME
City
gravois mills
State
MO
#22
I swapped when I dropped in the 4.0/AX-15 intact from an XJ. The hydro clutch is FAR better. No more issues with frame flex & the ball jumping off on the trail. Nicer operation in general.

If you have a painless harness the bulkhead connector is larger and kinda gets in the way of using the stock location.
That's not good to hear. I thought the bulkhead was supposed to be the same on the painless harness. I am planning a full painless harness replacement this winter. Any pictures or measurements of this issue?

Chris
 

Jeeper_4_Life

Scrambler Rookie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Kingman
State
Ks
#23
The ball and socket can be eliminated to allow for flex, you just have to fab some stuff. Mine has been working for 5 yrs. This last time out though was the first time it bound up so I need to check things out. Pedal stayed down, only did it one time and was not in a great spot.

I used the existing mounts on the bellhousing and opposite mount, welded nuts to them to thread the shank side of a heim joint through. I can't remember if I cut each end to make it fit between the heims or if it already fit. I welded nuts inside each end of the bellcrank. Ran a bolt through each heim into the end of the bellcrank. I left it spaced enough that it has some side to side movement, but the heims twist between engine and frame. The heims also act as the bearing pivot for the bellcrank. Linkage from pedal was the 4WD or Qudratec heim kit someone makes. I can't find any pictures on my phone. I can take some tonight when I get home.

Doesn't solve your issue really, but the ball and socket part can be addressed for frame and engine flex. Reference i'm AMC V8 to NP453.
 

BDCCLARK

Member
LIFETIME
City
gravois mills
State
MO
#24
The ball and socket can be eliminated to allow for flex, you just have to fab some stuff. Mine has been working for 5 yrs. This last time out though was the first time it bound up so I need to check things out. Pedal stayed down, only did it one time and was not in a great spot.

I used the existing mounts on the bellhousing and opposite mount, welded nuts to them to thread the shank side of a heim joint through. I can't remember if I cut each end to make it fit between the heims or if it already fit. I welded nuts inside each end of the bellcrank. Ran a bolt through each heim into the end of the bellcrank. I left it spaced enough that it has some side to side movement, but the heims twist between engine and frame. The heims also act as the bearing pivot for the bellcrank. Linkage from pedal was the 4WD or Qudratec heim kit someone makes. I can't find any pictures on my phone. I can take some tonight when I get home.

Doesn't solve your issue really, but the ball and socket part can be addressed for frame and engine flex. Reference i'm AMC V8 to NP453.
Thank you. I would be very interested in pictures if you want to.

Chris
 

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
#26
That's not good to hear. I thought the bulkhead was supposed to be the same on the painless harness. I am planning a full painless harness replacement this winter. Any pictures or measurements of this issue?

Chris
Might just be the slave from the XJ is a little different shape... Here you can see mine under the hood

I haven't successfully gotten a pic from the inside yet...I remember thinking the painless fuse box is wider than OEM; even though the connector thru the bulkhead is the same....

I obviously made it work. My clutch throw was shorter; I didn't like it at first; now I love it.

No comments about the dust...my jeep gets JEEPED weekly :)

clutch cyl.jpg
 

BDCCLARK

Member
LIFETIME
City
gravois mills
State
MO
#28
Might just be the slave from the XJ is a little different shape... Here you can see mine under the hood

I haven't successfully gotten a pic from the inside yet...I remember thinking the painless fuse box is wider than OEM; even though the connector thru the bulkhead is the same....

I obviously made it work. My clutch throw was shorter; I didn't like it at first; now I love it.

No comments about the dust...my jeep gets JEEPED weekly :)

View attachment 86169
I thought the master cylinder went through the knockout spot just to the passenger side of the electrical bulkhead. Yours is below?

Chris
 

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
#30
Yep...the blue is where the 4 cyl clutch master went....

It's been 2-3 years; so memory is a bit foggy; but I remember 2 items that led us to the lower location. One is the nifty flange highlighted in red (that was part of the XJ cyl; might not be there on yours; we could have ground that to fit. If you look at the bolt that is completely outside of the bulkhead connector on the inside of the engine bay; that bolt is included in the rectangle of the inner fuse box.....highlighted in red in the second pic...It might fit...but it would be really close....

slave cyl.JPG


cyl 2.JPG
 

walkerhoundvm

Just trying to stay upright
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Cave Creek
State
AZ
#34
Sweet! I would love your honest opinion on how well the 5.3 runs, especially at low rpms, compared to a good running inline six.

Chris
There are several of us on the forum with this or a similar setup. My honest opinion - it runs as sweet as a brand new vehicle, and has been no less fun to tinker with, but is not without its problems for me. I had been having a awful time tracking down a check engine light, which was bringing up two different sets of codes on two different computers I had. I spent a lot of time and money tracking it down - new fuel lines, new sensors all around, new gaskets all around, and I finally narrowed it down to a couple problems: 1) One PCM was programmed wrong, so it was always kicking codes related to the readiness of the oxygen sensors, no matter what 2) the MAF is incredibly sensitive to what's touching it. In my case, I found that when I took the filter off it would read fine. As soon as I put the filter flange on (not even the filter itself, just the cuff that secures it and in no way obstructs the opening), the readings would go wonky. I've found a happy medium where they're still a bit wonky but haven't managed to kick the check engine light on. At some point I may consider using a different variety of MAF - the slot kind.

Other than that, it has a ton of guts and I can keep up with traffic going 80+mph. It really feels like a brand new vehicle, and provided I can work the remaining bugs out (redoing the brake system now), I'm really excited to start driving it again.
 

BDCCLARK

Member
LIFETIME
City
gravois mills
State
MO
#35
D
There are several of us on the forum with this or a similar setup. My honest opinion - it runs as sweet as a brand new vehicle, and has been no less fun to tinker with, but is not without its problems for me. I had been having a awful time tracking down a check engine light, which was bringing up two different sets of codes on two different computers I had. I spent a lot of time and money tracking it down - new fuel lines, new sensors all around, new gaskets all around, and I finally narrowed it down to a couple problems: 1) One PCM was programmed wrong, so it was always kicking codes related to the readiness of the oxygen sensors, no matter what 2) the MAF is incredibly sensitive to what's touching it. In my case, I found that when I took the filter off it would read fine. As soon as I put the filter flange on (not even the filter itself, just the cuff that secures it and in no way obstructs the opening), the readings would go wonky. I've found a happy medium where they're still a bit wonky but haven't managed to kick the check engine light on. At some point I may consider using a different variety of MAF - the slot kind.

Other than that, it has a ton of guts and I can keep up with traffic going 80+mph. It really feels like a brand new vehicle, and provided I can work the remaining bugs out (redoing the brake system now), I'm really excited to start driving it again.[/Q

How does the low rpm response and torque feel compared to the 5.3?

Chris
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
#36
I can speak to the 5.3 with an auto. My copper Scrambler had a 5.3/4L60E with 35” tires and 4.56 gears. I left the “torque management” settings on when I had the computer tuned. This “protects” the transmission when the various inputs reach a preset level that might cause transmission damage. Why is this important? Because it really effects the off-idle performance. While my Scrambler was really fast, it would not do a burnout unless you power braked it. The computer was protecting the transmission. But once it got a few rpm’s going, all heck broke loose. So- if you want bottom end, talk with your tuner about the “torque management”.

Stump Jumper ( Dennis’ Scrambler) had torque management removed. I’ve heard he can really hurt a set of tires.
 

BDCCLARK

Member
LIFETIME
City
gravois mills
State
MO
#38
I can speak to the 5.3 with an auto. My copper Scrambler had a 5.3/4L60E with 35” tires and 4.56 gears. I left the “torque management” settings on when I had the computer tuned. This “protects” the transmission when the various inputs reach a preset level that might cause transmission damage. Why is this important? Because it really effects the off-idle performance. While my Scrambler was really fast, it would not do a burnout unless you power braked it. The computer was protecting the transmission. But once it got a few rpm’s going, all heck broke loose. So- if you want bottom end, talk with your tuner about the “torque management”.

Stump Jumper ( Dennis’ Scrambler) had torque management removed. I’ve heard he can really hurt a set of tires.
I've only had it on pavement, but it'll leave some stains in your drawers if you're not careful.
I appreciate the responses fellas.

Chris
 
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