JeepnBlake's Junk

[JeepnBlake]

Specs:

81 CJ8 bobbed 11" off the back, originally a 4cyl

TBI 350 .030 over with a Quadrajet
SM465
203/205 doubler
Custom outboard with 1/2 chevy 4" lift springs greaseable shackles
D60 Front, lincoln locked 4.10s
14BFF Rear lincoln locked 4.10s 3/4 ton chevy disk brake conversion
1Ton Double Cardan shafts F/R
39.5 Iroks on 16" alloy
Warn M8000
Racing seats with full harnesses (need to reinstall shoulder belts currently lap belts only)
Cage like thing, fuel cell in the rear, custom bumpers F/R and side steps.

Picture time:

Original owner/builder on the left my old man on the right.

First day pics:

Less than stellar wiring job don't worry it gets reworked.

A few days later tear down begins:

In the shed due to weather:

Under hood wiring removed:

Interior wiring with custom dash:

Got wiring?:

 

[JeepnBlake]

It has since been reworked and is now fully operational I'll get some current pics of the dash and under hood wiring, maybe even a few full pics.


Details and build plans to come.

 

[Randyzzz]

Keep the pics coming...has a nice stance!

 

[bigwalton]

I'd say welcome, but I see you've been here a little while, nice job on the intro though! Great pics.

 

[WillyT]

I realize it's probably a few decades too late, but I have to ask...why start with an 8 and then cut off 11"? Wouldn't it have been easier to start with a 7? Not trying to sound like a jerk, but it seems like an awful lot of work.

 

[bigwalton]

Wheelbase. Lots more trouble to add wheelbase to a 7 than cut off the sheetmetal/frame end on an 8.

 

[Polarfire]

I totally understand why guys bob the 8 but like I've said before, the perfect trail machine is the CJ-6. Longer wheelbase, less overhang, still stock looking. Jeep had it figured out years ago, it just wasn't that popular.

 

[bigwalton]

Yes, just the frame strength issues to work out.

I'd love a -6!

 

[JeepnBlake]

Agreed with the above comments about bobbing 8s, CJ6's and LJs are good choices for the wheelbase and reduced over hang.


Remember though the PO who built it took if from stock to how you see it. I wouldn't have bobbed it probably.

Here's the update pics though

Much better

Dash:

Stock CJ7 top acme doors.

 

[JeepnBlake]

Needs a few things as of now:


The axles have 4:10s and they're lincoln locked, its a little tough on tires and the gearing could be a little lower, planning 5.13s or 5.38s. and a detroit rear, not sure about the front yet. ARBs or OXs F/R would be preferred.

Front DS needs rebuilt

Need to get a park brake added to the rear axle, thinking eldorado calipers since it's already got 3/4 ton chevy front calipers and rotors.

Need to get a tunnel cover figured out.

Its got a pinion leak and the PS gear box leaks, when this gets fixed it will likely be going hydro assist, tapping the box at least.

The speedo needs a cable and needs dialed in.

Need to get the stocker temp gauge working as well, needs a sending unit in the block.

Need to get the fuel sending unit to play nice with the stock CJ fuel level gauge anyone have ideas here?

A new winch solenoid wouldn't hurt either

Depending on how the Qjet runs out offroad, an OEM TBI may find its way in there sooner than later since this was originally a TBI engine.

 

[Kane]

Wow man those are some seriously angled front shackles. That looks to be about 75 degrees. How does that affect you front end when hitting the brakes?

 

[JeepnBlake]

Honestly I've never had to hit the brakes hard. I've only driven it on the street twice.

It drives straight as an arrow though, no bumpsteer, literally can be driven with 1 finger. The brakes are decent though, the oversize booster and master cylinder help in that department.

 

[bigwalton]

My worry wouldn't be braking, it would be limiting flex offroad. Just a little flex and you're not going to have any more room for the front of the spring to move forwards to let the spring compress.

Try flexing it out and watch what happens there, you're basically going to have solid mounts for the front and rear eyes. I'd see what you can do to move the shackle hangers forward about 1-1.5" or so.

 

[JeepnBlake]

My worry wouldn't be braking, it would be limiting flex offroad. Just a little flex and you're not going to have any more room for the front of the spring to move forwards to let the spring compress.

Try flexing it out and watch what happens there, you're basically going to have solid mounts for the front and rear eyes. I'd see what you can do to move the shackle hangers forward about 1-1.5" or so.

That's a good point, It seems to flex well, but it's hard to stretch it's legs in the driveway. I have a feeling that the springs have lost some of their arch. I'll get some flex pics soon.

 

[JeepnBlake]

Well it was 70 out today, and we cut some trees down so logically a flex check followed.

The very tip/corner of the driverside fender was right at 6' from the ground.

 

[Kane]

Looks like they are doing exactly what Walton said. The shackles are limiting your up travel. They should be moved forward a bit and then use a proper length bump stop for the limiter. The rear seems to be working well though.

 

[bigwalton]

Yeah, that's not flexing much for you at all in front. Take a look at what you can do to relocate those front shackle hangers. The rear looks like it has some more flex in it, but it can't do it with the way the front is pulling the frame off the ground.

 

[JeepnBlake]

The front driver shock had like 4" till it bottomed out, so I'd have to agree with you guys.


The problem is moving the front shackle isn't going to be easy.., what I may end up doing is moving the rear hanger back a bit.

 

[JeepnBlake]

Semi-bad news.


This scrambler is up on the chopping block. Since we never use this thing except for crawling once ever blue moon, we've decided to sell this machine and build our CJ7.


So what do you guys as the experts think this thing is worth?