LJ Advice needed

[GarScramb]

Need some help from you smart Jeep guys. I've gotten it into my head that my next Jeep needs to be an LJ Rubicon. (My next Scrambler is going to have to wait a couple years, sadly).

The LJ Rubicons I see for sale either have tons of miles on them or are priced from $20-25K. Seems like non-Rubicons sell for $14-17k with similar miles.

So my question is, how much cash would it take to make a stock LJ as capable as a stock Rubicon?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

-Gary

 

[bigwalton]

I looked at exactly that when we got ours new: could I get a base X model and add to it for less than a Rubicon?

I ended up with the Rubicon.

Now that these aren't new, it might be a little different, but I'd say you'd have to find a set of Rubi axles way cheap or you'd have to find either used lockers or a screaming deal on new ones (you'd not have D44s most likely though) and you'd have to have comparable tires on whatever non-rubicon you get. Because if you start adding new F/R lockers and tires on it, you make up that difference real fast and the 4:1 tcase ain't cheap unless you find a deal.

FINALLY made mine big last week, check the link in my sig

Good luck with whatever you do, they're awesome Jeeps.

 

[GarScramb]

Yeah, I've been following your progress in the other thread. I looks great! Thanks for the advice.

I'm really not looking for something to do heavy offroading with, just be able to take to the mountains and ride old logging and mining roads. Basically, just want to run 35s (I think LJs look kind of goofy with anything smaller- just a personal preference) at highway speeds and light offroading.

Does that additional info change your answer?

 

[bigwalton]

35s, wow, I could only manage 34s

Reminds me I want to measure their actual height...

I think 35s are ok on the LJ 44s, the other thing is that you'll have to regear to run the 35s comfortably on non-Rubi axles unless you find one already regeared.

edit: also keep in mind that it's worse with the auto, the looooow first gear in the 6-speed makes big tires VERY doable. I love my setup now, I always "dealt with" the low first gear when it was stock.

 

[GarScramb]

OK, your 34s look good. I was thinking they were 35s.

And you have sold me. I'll keep looking for a reasonable Rubicon.

Thanks for all the advice!

-Gary

 

[bigwalton]

Alright, keep us up on what you get

 

[GarScramb]

Check this out:

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...e=b&num_records=25&cardist=426&standard=false

Time to put the Audi up for sale.

 

[bigwalton]

Wow, nice. Shame it's the automatic. Otherwise it's the same as ours with just all the extra options, same color, dual tops, '05 Rubicon.


Amazing mileage

 

[zeeksta]

dont forget all ljs come with the rear 44 if you dont need a 4 to 1 case you can save a ton
most are 373

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I have a non-Rubi '05 LJ automatic. Overall, I love the Jeep. Take my $0.02 for what it's worth.

The front D44 isn't a "true" D44, and isn't a whole lot stronger than a D30. Yes, the axles do have lockers, but they're proprietary set-ups. The 4:1 low range probably isn't usable for 90% of Rubicon owners.

I will say that I kind of wish sometimes that mine was a manual, but I appreciated the auto when I went wheeling recently.

I'd look for a non-Rubi LJ, then upgrade it as you want. I'm planning on skid-plating mine very soon, and adding a high-pinion D30 from an XJ (and regearing in the process when I step up to 33" tires).

BTW, I only gave $20,600 for my non-Rubi LJ *NEW*.

Craig

 

[bigwalton]

It's the selectable lockers (that function as limited slips when unlocked) and the MTs over street tires that make up the big hit that your wallet will take upgrading. That's why I said you might be good with a non-rubi as long as someone else took care of those (or you just don't want them, but then the question is easy)

Not sure what "proprietary" has to do with anything Craig, the Eaton, the Ox, Detroit, any locker is proprietary.

With a lack of lockout hubs on these, a selectable locker is important in the front for regular 4wd operation in bad weather (snow/rain) and less wear on the tires. If you can get away with just a rear locker, which is a help offroad on it's own, then that's something you can leave off if upgrading.

 

[spankrjs]

Don't forget, the Rubicons also come with bigger U-jointed drive shafts, 4 wheel disc brakes, no slip yokes on the transfer case, most of the optional interior upgrades (A/C, cruise, etc) stock, 4.10 gears in the diffs (perfect for 33's, no gear swap needed). The 4:1 in the T-case is a little too low for alot of offroad obstacles, but that's why I got the 6 speed, stick it in 4th or 5th gear and you can get wheel speed out of it I drove mine out at some big sand piles where people drive sand buggies and the really fast 2wd 4-wheelers with paddles, it did OKThe Rubicon T-case is also stronger then the non Rubicon t-case.

I bought a Rubicon new in 05 as my DD/mall crawler. Even though it is not my hardcore trail rig, the extra cost when it was new vs a non Rubicon, the added features plus drive train strength upgrades, just didn't make sense not to get a Rubicon. Just my