Low voltage to ballast resistor

[willpriest]

Little help. I'm stumped. Engine runs fine for 15 min or so. When it is warm, it will just die and not restart. Checking the voltage @ the ballast resistor before there is a problem is 12V in and 9V out. When engine starts to stumble, getting 9V in and 5-6V out of the ballast resistor. I've already replaced the ICM.

Thanks,

Will

 

[willpriest]

Little help. I'm stumped. Engine runs fine for 15 min or so. When it is warm, it will just die and not restart. Checking the voltage @ the ballast resistor before there is a problem is 12V in and 9V out. When engine starts to stumble, getting 9V in and 5-6V out of the ballast resistor. I've already replaced the ICM.

Thanks,

Will

Wrong Thread. I moved it to proper area.

 

[scramcraz]

what condition [how old] is your battery? You should have over 12 v input to the resistor with a healthy battery/charging system. Most systems the resistor is bypassed and the coil receives full voltage when cranking. After starting it should basically cut that about in half to feed the coil. Sounds like maybe you may have a charging problem. No way 9 volts is enough

 

[willpriest]

what condition [how old] is your battery? You should have over 12 v input to the resistor with a healthy battery/charging system. Most systems the resistor is bypassed and the coil receives full voltage when cranking. After starting it should basically cut that about in half to feed the coil. Sounds like maybe you may have a charging problem. No way 9 volts is enough

I agree that 9 volts going into the resistor is too low. It only goes down to 9V when the engine is warm after a short drive. The battery is new. I'm wondering what could make voltage go from 12V to 9V by just warming up the engine. Also, the ALT gauge stays up @14V when problem starts happening.

 

[mysunnshine]

Are you getting the power for the ballast resistor from the red/white wire? Why are you running a ballast resistor?

 

[willpriest]

I am getting power from the red/white. The Ballast Resistor was stock for my model. I'm trying to keep it stock but sounds like HEI is the way to go for more dependability. This is a mostly original barn find that I am trying to sort out.

 

[scramcraz]

HEI is more better. Think the conversion is from a Ford 6 cyl. Been too many years but it was simple and never had ignition problems again. Not sure about the red/white wire maybe if you have a diagram you could trace the source and find out why the voltage drop.

 

[scramcraz]

Help; Coil and ignition mod. getting hot.

I am thinking I might have some wiring messed up, correct me if I'm wrong. Red wire with white tracer from ignition switch to + side of coil. White wire from ignition mod. to negative side of coil. The jeep will run fine, but the coil and the mod. heat up real hot, Is this normal?

www.cj-8.com

check this out

 

[scramcraz]

also google this:

red/white wire to ballast resistor jeep cj

 

[mysunnshine]

If I remember correctly, the R/W wire is already a resistor wire.

 

[FLCJ8]

This is the factory wiring diagram for my '83. The wire is the resistance for the coil feed, no ballast resistor.

 

[barrys]

HEI is more better. Think the conversion is from a Ford 6 cyl. Been too many years but it was simple and never had ignition problems again. Not sure about the red/white wire maybe if you have a diagram you could trace the source and find out why the voltage drop.

HEI is from a chevy straight 6 with I think an AMC v8 drive gear(some aftermarket gears destroy themselves or cam gear quickly as do cheap drop in distributors). The Ford swap is the "Team Rush" upgrade with a large cap, cap adapter, and coil from a straight 6 Ford.

 

[ag4ever]

If I remember correctly, the R/W wire is already a resistor wire.

Correct.