Meet Red, my 81 Restomod Build

Randyzzz

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The cover appears to be great. Lube locker too. But if you order one, chuck the hardware. I’m ordering some ARP grade 8 flange bolts.
 

Jeepskate

Insane in the Membrane
City
Christiansted
State
VI
Did you have those covers custom made or did you get them from somewhere like LSeats? Those are exactly what I want.

The guy I bought the Jeep from had the interior custom done (note the door panels & the redo of the run-of-the-mill center console). I didn't like the steering wheel that he had in it, so I custom ordered that (it's a reupholstered YJ wheel).
 

Randyzzz

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Back to the bolts on the cover. Both my FSM and the Dana web page list cover bolt torque should be 30 ft/lbs. However- most charts list grade 8 5/16 bolts as requiring a torque of 20 ft/lbs. Even the ARP chart recommends 24 ft/lbs for their grade 8+ bolts. So, something is amiss. In the past I have always just got them as tight as possible with a stubby ratchet. I think I’ll take the new bolts to 24 ft/lbs and call it good.
 

Randyzzz

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A while back I posted that I thought I had a solution for cracking seat bases. I checked where the set of seats was cracked and went into detective mode. I’m guessing that when the seats are tilted forwards for access into the rear, most people grab the top of the seat back to assist in hoisting themselves in. This puts a twisting strain on the inner seat frame, and because the folding bracket is in the forward position, the thin inner seat frame is all that keeps everything square. So, cracks form.

I also found that on the drivers folding seat, the folding brackets are a bit wobbly under my 285lb weight. I have also seen less cracks form on the drivers fixed bases, and the fixed base is not wobbly at all.

My solution? I welded some braces between the top seat mount rails on the folding bracket. This makes the whole assembly as stiff as the solid mount when locked down, and keeps the inner seat frame from flexing when folding. There is still a little play at the locking pins when locked. I tried to sleeve the posts with some 50AE brass, but it needs to be a bit thicker. I’ll order some stainless tube for that.

Here’s the pics. I used a rectangular tube for the forward brace, and some angle for the rear. Coated the whole thing with some rattle can bedliner. I think this should solve the cracked inner frame issue for good.
70E1F7C1-ABDF-4C80-8015-DD5ADD853787.jpegFEE63BDA-9033-4E2F-8C58-01ED1BC68518.jpegAE3E3402-9656-4B37-B83C-7AF7BE6D0C75.jpegDC1495F8-FF20-43F5-B77E-8DD2233316DF.jpeg
 

Randyzzz

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The ARP bolts came in for the front diff cover. ARP recommends 24 ft/lbs, so that’s what I went with. The factory manual rec of 30-35 is way too high for a 5/16 bolt. Old vs new, and installed. Bling, bling!DAA8A06E-15F5-4E0F-8098-3B41B8C17CCE.jpeg1632887A-EB8F-4F57-A9B8-C24043536388.jpeg Next I started playing around with radiator/trans cooler placement. I finally arrived at a placement where the radiator is back towards the engine, leaving an inch or so between the fan clutch and the core. I decided to stay with a mechanical fan for now. This leaves me plenty of room for a large A/C evaporator and also a large trans cooler. The radiator does not have provisions for a trans cooler so I’ll have to run a larger cooler with a thermostat. Ordered an evap and a cooler, time to figure out mounts. B3AD363F-A053-4B6C-A11F-63D26BA73826.jpegE265A61C-A6B1-4315-BDED-67CE10695BE1.jpeg02A98B27-E7C5-48E0-B37C-7457F87CC1AB.jpeg75046BC7-F755-4578-BB62-B89FB26187A1.jpegSpeaking of ordering parts, some are trickling in. Like the carpet kit from ACC, purchased through Morris. Looks nice and heavy. 4148510E-C3DC-4B3B-BC95-61C22C55D271.jpegI also ordered a Grant steering wheel through Morris. I wanted a 14” wheel, black, leather wrapped. Having it look like a wheel Jeep might have used is a bonus. I might have to get one of those emblems from Jeremy to finish it off. I have to decide if I want to leave the 5 bolts covered or exposed. BD9CC043-BB77-431B-8542-F89F24422210.jpegLast little bit- I couldn’t have the transfer case shifter stick a different profile than the trans shifter. So I ordered a chunk of 1/2” hex rod. Smallest size was 3’ so I’ll have some extra. Something tells me that threading it to fit my shifter might be difficult...D99D122E-D150-4973-B945-80912EF7619F.jpegThats all for now. Going to start playing with wiring. I’ve got a ton of stuff still in order- fan shroud, brake prop valve, multifunction stalk for the column, door lock cylinders...the list never ends!
 
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zr10054

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Gonzales
State
La
Spent a little time playing with cardboard and hot glue this afternoon. Mocked up a console concept. I like the front part, and probably the back, just not so sure about the center area by the shifters. It’s just the first try, going to keep cutting and gluing before making it out of wood and upholstery. The back compartment is 6” deep. I’m planning on putting the subwoofer underneath that.
View attachment 89497View attachment 89498View attachment 89499View attachment 89500
Good start, I need my center console to be high enough to be my armrest.
 

Randyzzz

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Thanks for the kind words.
I picked up some parts from the powder coater today. Had the spare carrier done, along with the rocker trim. The rockers had some imperfections, so I went with black wrinkle finish, and they came out amazing. I think I might just have to get a set of new t-bolts to install them!9016EE79-FD22-429A-A6E3-B2999C617E98.jpeg
 

certifiablejeep

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Bedford
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NH
Thanks for the kind words.
I picked up some parts from the powder coater today. Had the spare carrier done, along with the rocker trim. The rockers had some imperfections, so I went with black wrinkle finish, and they came out amazing. I think I might just have to get a set of new t-bolts to install them!View attachment 90972

I have had a few CJ7 and a couple CJ8 ones done... if they are straight, a semi gloss or matte finish looks nice, but if there are bumps and bruises, scratches that are just too deep, then this is the way to go!

cb
 

Randyzzz

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Hung the spare tire carrier today. I really like the way it looks. But I can’t imagine covering the wheel with a license plate. I might have to find a way to build it into the bumper. The tail light doesn’t have illumination for a plate, and I don’t like the way it would hang out anyways.
I found new rubber bumpers and end plugs for the carrier, but I can’t find the rubber wedge at the latch. Any ideas?

8353427F-EECE-4D89-B8A7-7B6E02AFCE38.jpeg
 

rstickley

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Randyzzz, I have been looking at the Vintage Air system like the one you are using and was told that I couldn't use the ls compressor. Is that true? I see you still have the ls compressor on your engine.
 

Randyzzz

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Randyzzz, I have been looking at the Vintage Air system like the one you are using and was told that I couldn't use the ls compressor. Is that true? I see you still have the ls compressor on your engine.
I am planning on using the LS compressor. I have not heard of any issue. However, I haven’t fired it up yet. I know Dennis Stump Jumper used a Vintage Air unit with his LS, maybe he has some insight.

-Edit- I just did a quick search and there are tons of conflicting reports on the web. Most of them are in reference to variable displacement car compressors, and the consensus is they won’t cool as well due to the Vintage Air units pressure differential. Something about the compressor running full stroke all the time at a lower pressure. Makes no sense to me. The few I found referencing truck compressors seemed to indicate they work OK. I’m going to run the truck compressor and hope for the best.
 
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don87401

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You can always put the license plate in the original position.

P1020033 resized.jpg
 

Randyzzz

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You can always put the license plate in the original position.

View attachment 91108
Thought of that but the Savvy LED housings have no illumination, and I really don’t care for the way the plate overhangs the tub edge. And I don’t want to drill my new paint for a later model mount. I’ll re-address this once I get to the bumper stage.
 

barrys

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East Norriton
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PA
Thought of that but the Savvy LED housings have no illumination, and I really don’t care for the way the plate overhangs the tub edge. And I don’t want to drill my new paint for a later model mount. I’ll re-address this once I get to the bumper stage.
There are illuminated license plate mounting bolts. I bought a pair for my trailer, misplaced them 5 years ago and found them last weekend. Gotta try them out soon.
 

Randyzzz

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There are illuminated license plate mounting bolts. I bought a pair for my trailer, misplaced them 5 years ago and found them last weekend. Gotta try them out soon.
I’ve seen those in use. They work well. I’m just trying to balance my OCD and symmetry without blocking the view of a nice wheel.
 
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designerRob

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Allen Park
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MI
I’ve seen those in use. They work well. I’m just trying to balance my OCD and symmetry without blocking the view of a nice wheel.
If you wanted a balanced look and symmetry with the gas fill, you could fab a mounting bracket off of the spare carrier that would position it similar to the factory location but not so much as to overhang the corner. It wouldn't interfere with the tailgate drop because it would move with the carrier/spare. Just a thought. And no drilling into the body.
 
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