- City
- stafford
- State
- va
no !
i have sold several full sets for $50 on ebay
i will check my shed,i may have one
i have sold several full sets for $50 on ebay
i will check my shed,i may have one
My NEW scrambler finally is here!!
- Thread starter tower210
- Start date
- City
- stafford
- State
- va
you pay shipping
- City
- stafford
- State
- va
- City
- Olathe
- State
- KS
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
Definately Ford shock towers. They take a longer shock than factory, I think a couple of inches. It also needs an upper mount with a sleeve in it. The original configuration slid over a stud for the top mount, yours has a bolt through a sleeve. You'll need a longer shock when you get then lift- if you go with a 2" lift, get the front shock for a 4" lift...
The tie rod flip just moves the tie rods onto the top of the knuckles, giving more clearance.
You'll love the Duratracks. We put a set of the 265's on my wife's Tahoe a few months back...they are awesome, and if you get into the snow, I'd have to say they are as good as, if not better than the BFG T/A's.
The tie rod flip just moves the tie rods onto the top of the knuckles, giving more clearance.
You'll love the Duratracks. We put a set of the 265's on my wife's Tahoe a few months back...they are awesome, and if you get into the snow, I'd have to say they are as good as, if not better than the BFG T/A's.
mysunnshine
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Phoenix
- State
- AZ
1. Don't mess with the shackle length until you get the correct springs mounted.
2. The tie rods were flipped because of clearance with the long-travel springs that were mounted on the Jeep before.
3. Unless somebody else in the past couple of months has screwed with the timing, don't mess with it. I recurved the HEI myself and set the total timing on the dyno using emissions equipment.
4. The Ford shock towers were installed to mount a shock with enough travel for the LT springs. If you are not doing anything oddball with the suspension, I'd just hunt down some stock shock towers and bolt them in the place of what is currently there. That also will help cure the shock mounting angle.
2. The tie rods were flipped because of clearance with the long-travel springs that were mounted on the Jeep before.
3. Unless somebody else in the past couple of months has screwed with the timing, don't mess with it. I recurved the HEI myself and set the total timing on the dyno using emissions equipment.
4. The Ford shock towers were installed to mount a shock with enough travel for the LT springs. If you are not doing anything oddball with the suspension, I'd just hunt down some stock shock towers and bolt them in the place of what is currently there. That also will help cure the shock mounting angle.
- City
- Olathe
- State
- KS
Good to connect to some of it's past. I knew the engine had been rebuilt, it appears to have a 4 spd (the VIN shows 5 spd). Is it a T-4 (or something beefier)?
Is it the original carb (or something different)?
Is it the original carb (or something different)?
mysunnshine
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Phoenix
- State
- AZ
It's a T4 in there. The carb has been modified to delete the computer control part of it and the carb is tuned already. The motor actually makes really good power for what it is BTW.
- City
- Olathe
- State
- KS
New Rubber is HERE!!!!
New rubber is here!!
After a week of taking care of mundane tasks such as getting a temp tag and new windshield (so it will pass inspection). I have taken my first step toward my scrambler restoration. I purchased the scrambler basically with rollers, knowing the wheels and tire size needed to fit my vision; so here goes!!
I like the overall look; lift and stance. They are 265/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs on Blackrock 942s. With the new rubber on and the chance to take it for a spin (it's about 40 here today); it really rides and drives pretty good. Wasn't sure I would be able to stand the 2.72's with the bigger tires, but it's not terrible. The motor seemed quite a bit better after driving for 30 minutes or so (I mentioned before the stumble off idle). It is a really strong 258, it wraps really well, I found myself cruising the neighborhood in 2nd. Originally I thought I would deshackle and put on a 2.5" lift immediatly, but having driven a little, that may wait until this fall.
New rubber is here!!
After a week of taking care of mundane tasks such as getting a temp tag and new windshield (so it will pass inspection). I have taken my first step toward my scrambler restoration. I purchased the scrambler basically with rollers, knowing the wheels and tire size needed to fit my vision; so here goes!!
I like the overall look; lift and stance. They are 265/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs on Blackrock 942s. With the new rubber on and the chance to take it for a spin (it's about 40 here today); it really rides and drives pretty good. Wasn't sure I would be able to stand the 2.72's with the bigger tires, but it's not terrible. The motor seemed quite a bit better after driving for 30 minutes or so (I mentioned before the stumble off idle). It is a really strong 258, it wraps really well, I found myself cruising the neighborhood in 2nd. Originally I thought I would deshackle and put on a 2.5" lift immediatly, but having driven a little, that may wait until this fall.
Last edited:
- City
- stafford
- State
- va
Looks great !!!!!!
- City
- Olathe
- State
- KS
Rubbing?
No issues so far with rubbing. My when I cranked the steering wheel to check the fronts, I was really suppised how much room was between the tire and the frame. Don't know how to check for rubbing during spring compression? Any Ideas?
Here is a shot of the front shackle
Here is a shot of the rear shackle
]
I was trying to detemine how much "effective" lift I was running right now. My understanding it that 1" of extra shackle = .5" of lift. I would guess these shackes are 4" longer than stock (and the reversal in front looks like it might be further from the frame than stock) and it is effectively a 2"-2.5" or so lift. What do you think?
No issues so far with rubbing. My when I cranked the steering wheel to check the fronts, I was really suppised how much room was between the tire and the frame. Don't know how to check for rubbing during spring compression? Any Ideas?
Here is a shot of the front shackle
Here is a shot of the rear shackle
I was trying to detemine how much "effective" lift I was running right now. My understanding it that 1" of extra shackle = .5" of lift. I would guess these shackes are 4" longer than stock (and the reversal in front looks like it might be further from the frame than stock) and it is effectively a 2"-2.5" or so lift. What do you think?
- City
- Olathe
- State
- KS
What am I missing here?
I crawled under the scram to diagnose a loud noise when starting.
And I noticet the bell housing and flywheel exposed....How is this suppose to work?
Is the bell housing adapter plate in (2) pieces and I am missing half?
I crawled under the scram to diagnose a loud noise when starting.
And I noticet the bell housing and flywheel exposed....How is this suppose to work?
Is the bell housing adapter plate in (2) pieces and I am missing half?
- City
- stafford
- State
- va
Inspection plate ??