- City
- Cave Creek
- State
- AZ
Burning season is about the only time driving down I70 won't put you to sleep. Coming through at night or at dusk is really quite a sight.
Needing direction...
- Thread starter cattleman1977
- Start date
- City
- Fairfax
- State
- VA
Thanks! My third row seat isn't actually built into the cage - it's mounted on a removeable frame that bolts through the floor in the front and uses the bolt holes for the rear rollbar mounts for the rear. I have a second matching frame that has a Pelican case mounted to it that I swap out when I don't need the third row seats. Here's some pics - feel free to copy it!
Attachments
- City
- Empoira
- State
- KS
Congratulations on #5. Modified one of my 8's with a 3rd seat out of a yj for Son to use, worked until the twins boys arrived making a need for seating for 7. Now it takes 2 jeeps to travel with cb chatter between. Yes that fire was a bad one. Hazard to the Flint Hills area when conditions are not right for burning.
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
Finally got the front end redone on the '78! (New ball joints, axle seals, and sway bar bushings). Took it to town this evening and had a hint of death wobble at 70 mph.
A new set of KM2's and she's running straight and smooth as an arrow! I love the 10.5's. My goal was the hiboy look. I think I achieved it.
Now it's time to get busy on the 8...
KSCJ8-
A cb in the truck and jeep will have to do for now. The hospital bills will be showing up shortly.
A new set of KM2's and she's running straight and smooth as an arrow! I love the 10.5's. My goal was the hiboy look. I think I achieved it.
Now it's time to get busy on the 8...
KSCJ8-
A cb in the truck and jeep will have to do for now. The hospital bills will be showing up shortly.
- City
- Mount Pleasant
- State
- SC
Yes you did! With flying colors! Nicely done.
- City
- Columbia
- State
- MO
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
Agree completely on the bed Polarfire. I've been researching a bed but cannot buy all of the bed components from LMC truck. If I can find a dent-side bed that is salvageable I'm considering it. That would require a complete paint job though. For now I'm planning on making some high sideboards with some organization right behind the cab out of native oak. There is a saw mill about five miles from the house so when I say "native" I mean it literally. I'm also thinking some alluminum under-bed tool boxes might break up some of the open space around the rear wheels. However, I've never seen an under-bed tool box stay dry.
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
Sounds good... I was starting to wonder myself if that might not be more appropriate.
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
Can anybody tell me anything about this winch and what it's worth?
It looks like the model number is MRV-B-7. 12 Volt.
Seems to work fine. Made a little grinding noise once but I don't think I had the control knob on the right setting.
Any comments appreciated.
It looks like the model number is MRV-B-7. 12 Volt.
Seems to work fine. Made a little grinding noise once but I don't think I had the control knob on the right setting.
Any comments appreciated.
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
Looks like a Warn M8000 with the freespool lever replaced by a knob. Should be a good winch, but probably not worth a whole lot.
I sold a good X8000i a few days ago for $450 and was really surprised I got that for it. Had it listed on Craigslist for probably 6-8 months.
Are you wanting to sell it or just wondering? If selling, I'd probably start at $300-350, and come down when it sells. You can probably get $250 or more for it just because it's a Warn and it works. The remote would bring $50+ on ebay by itself.
I sold a good X8000i a few days ago for $450 and was really surprised I got that for it. Had it listed on Craigslist for probably 6-8 months.
Are you wanting to sell it or just wondering? If selling, I'd probably start at $300-350, and come down when it sells. You can probably get $250 or more for it just because it's a Warn and it works. The remote would bring $50+ on ebay by itself.
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
A friend of mine had it to sell. I looked them up on 4WD last night and a new one was almost $900. He was asking $150 so I went ahead and bought it. Didn't think I could really go wrong at that price. My plan is to address any issues and put a new synthetic rope on it. I need to try to find a manual for it that will show me any maintenance issues and ways to repair it if needed.
- City
- God's Country
- State
- AR
For $150 you did great. It isn't the top of the line Warn, but is a good solid winch, and that price made it a very good deal.
They were $499 new for a long time, think the price just jumped up on them in the last year or so.
The remotes are about $50-75 for used ones on ebay, and you got a mounting plate too, so if it works you did very well.
They were $499 new for a long time, think the price just jumped up on them in the last year or so.
The remotes are about $50-75 for used ones on ebay, and you got a mounting plate too, so if it works you did very well.
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
Finally had some time to pop the valve cover this week... Not good:
https://vimeo.com/124658198
I don't see the point in just fixing this without rebuilding the entire engine. Im trying to decide if I should go with a reman ($1600-$2000) or have it rebuilt. Im waiting on an estimate from an engine builder in Strong City, KS. He comes well recommended and it's only about 30 miles away.
Not sure how long it will take either. I don't want it torn down all summer but I also want to do it right once. I'll probably have the transfer case and transmission gone through at the same time.
Either way I'm going to put a painless on at the same time. I'll likely put on a Weber and all new ignition system.
I also have some sheet metal issues that need addressing too:
Still needing all new suspension also...
Any input and/or things to do/inspect while engine is out would be appreciated.
https://vimeo.com/124658198
I don't see the point in just fixing this without rebuilding the entire engine. Im trying to decide if I should go with a reman ($1600-$2000) or have it rebuilt. Im waiting on an estimate from an engine builder in Strong City, KS. He comes well recommended and it's only about 30 miles away.
Not sure how long it will take either. I don't want it torn down all summer but I also want to do it right once. I'll probably have the transfer case and transmission gone through at the same time.
Either way I'm going to put a painless on at the same time. I'll likely put on a Weber and all new ignition system.
I also have some sheet metal issues that need addressing too:
Still needing all new suspension also...
Any input and/or things to do/inspect while engine is out would be appreciated.
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
I'd say I'm a manual guy. I'm really hoping to stay with the 4.2 but really don't want to pay a premium for it. I'm surprised that a reman 258 is not more available.
- City
- Cave Creek
- State
- AZ
My vote is to rebuild yours to your specifications.
But - a rebuilt 4.0 from a junkyard or something similar (4.0 head/MPFI on your 4.2 ) wouldn't be much of an economic difference I'd expect, but you'd be happier mileage-wise.
But - a rebuilt 4.0 from a junkyard or something similar (4.0 head/MPFI on your 4.2 ) wouldn't be much of an economic difference I'd expect, but you'd be happier mileage-wise.
- City
- Olathe
- State
- KS
I'm the same way. I associate my jeep with a manual, I can't even conceive of driving it with an auto. I'm keeping my eyes out for the unicorn xj or mj with a manual, so I can steal the head - FI - computer intact, with the option of the ax-15 upgrade.
cattleman1977
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Delavan
- State
- KS
Well found the culprit today:
We pulled the head this afternoon.
Cylinders have been bored .030 over and look good. (That's according to the man who is my maintenance manager - I've never personally been this deep into an engine before.) He would really like to rebuild this engine and I think I'm leaning that way. We'll check out the cam tomorrow but given the condition of the valve the cam is probably needing replaced also.
Take the head and have it machined, new cam and valves, and new painless and ignition system. I haven't ruled out a crate but I'm starting to think we can rebuild this one and end up with as good of product. Plus I think my shop foreman would like the extra money and is capable. I should be able to save a little too.
Any suggestions on what "ideal" rebuild would be given my current situation? I want to do this right once. I don't need a hot rod or a monster. My goal is to have a very capable rig that I don't have to monkey with for a long time.
We pulled the head this afternoon.
Cylinders have been bored .030 over and look good. (That's according to the man who is my maintenance manager - I've never personally been this deep into an engine before.) He would really like to rebuild this engine and I think I'm leaning that way. We'll check out the cam tomorrow but given the condition of the valve the cam is probably needing replaced also.
Take the head and have it machined, new cam and valves, and new painless and ignition system. I haven't ruled out a crate but I'm starting to think we can rebuild this one and end up with as good of product. Plus I think my shop foreman would like the extra money and is capable. I should be able to save a little too.
Any suggestions on what "ideal" rebuild would be given my current situation? I want to do this right once. I don't need a hot rod or a monster. My goal is to have a very capable rig that I don't have to monkey with for a long time.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
If you are looking at more power check out the Golen Engines (maybe misspelled) they have built the Stroker 4.2 think they call it 4.6 not cheap but a mean 6 cyl. I haven't checked in a while but Clifford 6=8 (if they are still in business)has things to make the 258 step up a bit. I ran one of their cams and valve train for a while in my last 258, still using their header.