I just hope it works. The steering wheel and the install kit should arrive in the next day or two. When I have the wheel on I'll hook up the charger and see what lights and doesn't. In a way I can't wait. Can't wait to see the gauge's light up.
I removed the pass seat bracket to find the handle bent. I've had this with other cj7's I've owned. I decided to bend back to it's original shape and cut an weld a bracket on it's inside to reinforce the bracket.
. Looks like it should work fine. Nice and solid feel. I decided to sandblast the feet of the roll bar and the seat bracket to get the rust off. Rust's not bad on the seat and just a coating on the feet of the roll bar.
. This section of the shop is around 40' x 70' and you can see all the sand still floating around in the air. This is about 15 min after blasting. 40 min. blasting and 1hr. cleanup.
. After I got everything cleaned up I pulled the parts back into the heated section and shot the seat bracket with Ospho and put the feet of the roll bar in bags of ospho to sit over night.
When I got in I cleaned up the metal of the Ospho and sanded the roll bar. Never realized all the chimps in the paint but got her nice and smooth. I then shot epoxy primer on them.
. Decided to unwrap the used front bumper I bought from someone. I found that the previous owner cut out a section of the mount (I don't remember his pics showing this). I know he had the bumper covered with bed liner but that wasn't a big concern since I was going to clean it up and paint it anyways just didn't expect I was going to be doing metal work also. I'll cut pieces of 1/8" flat stock to plate the sections that he cut up.
Decided to bite the bullet and cut the floor to make a hatch to get to the fuel sending unit. . I hate the idea of cutting the tub but since I changed the build from mainly restoring to mostly stock to building what I would like it made sense. I measure and cut the floor. I'm going to put strips of 18 gauge steel to allow the cut piece to fit into place.
While I was waiting for the shop to heat up I cut out the access hole. When done with that I turned my attention to painting the roll bar, glove box door and cowl vent. The roll bar came out good but the glove box door and the vent will probably need to be sanded and re-shot. The glove box looks like it has some fish eye (knew I should have re-degreased it before painting). The vent had some paint get on the top of the vent when I was painting the underside of it.
I ended up wet sanding the vent and glove box door. Had too much dust in the vent and what looked like fish eyes on the door. All set to paint again just had too much dust floating in the air from grinding the front bumper.
I ran out of sand for the sandblaster so I used a sanding disk and the grinder.
. During the sanding I found a dent that was hidden by the sprayed on bedliner.
The guy I bought the bumper from never mentioned the dent or the cut out sections or the mounting brackets.
After finishing the sanding I tried mounting the bumper and found I need to trim the mounting brackets. They were hitting the jeeps front brace, not allowing the holes to match up. A few minutes with the carbon blade and it's a good fit.
Finished off the day shooting primer on the bumper. I'll give her 2 days to set up before I do the body filler on that dent in the front. It really stands out after the spray bedliner is removed (I never even noticed when I unwrapped the bumper). When I spray the gloss black paint on it'll really stand out.
Put the wires together to connect the charger. Everything went good at first. Turn signals and lights worked good (One of the headlights I got from crown when I bought the entire assembly burnt up). Tested the wiring to the light and that was not the problem, probably a filament came loose during shipping. I then went through the turn signals with the parking lights on and that's where the problems developed. Drivers side worked great, passenger side front and marker light won't work when the turn signal was on. The rear passenger side didn't work either. Also the right turn signal indicator (in the speed hut speedo cluster) stayed lit (1/2 as bright as when the turn signal was on). It stayed on only with the parking lights on. If I pulled the bulb on the pass marker light then the rear pass turn signal worked and the grill pass lights turn signal didn't work. Also with the bulb pulled the right turn signal indicator (with the turn signal off and parking lights on) was not lit as it was with the side marker bulb in the socket. I ran 10 gauge wire from the ground block to the bold mounting the grill and fender. Then another 10 gauge wire from their to the bolt mounting the drivers fender to the grill. And ran jumpers from these bolts to the screw on the grill light. I even replaced the bulb in that light (incase the filaments were touching). No luck. I even put the old headlight switch in (running out of things to try). Lastly I disconnected the rear tail lights from the harness. It still has to be backfeeding somewhere. I'll go at it tomorrow, I'll come back and start again. My mechanic gave me some ideas which didn't work. He said it could be as simple as the parking light hot and the turn signal hot touching somewhere allowing it to back feed.
It has taken me 9 hrs but I found the problem. I ended up removing the rear tail lights and then pulling the bulbs in front (grill and marker lights). I unpluged the light switch and turn signal switch. Used the ohm meter and a jumper to check the harness. Nothing was shorting out or open. I then went through the turn signal switch and it was good. Then made spades and did a jumper between turn signal (flasher +) and right front turn signal. Still had the problem with parking lights on. During this I accidentally pulled the lead out of the socket. Went and soldered the end on and put back together. I then threw everything back on and still had the problem. But this time I had the lens off of the grill turn signal and noticed that it was flashing faintly (so faintly that you couldn't see it through the light of the parking lights). I pulled the other lens off and saw the other filament was lit (with the parking light on). I just removed the bulb and pushed the wiring through and turned it 180 deg. Pulled it back in, put a bulb in and that solved the whole problem. The Fu******* chinese made light was put together backward and what was crossing the parking light and the turn signal. Who would have figured. My mechanic said he wasted half a day with a tail light the customer replaced (led). He pulled it apart twice plus ran the wiring (checking for shorts or opens). Finally he figured it out, they miss soldered the circuit board. Another tail light and problem solved. What a waste of time, just glad it works.
If you look at the two lights you can see where I put a P and a T (parking and turn signal). See how they are opposite. I saw that when I was doing the continuity test and thought it weird (should literally be the same light). I was just so wrapped up checking the wiring that I missed the clue. Here's some pics of the speed hut lights
. The only question I have is to anyone with the speedo cluster and using the GPS antenna, when you put the key to run, does it peg the speedo dial all the way to the right against the fuel gauge. And it stays there. I'm in a metal barn building so the antenna may not be getting a signal. Just curious if your's does this.
9th Annual Secret Santa Gift Exchange Open! I opened the registration for this year's gift exchange a little early because, well, 2020 sucks and I like the interest and excitement of this tradition. There's no requirement to be a paid forum supporter this year, so any active member can participate! Check the sticky in the ScRamblings Section for details. -bigwalton