Prodject ZeroToWow
- Thread starter crash
- Start date
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
Wel, after a little vacation of getting the tow rig, the camper and the toy ready for memorial weekend and actually going over to play, I figured it was time to blow the dust off and get back to the beast. Plus, I was waiting for a couple of badly needed parts...
The dash wiring is now complete with the origional fuse box rewired a tad(added fused circuits into empty slots), add on fuse block and relays(fuel pump,cooling fan,OBA)
The dash wiring is now complete with the origional fuse box rewired a tad(added fused circuits into empty slots), add on fuse block and relays(fuel pump,cooling fan,OBA)
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
I decided a good location for the fan switch was just below the line lock switch's (3 position switch, Up normal operation, middle off and down full on)
Next I got the new SPAWL fan mounted to the radiator. I run the very same fan(1" smaller) in my 4.3 conversion in my toyota, and it has never even flintched to overheat, you can be 12" in front of the grill and feel the air moving, WOW
Next I got the new SPAWL fan mounted to the radiator. I run the very same fan(1" smaller) in my 4.3 conversion in my toyota, and it has never even flintched to overheat, you can be 12" in front of the grill and feel the air moving, WOW
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
Now was the time to get the plug wires done, I opted for the MSD wires, can't say enough about the quality and the durrability of the wires, and this set was a cut to fit which alowed me the ability to do them how I wanted and make them nice and neat.
Due to the header issue, a normal starter just plain and simply wasn't going to happen, so I went for a mini/gear reduction style. This particular one is a gm style motor made by Hitachi.
Once the starter was one, all the needed parts to actually make it a runner were there, and I was happy to say after about 5 revolutions, it caughed and then fired off, man those open headers are loud.
Due to the header issue, a normal starter just plain and simply wasn't going to happen, so I went for a mini/gear reduction style. This particular one is a gm style motor made by Hitachi.
Once the starter was one, all the needed parts to actually make it a runner were there, and I was happy to say after about 5 revolutions, it caughed and then fired off, man those open headers are loud.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
DOH...
Well, I had figured the clearance was going to be close on the water pump puley to the electric fan, but it ended up being closer than I really wanted it to be (decided to mount the fan about 1/4" away from the rad)
So with that, I had decided to go with a shorty water pump.
Now with this pump, it caused a couple of problems with the alt/ps pump due to mounting holes that were built into the origional pump, so the brackety will be re-done to make all fit/be safe(its going to be a battle, but I will figure it out)
Here is how the lower rad hose turned out
The one I picked out for the upper was way too far off to use, so back to the parts store today to try and figure it out.
Well, I had figured the clearance was going to be close on the water pump puley to the electric fan, but it ended up being closer than I really wanted it to be (decided to mount the fan about 1/4" away from the rad)
So with that, I had decided to go with a shorty water pump.
Now with this pump, it caused a couple of problems with the alt/ps pump due to mounting holes that were built into the origional pump, so the brackety will be re-done to make all fit/be safe(its going to be a battle, but I will figure it out)
Here is how the lower rad hose turned out
The one I picked out for the upper was way too far off to use, so back to the parts store today to try and figure it out.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
odds/ends
Got a couple of odds and ends also done..
Got the D-rings on the front like jeff had wanted it
Got the accel linkage all done (used a generic bracket kit that you can get at any speed shop) and only had to modify the the pedal assembly slighty to get 100% throttle
Got a couple of odds and ends also done..
Got the D-rings on the front like jeff had wanted it
Got the accel linkage all done (used a generic bracket kit that you can get at any speed shop) and only had to modify the the pedal assembly slighty to get 100% throttle
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
trans pan
One thing that really bugged me, was the fact of how low the trans pan sat, but there was nothing that could be done about it (only way around it, cut the tub and raise it, but I wasn't going to sacrifice the tub or the COG).
So, I decided to give the oil pan a little protection.. Its 3/16 thick, welded in 4 places and sealed around the pan to keep any crap from rusting a hole in the pan
One thing that really bugged me, was the fact of how low the trans pan sat, but there was nothing that could be done about it (only way around it, cut the tub and raise it, but I wasn't going to sacrifice the tub or the COG).
So, I decided to give the oil pan a little protection.. Its 3/16 thick, welded in 4 places and sealed around the pan to keep any crap from rusting a hole in the pan
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
SO I took a piece of wire, and bent it to the shape I needed on the upper rad hose. Ran into the carquest we use here at work, and got let loose on the biggest collection of radiator hoses I have ever seen in one place, and 20 minutes later, I had what I needed....
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
So now the tricky part starts, getting the power steering pump, alt and york compressor to fit onto the front of the engine...
After looking/figuring, I knew I had to get a billet dual pulley for the water pump, but after more figuring, I came across my first "goof" of the prodject. I put the shorty water pump on so I would not have to move the cooling fan, well, that is not going to work. Since I have to run the alt on the driver side, I have issues with ouw the pulley sits, So I had to remove(non returnable now) the water pump and put the origional one on, and will have to relocate the cooling fan when done.
After looking/figuring, I knew I had to get a billet dual pulley for the water pump, but after more figuring, I came across my first "goof" of the prodject. I put the shorty water pump on so I would not have to move the cooling fan, well, that is not going to work. Since I have to run the alt on the driver side, I have issues with ouw the pulley sits, So I had to remove(non returnable now) the water pump and put the origional one on, and will have to relocate the cooling fan when done.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
The real york mount..
Well, it tokk a little bit of guess work, but I finally got it done.....
I was going to ke it so you would have to pull on it to to get the belt tight, but that meant labor type work, so I decided to make it adjustable.
And ther it is.
And the adjuster for the alternator bolts to the york mount
Well, it tokk a little bit of guess work, but I finally got it done.....
I was going to ke it so you would have to pull on it to to get the belt tight, but that meant labor type work, so I decided to make it adjustable.
And ther it is.
And the adjuster for the alternator bolts to the york mount
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
Rear brakes
Well, now that I had all the parts needed, it was time to do the rear brakes/hub conversion...
There were 2 aspects of the rig we really didn't like, those BIG NASTY heavy drums, and the fact the rear was wider than the front (I always build my rigs with the rear narrower).
So, the conclusion, was to do rear disk's and dually hub swap (narrows it about 3-4" overal)
Here are the gatherd parts
rotors/calipers off 8 lug dana44 front.
weld on brackets (due to the offset of the dually hub, you cannot run a bolt on bracket)
hoses from caliper-housing off 87 astro van (short/sweet)
hoses from the housing to the frame, long suckers(don't know the application, just dug up a part #)
here is the corp 14 bolt in all its glory!
Those thangs are bloody HEAVY!
Well, now that I had all the parts needed, it was time to do the rear brakes/hub conversion...
There were 2 aspects of the rig we really didn't like, those BIG NASTY heavy drums, and the fact the rear was wider than the front (I always build my rigs with the rear narrower).
So, the conclusion, was to do rear disk's and dually hub swap (narrows it about 3-4" overal)
Here are the gatherd parts
rotors/calipers off 8 lug dana44 front.
weld on brackets (due to the offset of the dually hub, you cannot run a bolt on bracket)
hoses from caliper-housing off 87 astro van (short/sweet)
hoses from the housing to the frame, long suckers(don't know the application, just dug up a part #)
here is the corp 14 bolt in all its glory!
Those thangs are bloody HEAVY!