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Retitled: 83 Scrambler resto-mod finally gaining momentum

Bushmaster6 said:
Hope you all are well. After another 6 months of distraction... I'm back at it (again) and attacking the litany of smaller projects this rig needs with an emphasis on those necessary to simply make it safe to drive, of which lighting (brake, directionals) are near the top.

Symptom: in the array of front amber markers/signals (one each on front fenders and two on grill), only the DS marker illuminates, and it will go "bright" if I hold the directional in that direction, I get now light or directional on the PS except that the PS rear taillight will blink. DS tailight does not blink.
- I visually checked the main grounds in the engine compartment (battery negative to block, and two more that I could find touching the firewall)
- if I extract both the grill amber light bulbs, then both the front fender marker lights illuminate and both taillight directionals work, when I replace the bulbs the fender markers go out; my understanding is that each (grill and fender) is the ground for the other but I'm not sure "how" they do that and clearly the grill ambers are not grounding for the fender lights but rather shorting out that circuit
- The bulbs themselves appear to be good (filaments intact)
- using a multimeter I've tested for power to the two posts in the grill light sockets and get just under 12 volts on one and about half that on the other (guessing this is low voltage for marker light and higher voltage for the directional)?
- I think the bulbs ground via the two locking pins in the light socket, and I've cleaned the socket area and the bulb pins/metal parts with a wire brush
- do the grill light assemblies (the cup behind the lens) provide ground to the body via the two mounting screws?
Click to expand...
Yes, the front turn signals ground at the grill. You might have to remove a little paint behind each grill mounted light, so the metal light housing will ground to bare metal grill. I usually scrape some paint off right around a screw hole on each turn signal. Also, I will run a Dremel wire brush inside the grill turn signals where the bulbs plug in.

You might have to scrape some paint behind the tail lights, too.
 
spankrjs said:
Yes, the front turn signals ground at the grill. You might have to remove a little paint behind each grill mounted light, so the metal light housing will ground to bare metal grill. I usually scrape some paint off right around a screw hole on each turn signal. Also, I will run a Dremel wire brush inside the grill turn signals where the bulbs plug in.

You might have to scrape some paint behind the tail lights, too.
Click to expand...
Raymond, good to hear from you and thanks for responding. It took me awhile to put 2 and 2 together but I finally figured out that was my problem and did much as you described. I was mistakenly checking for continuity on the positive terminals and hadn't tested for ground. When I screwed the buckets back in I tested correctly and got continuity at the screws, but not in the bucket/light socket so I wire-brushed the back of the bucket and dremel-ed the socket. That helped a lot... my one oddity now is that the PS light goes full on (both filaments) at parking lights and then has no directional or flasher. I've ordered replacement running lights (a pair) this evening because these old ones were pretty raggedy anyway so, it may just be the wiring harness into the light bucket. Also ordered a turn signal switch because mine won't hold a direction (suspect that white plastic bit is broken). Another oddity (but good) was that the taillight would flash even though the front light would not but, different circuit. After I get all this working, looking into LED replacements and some H4 headlights.
 
Bushmaster6 said:
Raymond, good to hear from you and thanks for responding. It took me awhile to put 2 and 2 together but I finally figured out that was my problem and did much as you described. I was mistakenly checking for continuity on the positive terminals and hadn't tested for ground. When I screwed the buckets back in I tested correctly and got continuity at the screws, but not in the bucket/light socket so I wire-brushed the back of the bucket and dremel-ed the socket. That helped a lot... my one oddity now is that the PS light goes full on (both filaments) at parking lights and then has no directional or flasher. I've ordered replacement running lights (a pair) this evening because these old ones were pretty raggedy anyway so, it may just be the wiring harness into the light bucket. Also ordered a turn signal switch because mine won't hold a direction (suspect that white plastic bit is broken). Another oddity (but good) was that the taillight would flash even though the front light would not but, different circuit. After I get all this working, looking into LED replacements and some H4 headlights.
Click to expand...

Pull the bulb out of the offending socket and use a test light and see if it flashes, maybe just a bad bulb?
 
spankrjs said:
Pull the bulb out of the offending socket and use a test light and see if it flashes, maybe just a bad bulb?
Click to expand...
TL/DR: have continued troubleshooting and even replaced the lights and now have 3 corners working signals (both tails and DS front) but only parking lights on the PS front, no signal.

Long version: I continued to work on my wiring/grounds at the signal markers (lower grille) and eventually got power and light (with parking lights on) to both lights (dimmer of the two filaments), but under signal to directionals only the DS works. PS the lights remain on but grille/fender are constant on (no flasher). Another oddity is that both taillights are working properly (even if the PS front is not). I switched the lights side/side and discovered that the PS bucket, when installed on the DS behaved differently in that BOTH filaments illuminated with parking lights on. Weird. The buckets are old and due for replacement so I bought a set off Amazon (and reversed the wires on the harness as all the reviews said) and now I have (a) fully functional tail running lights and blinkers, (b) DS front running lights and blinkers, (c) PS front running lights but no blinkers (single filament constant on even with the directional stalk moved for a right turn). In the meantime I also tested my flashers and discovered that my Painless wiring harness has only one flasher (hazards flasher is missing) so I moved the turn signal flasher to the hazards and I get no light (at all) at PS front but working flashers at the other three corners.

I've played with the ground at the PS front lights and it seems like it's properly grounded. All bulbs are new.

Have read that it may be insufficient load on the thermal flasher and a recommendation to try a transistorized flasher (may switch to LEDs at some point anyway) so just ordered two (TS and hazards) to test that. I also bought a turn signal switch for the steering column because it feels mushy anyway so, add that to my task list.
 
Update to demonstrate what Randy said above: I was testing the marker lights incorrectly....


Since then, I've replaced both grill marker lights (new assemblies), I've replaced the flashers at the fuse box, I've checked all bulbs, and I still have the same issue(s). DS lights work correctly on park, full on, flasher, and turn signal. PS lights work full on, parking lights, but turn signal and flashers only work at the tail light while the grill/fender lights do not.
 
As I knew the turn signal switch needed attention I changed that and while I've got the steering wheel "off" (it was never really on but I now have the locking plate off) I'm going to address two big safety issues; (a) the horn never worked and (b) the steering wheel was never attached, only resting on the steering column splines. While I was investigating replacement steering wheels (eg: a Grant wooden wheel with adapter kit) I noticed that my locking plate may opening for the horn contact assembly is at the six o'clock position (not the the ten o'clock, as I think it's supposed to be... video follows... I say "bell housing" but I'm talking about disconnecting it at the u-joint through the firewall.
 
This truck will likely be on the market shortly, posting here for the forum members' awareness before I start dealing with the general public. Truck has sat too long with me unable to get her over the finish line and now I have a hard deadline: I'm leaving the country on another 3+ year assignment in Germany. I do have an option to store but not sure I want to got that route.

1. BLUF: asking $20k, photos here (https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kvcirm89c6mt6wJTA), and details follow.
2. This is an UNFINISHED project truck. It starts, runs, stops, turns, drives, but has not really been on the road in my ownership.
3. It's in extraordinary condition but, almost every component needs "something"... my goal was to (a) make it safe enough to drive (b) make it reliably roadworthy and then (c) knock out all the cosmetic and "nice to have" projects after (a) and (b).
4. Or you could undo what I did in the engine, sell the 4.0 and LS swap it. Let your imagination run wild...
5. License plate is from Florida, truck is with me in Colorado Springs CO

To save you from reading all 30 pages of this thread (which I'd encourage you to do, meaningful stuff starts on page 8), here's a summary...
  • 2005/2006 bought the truck from a local schuyster Jeep dealer near Ft. Hood TX, it had a rebuilt title due to an engine compartment fire (look under the hood confirmed that this was likely true as the wiring was a mess and the underside of the hood was baked); bought it as a running project but had a series of issues that prevented me from every using it regularly, did a few individual large projects (had trans rebuilt)
  • 2007 moved to Colorado (first time), installed Painless harness, spent most of my energy restoring my '86 CJ7 (later sold, a mistake)
  • 2010 moved to Florida, had issues with getting the starter/flywheel to mesh properly, one day discovered that the engine internals looks like tar, and then had a rear diff pinion seal.. so one day in 2011 or so I got a wild hair and started disassembling the whole thing and that's what started this snowball
  • took it down to frame, blasted, painted, and treated (internally with Eastwood frame coating)
  • swapped a CJ Dana 44 into the rear (think they're 3.31... memory fails)
  • Superlift 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift (the body mount donuts were toast so they had to be replaced), and a small shackle lift.. think the combined lift is about 3.5"
  • took the body to a professional shop and had it stripped, painted, and then put a bedliner under it (black) and in the tub (paint matched to the factory white), don't know if I'd do that again but, it's done. Paint job was a B+
  • bought a rolled 94 YJ and pulled the motor, put it on a stand and "rebuilt" it ... didn't do the crank/internals but re-gasketed all the obvious ones (RMS, oil pan, head gasket, valve stem seals, etc)
  • mated the 4.0 to the factory T5/D300 using advance adapters kit
  • serviced the gas tank/skid plate, installed new brake lines, mounted EFI fuel pump and filter(s)
  • installed a "Runck" rear bumper (was going for a retro look)
  • started assembling body on top of it and then was reassigned to Colorado in 2012
  • 2012: move to Colorado, began working on the wiring harness and finally got it to run/drive, had a custom exhaust installed
  • 2013: put in storage in Pueblo for a 3-year tour in Germany
  • 2017: pulled it out of storage and it's largely sat in my garage with minor work accomplished
Running "punch list" of what it needs based on my assessment:

Engine:
  • confirm all vacuum lines
  • pare down the YJ wiring harness
  • finalize all connections and wrap/conduit the CJ/YJ merged harness
  • permanent air filter solution, has a XJ intake tube but the filter isn't permanently mounted
  • service all fluids: the coolant and oil in the truck now have been in there for years (same goes for all fluids in the drivetrain)
  • road test
Suspension/steering/brakes
  • truck has a noticeable "lean" the DS, as many CJs do, but I've never figured out why
  • has not been aligned since the rebuild
  • bleed brakes (again); all components are new other than the vacuum booster
  • all five tires are "new" as of 2012 and have (literally) not seen the sun so, they are old but still have the blue on the raised white letters and no UV type damage
  • road test
Body
  • rear view mirror
  • side mirrors install
  • rear seat and seat belt (in the bed)
  • pinstripe the wheels
  • replace door pulls
  • replace shifter boots
  • replace shifter knobs
  • LED lighting
  • clean up the half-cab rear window
  • repaint the half cab interior (smooth it out)
  • door window regulators are incredible tight (I installed new gaskets and felts and they may be the problem)
  • install center console (I have a Tuffy on hand that needs a restore) with stereo
  • exterior door paddles (plan to change to black powder coated ones)
  • touch up the hardware (tie downs, hood latches etc)
  • install Laredo graphics (have not purchased)
  • I have a nice Kayline full-length soft top and the hardware but I'm missing 3 or 4 very small items, the company still exists in Denver and I appealed to them to buy just the missing parts and they never responded... probably easy enough to fabricate
  • eventually get the seats re-covered, they have slip-ons now
Electric
  • I think I've finally sorted the main lights (headlights, tail lights, side markers, turn signals) but want to upgrade them all to brighter units and H4 or projector headlights
  • no fuel level indicator
  • no h20 temp
  • no speedo
  • no tach
  • no oil pressure
  • trace/loom all wires
  • trim/eliminate the YJ harness
  • proper sized battery and tie-down
  • under hood lighting
  • dome lighting
  • run power to the winch
  • OBD
  • amazingly the clock works!
  • stereo system
HVAC
  • the 4.0 has a compressor but i have no other portion of the aftermarket A/C kit
  • the heater controls all bind and I'm missing the pull handles
  • I rebuilt the heater box, new heater core, and "upgraded" to the blazer blower motor but have never tested system
INCLUDED WITH JEEP
  • paint matched half doors from a YJ (with fabric half door uppers)
  • Kayline full length soft top (it's tan, not exactly sure of color code), it's missing two small hardware pieces from the support system, did contact the company to try and buy parts (they blew me off) but I think they could be fabricated pretty easily, top is used but all fabric and windows in good shape
  • Laredo chrome grille (if you want it)
  • two center consoles, both used, one Tuffy, one I think is an old Bestop.
  • a box full of random parts and take-offs, some for installing some as a reference
PHOTOS
PRICE
  • very hard to objectively value this vehicle as it's going to require the right kind of buyer but, taking a loss on it with and understanding that it's unfinished... open to feedback on this forum (not so much from general public ;)
  • If you want to call 719.510.9084
  • $20,000
 
I love this 8. If I had space I'd jump on it and make one perfect scrambler combining mine and yours. Good luck with the sale and enjoy Germany; great part of Europe.
 
I (we) have had a change of heart on selling this and will be storing it while I'm out of country. Thanks to those that reached out to me and made offers. I apologize for the flakiness; had the highest quality of buyer lined up but we ended up walking away from the deal (our fault, not his).
 
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