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Swapping Identical Axels -Do's and Don'ts

E

Emile

Active member
City
Wilsonville
State
OR
I picked up a set of identical axles (Dana 30/AMC20) from an 82 CJ7 (had to buy them in order to get the tires/wheels) for my 82 CJ8. The new axels are 3:73 and the old ones are 2:73 (that a plus), came with the tie rods as well. I'm planning on doing a straight swap as well as changing the brake pads, installing a new brake booster, new brake lines and new diff oil. What am I missing, what are my must do's and must don'ts.
 
Confirm ratios are indeed the same. You would assume they are but do you KNOW they came out of a running, driving, 4wd working Jeep.
 
General axle swap rule: rebuild the "new" axles while they are out. Install fresh ball joints, seals, inspect and repack hub bearings, new u-joints, turn rotors, new pads, paint.... Yes, it's costly. Yes, it takes time. But you have a currently operational rig and the "new" axles are unknown history, are already out and accessible, so make the most of it rather than wishing you would have put new seals in once it's under the rig and marking your driveway.

Same axle swap rule: verify, verify, verify that they are indeed the same. The nickle and dime stuff can get you once you think "It'll all just swap right over". It may not be applicable to CJ stuff, but I know I've run into issues where it was "the same" but also during an SAE to Metric swap or a mid year part revision at the OEM and thus NOT the "same". Fittings and adapters and off the wall stuff can eat your lunch sometimes, especially compared to just getting the actual same-as part rather than Frankenstein-ing an oddball.

Just my 2 rupees...
 
You might consider installing a 1 piece axle kit in the 20, if it doesn’t already have one.
 
I agree with 93_Fummins, although you can probably get away with just a “check and confirm” on stuff like ball joints and axle shaft u-joints. Unless the peace of mind knowing “it’s been replaced” is worth the time Snd effort. I would definitely repack the front wheel bearings, with new seals, and confirm that the pinion seals aren’t leaking. If the axles have been sitting a long time new pinion seals might be a good idea, but they can be a bit tricky with the crush sleeve. It’s advised to replace the u-bolts and nuts too, but IMHO that depends on condition of the old ones too.
So- what wheels did you get?
 
Randyzzz said:
I agree with 93_Fummins, although you can probably get away with just a “check and confirm” on stuff like ball joints and axle shaft u-joints. Unless the peace of mind knowing “it’s been replaced” is worth the time Snd effort. I would definitely repack the front wheel bearings, with new seals, and confirm that the pinion seals aren’t leaking. If the axles have been sitting a long time new pinion seals might be a good idea, but they can be a bit tricky with the crush sleeve. It’s advised to replace the u-bolts and nuts too, but IMHO that depends on condition of the old ones too.
So- what wheels did you get?
Click to expand...

Randyzzz said:
I agree with 93_Fummins, although you can probably get away with just a “check and confirm” on stuff like ball joints and axle shaft u-joints. Unless the peace of mind knowing “it’s been replaced” is worth the time Snd effort. I would definitely repack the front wheel bearings, with new seals, and confirm that the pinion seals aren’t leaking. If the axles have been sitting a long time new pinion seals might be a good idea, but they can be a bit tricky with the crush sleeve. It’s advised to replace the u-bolts and nuts too, but IMHO that depends on condition of the old ones too.
So- what wheels did you get?
Click to expand...
20210504_132829.jpg
Picked up 5 date correct white wagons. I just repainted them but need to add the pinstripe.
 
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