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RispoNY's Scrambler Build Thread - The 'Kit' Scrambler w/ Postal Top (PIC HEAVY)

Thanks Roland! You've been an incredible asset throughout this build!
 
Can anyone advise me on which is the best alternator and starter and battery (Optima?) for my build. I really have no idea on any of that stuff.

I'd like to get a power inverter for under my passenger seat, around 1200W, 2400w peak. Xantex inverters are supposedly the best so I think in going to go with them. I think I'd need at least a 200amp alternator. Am I correct?
 
I wouldn't get an Optima. They moved production to Mexico and quality has dropped off. I've run ONLY Optimas since the mid-late 90's, and the last couple I got had to be warrantied within a year (both purchased the same day, both died in under a year).

Odyssey seems to be the batt of choice now (also rebadged and sold by Sears under the Diehard Platinum name). I don't have any personal experience with them but that is what my next battery will be.

As far as an alternator, I've just got the highest output alternator that Autozone had for the Jeep CJ (think it's a 73amp?). I had a "high output" alternator for awhile, but it wouldn't charge at idle, and no alternator will keep up if you're putting a huge load on the system. You have a good battery and a decent alternator you should be fine. Some people upgrade to the CS alternators.

Some alternator reading for you.



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/alternator-upgrade-761156/
 
Take a look at my build thread in post #221. I've got a pic of the 94 amp alternator from NAPA, p/n 13-4356. You have to clock the case 90 degrees (just be careful and make sure the brushes stay in place), and then it's a bolt-in replacement. If you're not comfortable clocking the case, I've convinced the NAPA guys to do it for me before.
 
Can anyone advise me on which is the best alternator and starter and battery (Optima?) for my build. I really have no idea on any of that stuff.

I'd like to get a power inverter for under my passenger seat, around 1200W, 2400w peak. Xantex inverters are supposedly the best so I think in going to go with them. I think I'd need at least a 200amp alternator. Am I correct?

For what it's worth, I purchased a Mean Green 140 amp alternator online, it wasn't cheap, ~$350 but I needed the comfort of knowing that my 12v appliances would not be draining my battery faster than I could charge them, I also plan on installing a large inverter... I have a couple of fridges that I bought in Australia, they work like a charm but do draw the power. I also use Optima batteries, a red and yellow top. The red top failed after about 6 months but that's because my son hit it with a 40amp charger. I eventually purchased a CTEK smart charger and it keeps the batteries charged and ready to go when I am not in town.

I like the Optimas but I know they get a bad rap.
 
Can anyone advise me on which is the best alternator and starter and battery (Optima?) for my build. I really have no idea on any of that stuff.

I'd like to get a power inverter for under my passenger seat, around 1200W, 2400w peak. Xantex inverters are supposedly the best so I think in going to go with them. I think I'd need at least a 200amp alternator. Am I correct?

I have this alternator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/75-90-JEEP-...ep&hash=item19cf03f896&vxp=mtr#ht_1476wt_1362

Before installing it I took it to a local alt/starter shop and had it tested. It works as advertised on the test bench and works well in the Jeep. I don't remember if I had to enlarge the mounting hole with a 7/16" drill like I did my ole 90 amp upgrade. When I blip the throttle the volt gauge needle will jump to 14.5.

I bought the alt about a year ahead of installing it and misplaced the pigtail. I called and actually spoke with a real person on the first ring and they offered to send another right away.
 
My 135 Amp was from alterstart too. It worked, but didn't charge until my RPM's got up above 1000, so at idle it wouldn't charge. I ditched it and got a reman 78 amp (IIRC) unit from Autozone with the lifetime warranty. Haven't had any trouble out of it yet, and if i do, It takes 15 mins to take it off and go get a new one.
 
I wouldn't get an Optima. They moved production to Mexico and quality has dropped off. I've run ONLY Optimas since the mid-late 90's, and the last couple I got had to be warrantied within a year (both purchased the same day, both died in under a year).

Odyssey seems to be the batt of choice now (also rebadged and sold by Sears under the Diehard Platinum name). I don't have any personal experience with them but that is what my next battery will be.

I agree with this. I've had issues with Optima since they moved to Mexico. Had to warranty out two red tops for cells going bad. I wish I would have pulled my old red top out of my TJ before I got rid of it...it was 5 years old and still going strong. My next will be the Odyssey/Diehard.
 
Update coming soon!!! Here's a teaser pic, stay tuned

azy8a6ap-1.jpg
 
Wow

HELLO FRIENDS!

If you guy's are still out there (and aren't mad at me for holding out on the pictures), Im back! It's really been a crazy roller coaster and I just decided to shut the door on the whole project until I was able to regain my patience only a couple days ago. My last real update was almost a year ago, last summer, when everything was going smoothly and I was having a blast...since then it's been a total nightmare. Not to whine and mope, but here's basically what happened so you understand what completely put me off anything scrambler related.

1. My painter ended up doubling the quote on me, from 3k, up to 6k. The entire time throughout the discussion and deal making process, I was assured that the price would never rise unless I was first consulted. The reason being was simply that i could not afford to spend more on a paint job. After a couple months, they called telling me some of parts were unusable. Either they buy new parts or, to keep the cost low, i go and score out a new hood and new windshield frame, which i did (another 400). Then they called telling me the sandblaster used to coarse grit and they would have to do WAYY more work on prep which would bring the price up. That or I take everything back and bring it somewhere else to have it reblasted (another $1200). Then the guy dealing with me at the shop had personal issues in the family and took leave so my case got picked up by some new hotshot. He was the real cause of my woes. To look like a new money earner with his boss, he went ahead and told the workers to brace both sets of doors with steel like seen in my last pics, to weld the cracks in both full doors, etc. The next week I call to see if the parts are ready, and this new guy tells me that they are, but that I have to bring an additional $2,000 for all the work done. Long story short, I lost it on him for the price change but had to bite the bullet (because most of the work was for my own good) and just save up until I could afford it. A couple months later, I arrived with the extra 2k to pay off my debt and get my parts out, and thats when I was slapped with "storage fees" of another $1,000 and told to either pay up or forfeit the parts. Just typing this is having me fuming. Anyways, I went along and paid. After doing my research realizing that 6k for an amazing inside and out paint job is pretty decent and that at the end of the day no one I spoke to in my search for a painter quoted me anything close to that. Nightmare. Next:


2. I began tearing the axles apart to regear and cleanup. My scrambler is an '82 and I had the 2.73 gear ratio, and apparently that is one of the only carriers that won't accept larger 4.56 gearing so I had to replace both carriers and shell out another ton of money. I went with ARB lockers in the rear and an Eaton LSD in the front. When installing both carrier, they both didn't fit and after taking them to two different shops for advice, I final went to a machinist to regrind parts of the axle tubes to fit the carrier into. Nightmare.

3. While regaring I decided to upgrade my rear drum brakes and do the SSBC disc brake conversion. When I received the kit, I was missing countless parts and had major fitment issues which led me into a long warranty battle. Long like months long. Nightmare.

4. Bulltear Serpentine Kit. Do not even get me started. They have by far the worst customer service of any company I have ever dealt with. All their parts are quality, and they look absolutely beautiful, but when it comes down to fitment and QC, wow. My kit was missing 4 out of the 6 bolts and a 1" spacer to sit behind the idler pulley. After leaving countless (maybe 10) voicemails over the course of a month, I finally got in touch with them and they sent me two bolts and the spacer on my dime. They arrived almost 4 weeks and 10 more voicemails later. When the bolts arrived and didn't fit because they were far too long, I emailed them and called again and was told by email "go to the hardware store and buy them"....a 6.75 inch grade 5 bolt. Nightmare.

5. Lastly, and this one is the worst in my opinion. The underside of the tub is not undercoated. I don't know how, i don't know why, but it completely slipped past me. I mean, I've made mistakes here and there, but this one has got to be by far my biggest one. At one point last summer, I put it onto of the frame to get some ideas for my exhaust and noticed a little rust spot, then another, then another. Pretty much the entire underside of the tub is covered in a mix of dry cracked paint and surface rust everywhere. This means that someway somehow I am going to have to flip the already painted tub upside down and coat it. That's the straw that broke the camels back and that's why you haven't heard from me in an year. Sorry for the novel, but i felt it had to be explained. But now I'm back!
 
Now to fill everyone in. About a week ago I decided to get back into it and order some parts and finish what was left undone. So far, the rolling chassis/engine combo consist of the following parts, and I'm going to start from the rear end.

Chiefwahoo Crossmember
Aerotank 33gal tank
AMC 20 with ARB lockers
4.56 gear
One piece axles
SSBC disc brake conversion kit
BFG 35x12.50x17 KM2 on ATX Mojave Teflon's
BDS 3.5 YJ lift with FOX 2.0 shocks and Warrior shackles
Poly bushings and bumpstops all around
Dana 300 rebuilt
T176 rebuilt
Centerforce Clutch
AMC 360 bored .60 on MORE Mounts
Compcams Cam, Roller Rockers, and Magnum rods
Edelbrock Valve Covers, Intake, Carb, and Air cleaner
Doug Throley Tri-y Headers
Bulltear Serpentine Kit, Water Pump, and Timing Cover
Borgeson PS Pump
Powermaster 150Amp Alternator
DUI Distributor with Livewires
MSD 6AL Igntion and Coil
Fexalite Dual Electirc Fan and aluminum radiator
Borgeson Steering Shaft
Redhead HD Steering box on MORE Mounts with frame cross brace
ADDco 1 1/8" Swaybar with JKS Quick Disconnect
Drilled and slotted rotors from CQuence
Eaton LSD with 4.56
 
Engine somewhat dress up
IMG_3727.JPG

Some of the parts painted
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IMG_3848.JPG


All the axle components
IMG_3860.JPG

Drilled and slotted rotors
IMG_3971.JPG
 
Axles in
IMG_5973.JPG

IMG_5977.JPG

Rolling Chassis Officially done
IMG_6282.JPG
IMG_6287.JPG

Engine Dropped in
IMG_6292.JPG
 
Engine in with some pulleys and headersIMG_6401.JPGIMG_6406.JPG

Tub on to mockup the exhaust
IMG_9167.JPGIMG_9186.JPGIMG_9192.JPG
 
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