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My old 1981 SCRAMBLER returns 25 years later

Finally got the Scrambler out on the dunes today

I'm a slacker, no pics

It did great. Let's just say speed is now horsepower limited, even in the whoops :headbang:
 
Still having issues with the fuel injection. It ran good for a week and 300 miles and I found the loose intake bolts. Then back to the same old thing. After more testing, running, testing, pulling hair out, running..............It started quitting at the dunes last Sunday. (Thanks Will for the offer to pull us out of the dunes) Never did figure out the quitting, it ran fine by the time I got back to the campground. Holley had me send the ECU back to then for testing, so it's back to a carb till I get it figured out.
 
Still having issues with the fuel injection. It ran good for a week and 300 miles and I found the loose intake bolts. Then back to the same old thing. After more testing, running, testing, pulling hair out, running..............It started quitting at the dunes last Sunday. (Thanks Will for the offer to pull us out of the dunes) Never did figure out the quitting, it ran fine by the time I got back to the campground. Holley had me send the ECU back to then for testing, so it's back to a carb till I get it figured out.

Download your datalogs directly from the ecu and take a look to see why it's shutting off. Your ECU should be set up to auto log every time you key on......
 
Download your datalogs directly from the ecu and take a look to see why it's shutting off. Your ECU should be set up to auto log every time you key on......

It has the "eventlog.txt" that logs the major events. All it had was the key on/key off when I was restarting it. I didn't have a system log or a data log running at the time, and it didn't do it again in the 2 to 3 hrs of testing. I've had goofy stuff going on for the 2 months I've been running it, hoping they find something.
 
You do know that if you go to "Download ECU datalogs" tab under Datalogs, it pulls the direct ECU logs which log all the time and not when you actually trigger it right? I've put on probably 60-70 of these units so far and have had no issues other than self-induced stuff. I just fired up a project yesterday with a new Terminator unit on it actually.
 
I've got hours of logs, some from laptop, some from ECU, and system logs. It wasn't set to log when it started quitting. In between driving in the dunes I did catch that the tach would drop, and The tps would read 0% on the handheld, but the handheld would not go blank or loose power/keyed power. When it runs good the left and right banks are within .5 AFR's. when it run like it does most of the time the right bank is 2 to 3 points richer than the left. When it runs right it is like a switch gets turned on, banks are even and runs good. Might be one hill climb, a 30 mile drive, or a 2 mile stretch of flat road. No rhythm or reason, hot, cold, keyed on and back off......
 
If you had ignition loss, then it would show up in a log. Have you tried to wiggle the harness while it's running? Power and grounds directly to the battery? Where are you getting your switched ignition source from? Do you log fuel pressure? Post up a bunch of pics of the engine bay. Maybe I can visually see something.
 
The power and grounds are the battery.

The keyed power is the back of the fuse box, there is only one keyed source from the ignition switch, it is a shielded wire to the ecm with one end of the shield to the battery.

I don't have any pics here at work.

There is a 11 page thread on the Holley Terminator forum if you want to see it. http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?16106-Cutting-Out-Under-Load

Or If your willing to spend the time to here about it you can give me a call

Jeff
616-890-9310
 
Just went for two different rides, 5 miles each way, same route both times.

1st run with wideband in the right bank, 2nd with it in the left bank.

Afr's are the same as far as I can tell on two separate runs. One thing I did notice is the afr guauge is way more steady with the carb.

At idle it runs 10.5 to 11.0

down the road steady rpm, light throttle 14.0 to 14.5, med throttle 13.5 to 14, and 12.4 to 12.6 heavy throttle. Right where I figured.

It has a slight lean spike when you roll your foot into it, but no stumble runs as a carb should.

I do miss the throttle response of the EFI already.
 
Doing some more testing while the ecu is at Holley

Did a compression test tonight, all the cylinders are within 5 psi.

Plan on swapping and measuring valve springs this weekend.
 
Started swapping valve springs tonight.

I had a set of 2 year old vortec springs that only had 2000 miles on them from a new set of heads that I bought.

first I lined them up and checked the height, new springs all the same. Then I set a digital scale on the floor and made a pvc spacer to wedge under my vise that is welded to a building column. The "new" springs were all 120.2 to 125.4 lbs when compressed with the spacer, which is about 5/8".

The springs that came off the driver side were all visually the same height. 5 were within the 120 to 125lbs. One was 116.2 and 2 were 115.0.

I didn't check all of them for lash when I took it apart, but the several I did were about 3/4 of a turn past "0-lash"
 
Swapped out the rest of the valve springs this morning.

On the pass side..............

6 of the springs were in the 120 to 125 lb range

1 was at 117.2 lbs

and the exhaust valve on number eight was 111.1 lbs

So at 5/8" compressed they are within 12%

The next "test" I did was to shorten my preload stick so that when in the scale they were at about installed height. All of the springs were 74.5 to 79.2 lbs.
That puts them less than 8% spread.
 
Does it break up relative to RPM or load? Can you free rev the engine and get it to break up?
 
If you free rev it in a steady manner, it don't seem to cutout, miss, or be uneven left to right.

If I stab to peddle fast it will get a slight miss, can't really hear it, but can feel it and see it in the engine. A slight shake.

The red in the screen shot is where most of the trouble is, the uneven left to right bank. That is the area where I have to get the "happy medium" lean left, rich right for it to run OK. The blue area is not as bad but still has the trouble just not as noticeable. everything 60 kpa and less it seems to run great.

As for the question, I would say it is load rated, can't put a rpm or throttle position on the trouble.

 
That's where the highest cylinder pressure is. Ever thought about closing up the spark plug gap? Where is it at now?
 
The first set where AC platinum's .060
2nd set NGK standard plugs .035
3rd set NGK standard plugs .035
Current set NGK platinum's .052
 
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