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To build or not to build...

Gueon

Gueon

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Thatcher
State
AZ
I posted a couple of weeks ago about purchasing a new Scrambler, a deal too good to pass up especially as it was in my own back yard. The Jeep is a 1981 SR, all black and what I would call for lack of a better word is an Original Survivor. I am the 3rd owner of this Jeep, the 2nd owner holding for just a couple of months (he was not a Jeep person and did not get what he expected). The top and bulkhead have never been removed...?

We've had the Jeep for a couple of weeks now and have already had to replace the fuel pump and get the carb rebuilt; good times! We just finished stripping the clear coat off the rims and I replaced the step bumper with OEM draw hitch and chrome bumperettes so that my son could tow the stand-up ski to the lake; and Eric provided a replacement fender flare. This is a rust and dent free A/C Jeep, the frame is spotless and the engine is untouched.

Here's the dilemma... there are a couple of things that I want to do to it but not sure if making these changes will hurt its "original survivor" status. The crappy SR4 tranny is about to go, the 4th gear synchro is failing and I am not a fan of the narrow track axles. Our local Jeep shop here in town has a set of wide track axles (AMC20 and D30) as well as a rebuilt T5 transmission. I would like to swap in these components as well as move to an Old Man Emu 2.5" lift to soften up the ride from the "flat as heck" leaf springs that it is currently sitting on.

Will these mods hurt the value? I don't really plan on any other changes as I have the other Jeep to play with (well, the tow bar is coming off tonight); :-)

Some photos.















 
I say go for it and just keep all the original parts. Everything you mentioned is just bolt in so it doesn't hurt anything. Depending on how late in '81 it was built it may even have the provisions for the wide track shock towers
 
She sure is pretty. I would make those changes if I were you. I am a huge fan of CJ's with 4" and 33"x12.5"x15 BFG's. That to me is the perfect stance.
 
You're the one that will be enjoying it. T-5 is more desireable to you and the next owner if there is to be one. If you had bought it new, you would have ordered it with the T-5 anyway. If you want the wide track and the new springs, then do it. I think that survivor status is more about original paint, interior, and visible options. Others may feel different. Like Pete said, mechanical stuff can be reunited with the Scrambler at some later time if you want. Just keep that original body and paint nice.
 
Not sure about these statements . to me its original once ....if you make changes its then modified. Yes jeeps can be made your way but it wasn't born that way. Something that clean should be kept original born. 👍but you bought it so its all up to you in the end. 😉

Sent from my SM-N910P
 
My take-- go for it, and if you want add in a set of 33x10.5's to go with the OME lift :)

Yes it will no longer be "stock" but it can go back very easy. Also you are upgrading it with newer factory Jeep parts, very tastefully, so it will increase its value to many. Finally, IMO a Jeep CJ will never be an investment vehicle, so the pebble beach purist will not scowl at you for any changes.

Yj-8
 
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Wow, that's a great find!

After following your Scrambler and trailer build, your attention to detail is amazing; therefore here is another vote to 'build' this one the way you want.

Looking forward to following the progress.

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Either you go 100% stock original using all NOS parts and make a show car out of it (read big $$$$ and no fun in my opinion), or mod away. I've found the lines very sharp. Either it's ALL original and in perfect shape, or it's been changed and it's a different category of car.

I recently went through this argument over a 1972 Jeep commando that was nearly all original, but in need of a make over. I decided not to spend huge sums of money on a vehicle that I would be scared to drive. I'll spend a few $1000 and get a cool vehicle with a lift, big tires, a custom paint job, etc. etc. It'll be way more fun.
 
I don't know if I would go with 2.5 in wide springs in the front. That requires cutting the rivet in the front crossmember. Maybe just a CJ 2.5 lift with 31 or 32's and stock 15x7 chrome wheels. Unless you regear 33's will make that 258 a dog. Also if you go wide track find ones with 3.31's in them.

A small lift, tires and a better CJ trans won't hurt the value of that jeep. Like others said I would keep the original parts.
 
Why would you have to cut anything by changing to 2.5" springs? What rivit needs to be cut and why?

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
mysunnshine said:
Why would you have to cut anything by changing to 2.5" springs? What rivit needs to be cut and why?

Sent from my SM-G920V
Click to expand...

A lot of people re-use the original shackle hanger and just move it forward an inch (drill out the rivet and use the hole for the front bolt of the shackle hanger). This is not the only method (nor best method in my opinion)... There are also conversion shackles (which I wouldn't recommend either) which are shaped narrower at the top to use the factory hanger in it's stock location. I'd replace the old shackle hangers with stronger conversion hangers which uses the original factory mounting holes but placed the eye hole an inch forward of stock (M.O.R.E., or Crabree make them specifically for CJ to YJ spring conversions).
 
Only the width of the spring changes and not the spring length right? If so, then the location of the shackle pivot on the frame should not change.

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
In the front, YJ springs are wider and about 1" longer than CJ front springs (CJ rears are about the same length and width as YJ springs).
 
Spieg said:
A lot of people re-use the original shackle hanger and just move it forward an inch (drill out the rivet and use the hole for the front bolt of the shackle hanger). This is not the only method (nor best method in my opinion)... There are also conversion shackles (which I wouldn't recommend either) which are shaped narrower at the top to use the factory hanger in it's stock location. I'd replace the old shackle hangers with stronger conversion hangers which uses the original factory mounting holes but placed the eye hole an inch forward of stock (M.O.R.E., or Crabree make them specifically for CJ to YJ spring conversions).
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I will agree for the most part but bolting the spring hanger forward and inch is the strongest solution the longer spring. I guess either way you change the suspension so it not original anymore. I still would do a Cj lift on this jeep and not a YJ.
 
LetchcoreCJ7 said:
I will agree for the most part but bolting the spring hanger forward and inch is the strongest solution the longer spring. I guess either way you change the suspension so it not original anymore. I still would do a Cj lift on this jeep and not a YJ.
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Agree, I will be sticking with a CJ lift; I did not realize that OME did not offer a non-YJ lift.
 
BRKLYNZ28 said:
Not sure about these statements . to me its original once ....if you make changes its then modified. Yes jeeps can be made your way but it wasn't born that way. Something that clean should be kept original born. 👍but you bought it so its all up to you in the end. 😉

Sent from my SM-N910P
Click to expand...

Totally agree, I went the custom route with my build, but I recently bought a stock restored '84 Scrambler SR and I really like the way it drives. Hopefully I will use my custom build for the "trails" and the stock unmodified one for the streets. Originality is bringing more money these days. If it was an FJ40 with those specs you would be sitting on a $60k plus antique car, people used to laugh at that thought. The market for classics is fickle and CJ's will have their turn.
 
Others on here may have more knowledge but here is my take...

"Its only original once" is 100% true and mainly applies to frame off restorations, not changing a few items.

When you do a frame off resto, often little details change like the way (sound) the doors close and density of rubber bushings and other small details. A true collector can tell the difference when one is sitting next an original unrestored version. This is primarily of importance to the top 1% vehicles, FEW muscle cars, pre 1965 euro cars, and classics (Packard, Dusenberg, Pierce Arrow).

On the flip side, My neighbor has an unrestored 67 Fastback Mustang GT (A code, 4 speed), few dents and faded paint. I told him I would not restore it, it looks wonderful even with a few flaws, it has character. So while not a 100K car it too fits the "its only original once" category. If he wanted to change the wheels and put a 68 rear axle under it-- go for it, that is not a restoration.

Finally you will wait a long time till a CJ hits 60K, or even 30K. I know someone, somewhere, knows of someone that has a 700 original mile CJ, that sold for $$$$, but that is not representative of the Jeep CJ market, or the FJ-40 market, or the Early Bko market. All these things are only worth what you can get someone to give you, look at craigs list to get an idea of the real world, $20,000 + CJ's sit for weeks/months in some cases.

YJ-8
 
Tell that to the 60s-70s Bronco guys, they have doubled in value over the last 3 years. Jersey's collection is going to be a huge retirement for him someday. No one can 'crystal ball' the future of classic cars but CJs especially Scramblers have a lot going for them.


 
I personally wouldn't go with a bigger tire on that, but I'd definitely do the widetracks and good springs for ride quality. Completely agree with simply keeping it bolt-on and keeping all the stock parts, my issue with the bigger tires is that it no longer looks like the great stock survivor. Better springs and wide tracks won't ever be noticed by 99% of folks and even with Scrambler guys, if you didn't mention it was an 81, they'd never think twice about it having widetracks.

I agree with the comment that "survivor" means mostly body, frame and paint with nice use/patina and a FEW tasteful bolt-ons don't ruin that. It'd still be a survivor to me if you did larger tires, tires wear out and Jeeps are Jeeps and get lifted. I'd just lean toward keeping it stock height personally.

Regardless, it's yours and it's fully awesome, so don't worry about value (other than keeping original parts safely tucked away) and do what you want. :thumbsup:
 
revho said:
She sure is pretty. I would make those changes if I were you. I am a huge fan of CJ's with 4" and 33"x12.5"x15 BFG's. That to me is the perfect stance.
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture with this set up?
 
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