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Needing direction...

I did true-trac in back and wish I had gone e-locker. Not much more $$ for huge functionality off road. Tuttle and KS rocks are great fun, and pretty close. My son loves going.

 
cattleman1977 said:
Well that's good because I left my axels with him yesterday. He spent almost two hours with me. Based off my end goals he suggested 4.10 gears coupled with my T176 transmission and 33" tires. It currently has 2.73 gearing. I'm also putting posi-trac in the rear axel but decided against a locker at this point. I doubt I'll have the opportunity for hard core wheeling often so simple is maybe better... If any of you disagree I'd like to hear why. It is going to cost more than I'd like but given my limited experience with axels and all of the other things I need to do myself I decided to farm the axels out. I've reached the point where if this (and some projects at home) is going to get done I just can't do it all myself.

Also ordered a 4" rough country lift. I have a 2" rough country on my '78 ford and am happy with it. The money I'll save vs. a bds or re will allow me to do some other things.

He showed me several projects he's working on, it was all very impressive. It will cost about $700 to have the frame powder coated but I'm leaning towards wire wheeling it myself and using POR15.[emoji848]

After looking at a cage he built for a CJ-7 I will probably have him build a family cage that will be tied to the frame. I wish that wasn't necessary because I prefer the stock roll bar look but I am going to make this thing a six passenger jeep for myself and my family. If anyone has pictures of nice full cages I'd like to see them.

The body shop is working on my tin work. I need to order a windshield and frame and also a tailgate. Any suggestions on crown vs. omix-Ada?

I know it's sacrilege around here but I was very impressed with the line-x in a 7 he's building. I think I'm going to do my interior and underside like it.

This is where things get fun (& agonizing). I'm excited to start ordering parts and putting things back together. Thanks for all of your suggestions.
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Look at the cage that Manhattan did for his build. That one looks pretty clean to me.
 
tower210 said:
I did true-trac in back and wish I had gone e-locker. Not much more $$ for huge functionality off road. Tuttle and KS rocks are great fun, and pretty close. My son loves going.
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I assume true-track is what Mike called posi-trac? That's the one thing I've been on the fence about.
 
According to Mike, for an additional $300 over the posi-trac I can get an e-locker by auburn. It's posi-trac until you engage it but once engaged it's locked. Seems like the best of both worlds to me. Appreciate the feedback tower210.
 
True trac is made by Detroit, but works like a limited slip. Great around town on corners. Really quiet and smooth. Works good on the the trail until you lift a wheel.


 
Get good shocks for your lift. Like Bilstien 5100's. It will make a world of difference in the ride.

I think POR15 or other chassis paint is better for the frame IMO. My experience with powder coat is that once it is chipped it tends to all flake off.

For windshield and tailgate and other body parts OEM is best. Classic Enterprises would probably be second.
 
What "posi trac" is he putting in? Most limited slips are clutch driven and wear out. The Truetrac is a great unit and doesn't use clutches so it will last much, much longer. Only place a truetrac isn't great is rockcrawling. If you don't plan on having wheels off the ground the truetrac is the way to go.

I like Tractor Supply implement paint with hardener. Dries hard, tough, cheap, and easy to touch up.

The Rough Country lifts are.....rough. BDS or Old Man Emu are supposed to be the cream of the crop on Jeep lifts. Mine have Rancho lifts, which ride like a buckboard wagon, but I got them cheap.

I'd also echo used OEM body parts if you can find them. Much better than anything being made now.
 
I use the after market windshield frame and tailgate on both my Scramblers with no problems so far.
 
The Auburn Limited Slips use clutches which will wear out. That said, the Ected still has a selectable locker so even with a worn out LSD clutches you'd have the selectable locker, which is the best diff for off road (full locker).

If you get a LSD, get a truetrac. If you get a locker, something like the Ected, Ox, or ARB are all selectable so they'd be invisible on the street and give you full traction off road.
 
Just FYI, stripping doors is a bear:

cf4eb45fd289451d3f2cefdb7cb50a76-1.jpg


Started with a full door, gave up and went to a 1/2.

44fea2a83d7a3b8400486997472e6c6f-1.jpg


Still don't have any completed.
 
wm69 said:
BDS or Old Man Emu are supposed to be the cream of the crop on Jeep lifts.
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Perfect timing for this then: http://currentissue.jpfreek.com/publication/?i=303540&ver=html5&p=84

Just put a BDS YJ 5" lift on the Postal using their wider front shackle hangers and the front YJ springs front and rear and drove it to Moab for EJS. With the weight of the World Cab hardtop, full cage and armor, I had issues in the rear with it sagging too much and went with a pair of add-a-leafs. Now that I have the hard top off, the springs are MUCH happier and I may be able to pull out one of the add-a-leafs, the World Cab is HEAVY.

Unfortunately, my install of the lift got delayed and compressed into the couple days immediately before I left for EJS due to my father's passing, so things did not go smoothly for me, but that wasn't BDS' fault or the springs, I just rushed everything way too much.

With my RE lift, I'd removed the swaybar, but the BDS springs are SO supple that I needed to put the swaybar back on with JKS Quicker Disconnects. Really interested to get it offroad without the World Cab now...
 

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CHIEFWAHO said:
Wow! Is that what Youngs quoted?
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It's been awhile since I've talked to them but it seems like they were around $400-500. I've seen a POR15 frame and liked the looks of it. I'm leaning toward blasting it myself and going that route.

I'm going a lot farther than I originally intended so my budget has expanded considerably. I don't have unlimited funds (mostly I'm a tight a$$) so I'm going to try and tackle some projects myself that will still give me a good outcome. I don't want to shortcut things I'll eventually regret.

Plan as it stands now:

1. 4X4 Land is completely rebuilding axles with 4.10 gears and Auburn ECTED locker on the rear differential. (Some on here have opposed it but Mike recommended it for my intended use and he seemed knowledgeable enough.)

2. Body is getting reworked. After looking at it yesterday I'm probably going to breakdown and buy a new bed floor from classic enterprises. I've considered using sheet steel but I doubt I'll like the outcome as much. Repainting chestnut brown metallic but possibly with a touch more metal flake. Ultimately, I will put original decals back on.

3. 4" rough country lift has been ordered along with nitro shocks. Again somewhat of a compromise but I've been happy with the 2" RC lift I put in my '78 ford.

4. 258 engine with T176. Going to have engine looked over (reman engine with less than 10,000 miles on it) and have transmission rebuilt. I have two Dana 300's. Hopefully, the one I purchased with reman engine is in good shape. If not it will be rebuilt. Also going to twin stick it.

5. Hardware kit from totally stainless.

6. New fuel and brake lines from classic tube.

7. I know it will not be popular among some here but I will likely line-x the undercarriage and interior AFTER PAINT.

8. New seats up front and two bench seats in the rear that will be tied into a full cage. I prefer the look of factory roll bar but don't see a way around the family cage given that I have 5 kids.

9. Restoring a set of wrangler 1/2 doors in addition to full doors.

10. I have a cj-7 wiring harness to clean up and modify or I'll buy a painless. More likely restore the 7 harness.

11. Considering rockers with tubes from 4X4 Land. However, I do like the look of the chrome rockers??? Also planning on keeping chrome grill overlay???

Things I'm needing OEM if anyone has it:

1. New windshield frame and glass.

2. Tailgate

3. I think I was able to buy 20 gal tank posted in third party sales last night.

I know this is lengthy but it's a good way for me to organize my plan where I can't lose it.

My intended use is to have fun with my family. This will primarily be here in eastern Kansas so nothing too hard core. But hopefully the occasional trip to Colorado and maybe a national event next year.[emoji1317] I want to keep it mostly stock but since I have a tendency to not sell things I have no problem making it my own to meet my purpose. My goal is to have it drivable by fall.

I see this as a way to have a side by side type utv that is street legal, that I can work on, and will seat 6. Plus, the cool factor will be EXPONENTIALLY GREATER!!!

Thank you all for your good feedback so far.
 
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tower210 said:
I don't know anyone running the Ected, but it sounds like the best of both worlds. Limited slip with locking capability.
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I'm running Ecteds in mine. Front and rear- have only ever engaged the rear but it works like a champ. Locks up immediately, and unlocks either right away or within a turn or two. The limited slip unlocked is awesome too, so good I rarely lock it up.
 
Randyzzz said:
I'm running Ecteds in mine. Front and rear- have only ever engaged the rear but it works like a champ. Locks up immediately, and unlocks either right away or within a turn or two. The limited slip unlocked is awesome too, so good I rarely lock it up.
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That is great to hear. It sounds like a good system to me but I'm not very educated on it so I'm glad to hear it's working well for someone.
 
I run an ected in the rear of mine with 32"s and It works great. I'd have to agree with Randy, most of the time the limited slip does everything I need.

I have an extra tailgate and a 20 gallon tank if you still need one.
 
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