- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
That’s a good idea. I’ll look into that. Thank you!
Meet Red, my 81 Restomod Build
- Thread starter Randyzzz
- Start date
- City
- Allen Park
- State
- MI
A down side I thought of is it could be in the way (sticking out) when swinging the tire carrier open. Could the bracket fold against the tire tread if desired? Hmmm
Another option could be to fab a bracket that mounts to the rear cross member independent of the bumper or body. The problem with that is getting the plate to not over hang the body and not interfere with the tailgate drop.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
When you get around to it, these are what I used on the CJ6.
Lite'N Boltz™ LED License Plate Lighting Kit
Lite'N Boltz™ LED License Plate Lighting Kit
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
All great thoughts. I’ll come up with something...
- City
- Gonzales
- State
- La
I've been running the LS compressor that came on my 5.3 engine that had 100,000 miles on it. Ran it for 4 years and it quit working in September. I'll just put another one and hope for the best.
- City
- Farmington
- State
- NM
I don't know if this would be of interest to you or not. Says TJ/LJ.....maybe able to fab a bracket from the normal tail light mounting on a CJ to hold this.
warriorproducts.com
Jeep TJ / LJ Side Mount License Plate Mount w/ Light
1997 - 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ Side Mount License Plate Mount w/ Light
warriorproducts.com
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
Interesting. Thanks!I don't know if this would be of interest to you or not. Says TJ/LJ.....maybe able to fab a bracket from the normal tail light mounting on a CJ to hold this.
Jeep TJ / LJ Side Mount License Plate Mount w/ Light
1997 - 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ Side Mount License Plate Mount w/ Light
- City
- Landing
- State
- NJ
That rubber wedge at the latch has been obsolete for a decade or more, I can't figure out why they don't make an aftermarket on it either. Only good used and the rare NOS find remain at this point...
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
Thank you, Eric! You wouldn’t happen to have a really nice one would you? Mine is, well, sort of crusty.
Jeckhart85
New member
- City
- York
- State
- Pa
what center console is that?Looking good!!! You already know what I'm gonna say
View attachment 89420View attachment 89420View attachment 89422
- City
- Landing
- State
- NJ
Yes I will have a look..I'm sure there is one here we can trade some Beers for...
It's the standard cheapie with the cupholder & 6-pack cooler insert. The guy I bought the Jeep from had an s'Pod switch panel fit to it & had it custom upholstered.
Attachments
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
Finally got back at it. I tackled the drive-by-wire pedal assembly. I had a pedal assembly from a early 2000’s Silverado. Every time I do one of these it seems to come out a bit better. I ended up cutting the pedal arm into 3 pieces, and inverting the center piece so the pedal angled to the left. Many cut/tack weld/fit cycles were involved here. I wanted the pedal to be a bit lower than the brake, have full swing, and clear the carpet. I finally hit on the finished combination and finish welded it. I ended up using a spacer for the top mount, it bolts through one of the pre-threaded holes in the firewall. On the lower edge I cut and then bent the backing plate to follow the firewall contour. Secured the bottom with 2 bolts. I’m pleased with the finished product. 
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
Put the Summit delivery to good use. After installing a new water pump, I started on the under dash plumbing. First step was to size the a/c lines. Once the length and angle was correct, I wrap tape around the ends and draw witness lines so the fittings crimp on at the correct angle. There’s no twisting the lines once they’re made. 
Next step is to crimp the ends on the lines. I have a Mastercool crimper that does a great job. It was a bit pricey but I bought it back in my hot-rod building days... anyways, first make sure the hose is seated in the fitting ( there’s a small hole at the base to check through). Then with the appropriate size dies, crank the tool down and presto- it’s done!
All that’s left is lubing up the o-rings and tighten them in place! Having a “custom” line wrench helps.
Next, heater hose. Much easier. Cut and clamp.
Here’s a couple pics of the crimping tool. I was paying $20 a crimp before I got this. Well worth it if you’re doing more than one system. 
Now I’m waiting on more parts- adapters for the Wilwood proportioning valve and radiator mounts.
Next step is to crimp the ends on the lines. I have a Mastercool crimper that does a great job. It was a bit pricey but I bought it back in my hot-rod building days... anyways, first make sure the hose is seated in the fitting ( there’s a small hole at the base to check through). Then with the appropriate size dies, crank the tool down and presto- it’s done!All that’s left is lubing up the o-rings and tighten them in place! Having a “custom” line wrench helps.Next, heater hose. Much easier. Cut and clamp.Here’s a couple pics of the crimping tool. I was paying $20 a crimp before I got this. Well worth it if you’re doing more than one system. Now I’m waiting on more parts- adapters for the Wilwood proportioning valve and radiator mounts.
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
I had thought about that. But- none of this will be visible once the dash is on, and these are easily serviceable in awkward positions. Now under the hood I’ve been looking into those Gates heat shrink clamps. Although, those have zero serviceability. I have no problem with hose clamps, they just all have to be aligned and pointing the same way when they are visible.
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
I have been asked why I didn’t just fill in the cowl vent since I’m not using it. Because I really needed to get in there to run the duct work. Would have been next to impossible without the access. I’ve done that on hot rods before and it sucks to say the least.
Years back someone produced a cowl vent block off plate that was thick ball milled aluminum. Sort of like the stock vent but without the holes. Anybody know of one of those available?
The third vent will be one of the Vintage Air plastic 180* tubes. It will line up perfectly with the dash vent.
Years back someone produced a cowl vent block off plate that was thick ball milled aluminum. Sort of like the stock vent but without the holes. Anybody know of one of those available?
The third vent will be one of the Vintage Air plastic 180* tubes. It will line up perfectly with the dash vent.
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
Built the defroster duct adapter. The Vintage Air unit has 2 ducts for defrost, 2” in diameter each. There’s no way the factory plastic piece would work, or clear. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures while building. I took two stubs of thin wall 2” tube, squashed them to oval shape, and welded them to a piece of sheet with the proper openings cut out. Painted and added a thin layer of self adhesive foam for a seal. Drilled a hole for a center screw for support. Installed and done. After pics-
I used the block-off plate from Motobilt.