Hi. Been a long time since I've been here. Here is a short update with a couple questions. Project 1985 Scrambler. I purchased in 2002+-. Really good shape for a clean up and restore. I disassembled and placed in storage because I had another project (1986 Jaguar xjs v12) I needed to finish. Well many years later I finally finished that and now I can go back to the Scrambler. I have had the frame sand blasted and no signs of rust or frame damage thinking Eastwood rust encapsulator. Body / tub no damage. Appears original color respray at some point. Thinking strip to bare metal and spay (probably original dark honey metallic). Now this not a full blown bring back to original build nor a rock crawler. My Jaguar build was (I love the car but they didn't build it right so I tried to fix that). Same with this just want to improve where they couldn't. Thoughts on under body and interior? leaning towards just paint as factory.
Well finally start building
- Thread starter nib
- Start date
- City
- Galivants Ferry
- State
- SC
Original paint was acrylic enamel probably.
Everyone does base coat clear coat now.
Cost are about the same.
Everyone does base coat clear coat now.
Cost are about the same.
Hey
Lots of time cleaning and bead blasting (Great tool). Painted frame (Eastwood Rust Encapsulater used on other projects and been very happy).
New items brought in:
SSBC rear brake disk conversion.
SS brake lines Classic tubing
T176 rebuild Novak
Paint supplies Eastwood
Moser one piece rear axle
Bearing / seal kits front and rear
Front calipers
Duel diaphragm booster / proportioning valve Dave's customs
Divorce papers Citrus county
Lots of time cleaning and bead blasting (Great tool). Painted frame (Eastwood Rust Encapsulater used on other projects and been very happy).
New items brought in:
SSBC rear brake disk conversion.
SS brake lines Classic tubing
T176 rebuild Novak
Paint supplies Eastwood
Moser one piece rear axle
Bearing / seal kits front and rear
Front calipers
Duel diaphragm booster / proportioning valve Dave's customs
Divorce papers Citrus county
Attachments
Well the brown Santa and Felx have been stopping by. Now I have a couple issues besides empty check book.
My 8 had a shackle reversal kit on it when I bought it. Folks (some) said bad idea go with a YJ springs or even better OMU. The issue I have is when the reverse shackle was installed they cut off the front rear spring perch/hanger and bored a hole with welded sleeve through the frame. Hole in frame is not a problem but now should I recreate a stock hanger (what dimensions?) and weld in place or go use the reverse shackle stuff?
My 8 had a shackle reversal kit on it when I bought it. Folks (some) said bad idea go with a YJ springs or even better OMU. The issue I have is when the reverse shackle was installed they cut off the front rear spring perch/hanger and bored a hole with welded sleeve through the frame. Hole in frame is not a problem but now should I recreate a stock hanger (what dimensions?) and weld in place or go use the reverse shackle stuff?
Attachments
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Awesome build, thanks for sharing it. (Also want to see the Jag!)
I am one of the "no shackle reversal" folks, but you're going to get a ton of people who have them and love them. The arguement for me (other than the brake "dive" on road) was that when trail riding, the suspension is wanting to pull away from any rock you try to climb when shackle reversed, while the suspension pushes the wheel into the obstacle when stock.
That said, if I were in your situation, not building a wheeling Jeep and already having the reversal in place, I'd simply go with it and deal with the brake dive. (Suspension compressing all around when you hit the brakes hard since everything pivots the same direction now). Your choice of suspension will play into how much you feel that.
For the record, there's nothing saying you can't go with OME or YJ springs still, you'll just mount them the other way around and have to get shackles that work with the wider springs. I would NOT run CJ-width springs, particularly if you're tying to "fix" what the factory didn't do right. The CJ width springs were too narrow.
In a build as nice as you're doing. I'd throw some temporary springs in, get it built and then get your corner weights on the wheels and call Deaver or Alcan to order custom springs. They'll want to know that you're shackle reversed and would get you into a set that's properly done for your setup. Just my
Looking forward to following along (and I hope the divorce papers was a joke
)
I am one of the "no shackle reversal" folks, but you're going to get a ton of people who have them and love them. The arguement for me (other than the brake "dive" on road) was that when trail riding, the suspension is wanting to pull away from any rock you try to climb when shackle reversed, while the suspension pushes the wheel into the obstacle when stock.
That said, if I were in your situation, not building a wheeling Jeep and already having the reversal in place, I'd simply go with it and deal with the brake dive. (Suspension compressing all around when you hit the brakes hard since everything pivots the same direction now). Your choice of suspension will play into how much you feel that.
For the record, there's nothing saying you can't go with OME or YJ springs still, you'll just mount them the other way around and have to get shackles that work with the wider springs. I would NOT run CJ-width springs, particularly if you're tying to "fix" what the factory didn't do right. The CJ width springs were too narrow.
In a build as nice as you're doing. I'd throw some temporary springs in, get it built and then get your corner weights on the wheels and call Deaver or Alcan to order custom springs. They'll want to know that you're shackle reversed and would get you into a set that's properly done for your setup. Just my
Looking forward to following along (and I hope the divorce papers was a joke
)Yes. divorce papers a joke. She is really quite supportive. I have purchased the CJ to YJ spring kit from Rocky Road (with OMU springs). The spring reversal kit was installed by the PO (AMC dealer) 20 years ago. Not sure of the brand but looks like it could be M.O.R.E /Mountain off-road. The reversal front mount is YJ width the rear mount is a sleeve they installed in the frame. I need to find new bushings and the correct shackles Mountain off-road seems to have what I'll be looking for.Awesome build, thanks for sharing it. (Also want to see the Jag!)
I am one of the "no shackle reversal" folks, but you're going to get a ton of people who have them and love them. The arguement for me (other than the brake "dive" on road) was that when trail riding, the suspension is wanting to pull away from any rock you try to climb when shackle reversed, while the suspension pushes the wheel into the obstacle when stock.
That said, if I were in your situation, not building a wheeling Jeep and already having the reversal in place, I'd simply go with it and deal with the brake dive. (Suspension compressing all around when you hit the brakes hard since everything pivots the same direction now). Your choice of suspension will play into how much you feel that.
For the record, there's nothing saying you can't go with OME or YJ springs still, you'll just mount them the other way around and have to get shackles that work with the wider springs. I would NOT run CJ-width springs, particularly if you're tying to "fix" what the factory didn't do right. The CJ width springs were too narrow.
In a build as nice as you're doing. I'd throw some temporary springs in, get it built and then get your corner weights on the wheels and call Deaver or Alcan to order custom springs. They'll want to know that you're shackle reversed and would get you into a set that's properly done for your setup. Just my
Looking forward to following along (and I hope the divorce papers was a joke
