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Got the passenger side front hard line installed tonight. Not as much as a PIA as I thought. Original line unclipped, fairly easy to pull it up and out the front. Quick reference picture for me, this brake line runs under the PS lines. Removed the front frame cover, grill body mount and...

Ok, time for the PIA passenger side front hard line. This little Phillips head screw can be fun to remove! Came out no problem. Two clips that hold this line to the frame, front cross member, under the radiator. I used a flat screw driver and hammer to pop the line upward and out of the...

And just for @bigwalton, not a tree, but close, @Bad Karma favorite Harbor Freight trailer/ mobile paint booth!!! Primed and painted the plate, because it just wouldn't be a Spankrjs project without painting something!! Back to the proportions valves last stuck fitting, bolt cutters to cut...

Close up of the wrench around the fitting, no bueno. Jumping to the other valve to master cylinder line, I need to remove this clip that holds it to the steel plate that the proportioning valve attaches to. Yep, that bolt head is fun to get to!! Hammer and punch will not work here to cut...

Pictures and narrative are going to bounce around some, got a pretty good amount of work completed and no collateral damage, so happy about that. Thought about how to cut the old brake lines in place, without throwing sparks around. Pretty tight area to work in, quick experiment, worked...

Can't remember exactly, but the factory used some brackets like that down low on the passenger side to route the "charging/starting" portion of the harness. There also are some brackets like that on the driver side, valve cover, over the intake/exhaust manifold to route the "feedback carburetor"...

Too nice a weekend to stay cooped up in garage underneath the Green Scrambler all weekend long!

Decided to swap out the two lines that run from the master cylinder down to the proportioning valve next. Next pictures are just reference shots for me. Lots of zip ties! I have swapped these lines out before, on my red Scrambler, when I swapped from manual brakes to power brakes...

Started at the rear axle and worked my way forward. Rear axle mounted lines were easy enough, and surprisingly the long line from the proportioning valve to the rear flex line was easy to change. Pretty good match. Wasn't even that bad snaking it behind my fuel injection plumbing back here...

So I could have just bled out the brakes and called this job finished, but nothing is ever that easy. When I was taking the brakes apart I noticed the fluid was pretty nasty. Partially my fault, I haven't flushed out or even messed with the brakes in quite a few years. The other issue, these...

Time to reassemble the drum brakes. Certain parts are specific to a certain side. One side components. Note to myself so I keep it straight. The self adjusters have a stamp on them below the removable end. The hardware kits come with two different length pins, CJ's use the shorter...

Repeat for the other side, finished. Quick note about the centering block used with the original two piece axles. In the picture below, you can see how far the Moser axle shaft splines into one of the differential side gears. Not a lot of splines showing past the end of the axle shaft...

Pressing the axle down through the new bearing. I then remove the old split lock ring, press on the new lock ring. Pressed on. You might notice a slight gap and think the lock ring is not pressed all the way down. This is normal. With the ring pressed all the way down there will...

Time to press the bearings on to the axle shafts. I lube up the shaft where the seals/bearings ride with some grease/oil mixture. I reinstalled the outer metal dust shields next. I think this parts main function is to protect the outer axle seal from damage when you are messing with the drum...

Got home late today, but did at least manage to finish cleaning the packing grease out of the new bearings, then packed them with my favorite wheel bearing grease. Stored the freshly packed bearings inside plastic bags for now, hope to get these bearing pressed on the axle shafts tomorrow...

If those are the SSBC rear calipers you have them on correctly. There are two bleeder screw per caliper, you use the upper screw to bleed the brakes. Those calipers are used on a certain year Ford Mustang (rear), lot's of non-US market Ford sedans. I lost one of the parking brake return springs...

Using a caliper to measure the "little bit ". I'm within spec, so good to go. I will check this measurement in several places. Don't be surprised is the measurement varies a little bit from spot check location to spot check location. The PIA part, potentially, but necessary: IF the bearing...

Installed the Moser bearing spacers next. These pieces are the back stop for the axle bearings, preventing the bearings from riding too deep in the axle housing. The raised lip/edge faces the outside of the axle tube, like so. I wiped a little oil around the inside of the axle housing, used...

Cleaned up the outer axle housing ends tonight. This housing is in great shape. No evidence of a spun bearing. Two things to note: 1) The inner chamfer inside the tube, this is what the inner seal must be installed against. 2) There is a slight "step" in this area of the housing, it appears...

A little more piddling around tonight. Cleaned some parts. Contents of the Moser bearing and seal replacement kit. Note - this stuff has some type of oil/grease coating on it, I reckon to stop corrosion. I'll do a step by step install once I get done with all the prep work. For now...